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Parting Off and Transferring To Sub Spindle--Clearance
- Thread starter munruh
- Start date
- Replies 9
- Views 3,329
CNC Hacker
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2013
- Location
- Hartford, CT
Orange Vise
Titanium
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2012
- Location
- California
For solid material (not drilled or bored out in the center) I will leave the sub in home position and part off to X.050 or thereabouts, leaving the part hanging onto 0.050" of material, or as little as I can get away with.
Then I'll grab the workpiece with the sub, spin the sub at 200 RPM to twist off the workpiece, and continue business as usual.
The twistoff is important because the material is much weaker in torsion than in tension.
I like this idea....,but it does have a .500 diameter hole in it. Has anyone tried something like this with a machined hole in the bar?
Orange Vise
Titanium
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2012
- Location
- California
Still possible, but you won't be able to twist off the part with 0.050" material.
Taking a SWAG, I'd say maybe 0.005-0.010".
pcasanova
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2008
- Location
- vacaville ca
you could always pull it out as far as needed then after the parts done bring the sub back
over and use it to chuck up and push the bar back into the main.
over and use it to chuck up and push the bar back into the main.
gregormarwick
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2007
- Location
- Aberdeen, UK
I have a 6" chuck on the sub on our Doosan. I have one of the below that I use when space is "sort of" tight. I don't like it all that much as it's still quite wide (5/8") compared to the blade itself, because it accommodates a far wider blade than anyone would ever want to use in this situation IMO.
It basically "wraps around" the sub chuck and gets it's rigidity from it's height.
This one (and mine) is from EWS. I don't know if others make them.
When space is really tight, or when I need to part off very close to the sub face, I generally use a method along the lines of what Pcasanova wrote above. I've never tried the twist off method but it's on my radar to try now!
It basically "wraps around" the sub chuck and gets it's rigidity from it's height.
This one (and mine) is from EWS. I don't know if others make them.
When space is really tight, or when I need to part off very close to the sub face, I generally use a method along the lines of what Pcasanova wrote above. I've never tried the twist off method but it's on my radar to try now!
Scruffy887
Titanium
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2012
- Location
- Se Ma USA
I have done the twist off by accident. Worked good too. But for my use I stepped the outside of the sub jaws for clearance and use a standard blade type chip holder.
Ox
Diamond
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2002
- Location
- Northwest Ohio
I like the Iscar link.
We have built our own similar that uses Manchester components.
Mine will take left or right componants, so if I want to cut off a short part up tight to the sub, I just use the blade that looks that direction.
Just like the Iscar system is dooing.
But on another lathe, I just have 2 cut-off's.
One left and one right.
The one that looks at the sub is only in there part of the time tho.
Just pull the part out before cutting it off. (pull with the sub)
-----------------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox
We have built our own similar that uses Manchester components.
Mine will take left or right componants, so if I want to cut off a short part up tight to the sub, I just use the blade that looks that direction.
Just like the Iscar system is dooing.
But on another lathe, I just have 2 cut-off's.
One left and one right.
The one that looks at the sub is only in there part of the time tho.
Just pull the part out before cutting it off. (pull with the sub)
-----------------------
Think Snow Eh!
Ox
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