vmipacman
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2014
- Location
- Virginia, USA
I like using a spiral boring approach on deep accurate holes. But still sometimes get taper (from deflection). I'm not really sure why though since I would expect even a dulled cutter would have such little loading a dulled corner wouldn't matter. Replacing with a sharp tool does the trick though.
Tonight I'm putting a 2" diam hole, 3" deep in 1018 using a 1" 4-fl HSS cutter 4" lg. Using a toolroom style bedmill, not very rigid, its a slow process but only 4 parts. After roughing in the hole and leaving .02 on the wall I spiral down in .02" steps. Disappointed to find a .017" taper from top to bottom. I know the cutter is dullish, but all the corners are still there. surface finish is good, and with such little loading I expected a straight hole even with a dull tool. Wouldn't the tool deflection be exactly the same at the top of the hole as at the bottom since the length of engagement is just the .02 from the top to the bottom?
The question is whether spiral boring is indeed the best chance of success when hole size matters? Or some other CNC strategy?
Looks like ill be boring these
Tonight I'm putting a 2" diam hole, 3" deep in 1018 using a 1" 4-fl HSS cutter 4" lg. Using a toolroom style bedmill, not very rigid, its a slow process but only 4 parts. After roughing in the hole and leaving .02 on the wall I spiral down in .02" steps. Disappointed to find a .017" taper from top to bottom. I know the cutter is dullish, but all the corners are still there. surface finish is good, and with such little loading I expected a straight hole even with a dull tool. Wouldn't the tool deflection be exactly the same at the top of the hole as at the bottom since the length of engagement is just the .02 from the top to the bottom?
The question is whether spiral boring is indeed the best chance of success when hole size matters? Or some other CNC strategy?
Looks like ill be boring these