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Tooling suggestion for this job

cuttergrinder

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 16, 2007
Location
Salem,Ohio
Here is a cross section of a brakewheel for an overhead crane. We make quite a few of these ranging from 10" diameter to 30" diameter. Most are cast but some are made from billet ductile iron if no pattern is available for a particular size. Even the cast ones need machined all over to true them up to help with balance. Getting a tool back in there where the radius meets the hub is sometimes a challenge and we sometimes get chatter. Any suggestions on tooling to get back in the radius area.

brakewheel.png
 
when face grooving tools dont fit or work,we always found it useful to use round inserts in a square tool and mount them onto a extended bar. pic is just an example you can get round inserts with or with out holes and from 3/16 dia 1/4" 1/2" dia etc etc
we would drill and pin holes in the holder to hold onto a bar that fits in your tool holder for extra length.
you can also get right hand and left hand round insert holders. we generally kept the center ones in stock cause we always had to make out own tooling.
if you make a few bars to hold the insert holder you can just swap the insert holders from job to job.

we would rough everything it with boring bars then blend the parts that a boring bar couldnt reach.

b0f13305-b85e-4c37-8d3a-28fed07b5aa5.jpg
 
I used to make shit similar to this. I took a 1/4" radius stick tool and whacked the business end off then stuck it on a piece of round so I could use a ID boring bar block station. I cleared it over at the spark mill.

There's probably something off the shelf that'd be the ticket but I don't know off the top of my head.

You'll have to push that radius tool kinda hard to bust the chip or you'll have a stringy nightmare ball of shit hanging off it.

Brent
 
Here is a cross section of a brakewheel for an overhead crane. We make quite a few of these ranging from 10" diameter to 30" diameter. Most are cast but some are made from billet ductile iron if no pattern is available for a particular size. Even the cast ones need machined all over to true them up to help with balance. Getting a tool back in there where the radius meets the hub is sometimes a challenge and we sometimes get chatter. Any suggestions on tooling to get back in the radius area.

brakewheel.png


I would personally start with a boring bar until you cant get any further, then if possible some live tooling with a rounded milling tool.
if not some button inserts will work well for the finishing passes on the curves.

also starting on the left half, then the right half will help as you can chuck on the center finished diameter for the deeper milling.
 
What are you currently using?

That 9.5" depth is a concern. Maybe look into Sandvik Devibe bars.

As for tool geometry, probably 35-degree VCMT/VNMG bars with the inserts at the correct clearance angles, and you'll need both LH and RH.
 
We have never made one this big on a cnc lathe. We never had a cnc big enough until now. We have made them on a Monarch 50" NN engine lathe and we used a 4" boring bar with an angled 1/2" brazed tool but we could turn the compound on the lathe to get down in the radius. The smaller ones we machine on smaller Mazak cnc lathes and just cut the end off of a dnmg tool and welded it to a length of round stock that fits in the boring bar holders. We do tend to get a little chatter with these but the smaller lathes can only accept a 2" boring bar. We have a bigger leadwell lathe now that will swing 32" and it will take 3" inch bars I believe.
 
Maybe adapt an Ultra-Dex MH16-SVJBR/L3 modular head to a boring bar. Or mill a pocket down the side of a bar to fit a16-SVJN (or 16-MDJN) stick tool. And like Orange said, you'll need a left and right.
 
I would look at Iscar, they have a bar that is designed specifically for wheels. Back in the late 90's I used it and turned some concept car wheels for the auto show a couple of times.
 








 
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