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  1. #21
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    Ditch the vise and get a ratcheting indexer with a 1 inch 5c collet or a super spacer with a 1 inch through bore and make up a tailstock if necessary.

    Horizontal & Vertical Standard Collet Indexer 5C with 3 collets | eBay

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    You could grip this if you made the "v" shallow say a 120degree inclusive shallow"V"-BUT:-Get a lump of whatever material you have spare.Aluminum will do.M/c it square-Drill ream the inch hole thro-Lay it flat-Drill/tap a small hole(for a grub screw) somewhere so when you nip the grub up it stops your job moving when you turn block to drill the second set of 3holes.So put your job in block/NIP THE GRUB UP/Drill the first set of 3holes/Loosen vise and TURN THE BLOCK/Now drill second set of 3 holes-Loosen grub,remove job-FINISHED Yes its overkill and but he,s under no pressure,a few yrs down line he will know this but he,s learning didn,t we all?

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    Isnt this part better for a lathe with a live tool? or at least a rotary table/trunion.

    then it would be one and done and not messing around with flipping it over.

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    The fact he’s asking this question leads me to believe he doesn’t have either of those...

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    Forgetting whether or not this is a good idea or not:

    To make the 1/2" radius just Drill a 1" hole through your jaw stock, bandsaw it in half and mill it to the width you want.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 706jim View Post
    Forgetting whether or not this is a good idea or not:

    To make the 1/2" radius just Drill a 1" hole through your jaw stock, bandsaw it in half and mill it to the width you want.
    You're no fun

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    Why can’t the holes go thru?
    Call the customer.

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    With a boring bar in a mill spindle, one could bore 1" into a pair of clamped together jaws. Yes, tram would be important. Likely a little smaller, or exact would be good. larger would not be good at all.

    Could even space them apart to get a 1" scalp in each, so leaving the open area for making the three holes.

    I would just make them of CRS bar stock for good enough and easy to make

    Could design the space between the jaws (the open) to be the gauge limit to position the 180* flip with using a pin of sorts to enter or bump a side.

    Could drill one jaw end long way 1/4 x 1" deep to hold a set screw held stop finger to be able to set the part end way position in order to locate the three holes.

    Perhaps only one fancy jaw and a flat jaw on the other side, really no need for the radius on both.

    *The L shaped jaw Gusta mentioned would be much the same and easier to make.

    Might wish to use a spotting drill if 3 holes location are a close spec.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobw View Post
    You guys are all going down a rabbit hole.

    Its a piece of round stock that gets three shallow holes in it (and then flip).

    Op1, Just grab the F'n thing!!!! This isn't rocket science. Hard jaws, parallel
    underneath and DONE!!!

    Op2, Multiple ways, but nothing as complicated as holding a round bar in round jaws
    for absolutely no reason.


    That is the most complicated and un-necessary way I've seen to hold a piece of
    round stock in a vise.
    Yeah, this thing^.

    Also, just make a split clamp indexing block to fit over the end of the shaft to give you your 180 degree flip.

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    a lot of good feedback in this thread, but just to dig in a bit, and to throw in a bit of a challenge, what if it was too long to put between clamping plates as had been suggested above (good idea for small parts!), too long or has an attached feature, like a flange or rotor, to go in an indexer and a T stock?

    no need to make anything, no need to bore a custom block with a setscrew, no need to indicate anything, just put it in the vise, V jaws if you prefer (tho it looks like cutting these small features wouldn't tweak it in regular jaws), two vises even better if you have them and it needs the support, then lightly screw a V block to it, and set an adjustable parallel to go between the table and the block, square things up and tighten. flip over, rotate till parallel slips under, tighten.

    granted, a regular adjustable parallel is a little dainty for the job, but with a little care, that should work, and if you had a lot to do, make a custom block

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    Even with having no vise at all, one might use the T slots on the mill table, and the table slots as the likes of a v block with using standard or custom made hold-downs. Yes, the part would be set and measured for making needed tolerance.
    A laying down L block made to fit in the mill table slot to give a part end locator, and with it having a pinhole to locate the 180* flip.

    Yes, consideration taken is the SS part surface would be adversely affected by the contact with the table or contact to the hold-downs.

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    Some part of the tolerance needs to be addressed by the starting finish on the bar. Is it mill finish? Or GP finish?

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    really no need for the radius on both.
    He didn't specify how big the slots are or how deep. There may be good reason to radius both sides. If lots of material gets removed clamping round things with square things makes egg-shaped, etc..

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    I have an old super spacer with a 3 jaw chuck on it I would use for this.

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    Im a noob with 2% skill in machining.

    Couldn’t you use 2 square collet blocks,
    1 block on each end.

    With square collet blocks you wouldn’t technically even need a vice, clamp the blocks directly to the table if needed.

    But if you used the vice then I would put the round stock in the blocks, clamp the blocks in the vice, tighten the blocks while in the vice.

    Set up a Dead stop on the vice end to locate the blocks against.

    Drill holes then just flip the work (with the blocks) 180 against the stop and drill the next set of holes.

    Make sure you don’t flip end over end or your dead stop will not locate the same

    Would this work? Or am I more drunk then I thought

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    really no need for the radius on both.

    He didn't specify how big the slots are or how deep. There may be good reason to radius both sides. If lots of material gets removed clamping round things with square things makes egg-shaped, etc..

    ---------------------
    I was speaking of a radius on both vise jaws. Only jaw one with a radius or a V would hold a round part horizontal for machining.

    Again the slots that the Op mentioned and then drew the part with three holes and no slots..

    Only the shadow knows.
    only the shadow knows radio - Bing video

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    Oh, the reason to need flip the part180*..is so he doesn't drill into the vise floor.
    He might consider to just make the part a little longer out of square stock. longer to add centers that would be cut off at the last operation. Run the part features in a straight-sided vise, then cuck it up between centers and turn it round, and chop ends to size.

    and surface grind the ends to finish size just to add some grinding fun.

    Yes, just joking

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobw View Post
    You guys are all going down a rabbit hole.

    Its a piece of round stock that gets three shallow holes in it (and then flip).

    Op1, Just grab the F'n thing!!!! This isn't rocket science. Hard jaws, parallel
    underneath and DONE!!!

    Op2, Multiple ways, but nothing as complicated as holding a round bar in round jaws
    for absolutely no reason.


    That is the most complicated and un-necessary way I've seen to hold a piece of
    round stock in a vise.

    What Bob said.......................sheesh KISS it...........................

    The rest of ya's..................I just love overcomplicated solutions to simple problems............................

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    Quote Originally Posted by bisctboy View Post
    I have searched the internet for vise jaws that will fit my need and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I am looking to securely hold a piece of stainless steel round bar so I can mill slots into it on its sides similar to what a cross-hole jig would do. I have attached a picture of what I need on a design that I did on Fusion 360 to better show what I looking for. I am brand new to CNC milling so excuse the green behind my ears...

    First, is there anything already out there that is similar to what I have in the picture? I can't use v blocks because they would cover too much of the circumference of the round bar.

    Second, is milling the jaws out of aluminum a bad idea since the part I am milling is stainless steel?

    Lastly, how would I mill out the round bar profile to match the 1" diameter and does my design look like it would provide enough clamping pressure to securely hold the round bar while milling it? I couldn't find a ball end mill that is 1" diameter.

    Attachment 307186

    Thanks,
    A: Finding specific jaws might be an issue, since most people would buy regular jaws and just mill the shape they need.

    A: Jaws out of Aluminum depends how many parts you would be making and how tough your cut will be. If you making <10 parts and easy cuts I would use Aluminum, anything more than that I'd probably consider Steel

    A: I would definitely not buy a 1" BALL Mill. If you have a CNC I would just program a 3D cut with a 1/2" Ball. Cost related.


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