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What To Use For Coolant Lines/Nozzles On Turret

munruh

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Location
Kansas
I don't run into this very often, but what's the best system or way to extend a coolant nozzle on a CNC lathe turret? For example, I have a floating tap holder I am wanting to use and I need to get coolant out past it and shooting on the tap,
 
Lock-line or Cedarberg, ended up with both somehow, but once in a while it seems that only a 1/4" copper tube on a compression elbow will get the job done. Its nice to be able to squish the end to get the coolant where you need it. And they stay put better if a chip gets wrapped around it. My big Manchester cutoff tool has a dedicated copper line on it- if ya open the door at the wrong moment, it gets ya right in the crotch. No way I could get a plastic line around the tool block and pointed down the blade and have it stay put.
 
but once in a while it seems that only a 1/4" copper tube on a compression elbow will get the job done. Its nice to be able to squish the end to get the coolant where you need it. And they stay put better if a chip gets wrapped around it.

This. we've pretty much given up on loc line in the lathes.
 
Lock-line or Cedarberg, ended up with both somehow, but once in a while it seems that only a 1/4" copper tube on a compression elbow will get the job done. Its nice to be able to squish the end to get the coolant where you need it. And they stay put better if a chip gets wrapped around it. My big Manchester cutoff tool has a dedicated copper line on it- if ya open the door at the wrong moment, it gets ya right in the crotch. No way I could get a plastic line around the tool block and pointed down the blade and have it stay put.

Our lathe turret has little jets with positional balls to direct where it squirts (Dorian indexer). When we want more control, we wedge a copper tube in the jet and rubber-band the tube to the holder.
 
YUP- those directional balls are nice- not sure what size yours are. but if big enough, get some extras and drill and tap them 1/8" pipe and you can easily attach tubes etc to them.
 
Does anyone have any products/Tricks that work with the mazak style U-Drill / Boring bar holders with the rotating ball that has a thread on the inside?

While on the topic of floating tap holders, does anyone to an M1 and apply any special tap fluid or is everyone successful tapping stainless and titanium with typical coolants like Blaser 2000 universal?

Thanks!
 
I drilled out a few of the bass ball nozzles that came with my machine and soldered pipes into them.
You could probably also just take brass screws, drill them out a bit and solder pipes on those that you can screw on and off.
 
Does anyone have any products/Tricks that work with the mazak style U-Drill / Boring bar holders with the rotating ball that has a thread on the inside?

While on the topic of floating tap holders, does anyone to an M1 and apply any special tap fluid or is everyone successful tapping stainless and titanium with typical coolants like Blaser 2000 universal?

Thanks!

If it's what I'm thinking of, the QPM people linked above have direct replacements that have copper line attached to them.
 
I use a mix of loc line, and copper tube "lollipops" and coolant thru's. loc lines are good for parting tools and mdt tools, I like to put a Y in so I can run a nozzle pointing from both the top and bottom. coolant thru on my cnmg rougher and dnmg finisher, and some small boring bars. I remember seeing an ad for er collets with a coolant jet hole for drills. and have wanted to give them a try but I don't remember what the brand was. for the original question if that tap holder lives in that spot I would use a lollipop type as they dont get knocked out of position as easily as loc line.
 
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I remember seeing an ad for er collets with a coolant jet hole for drills. and have wanted to give them a try but I don't remember what the brand was.

How is that in improvement over just the std slots in the collet?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Getting the coolant lines all dialed in on a CNC lathe seems to always take a lot of time, and it can aggravate the hell out of me...[emoji23]

ToolCat Greg
 
I liked the balls, then I made my own with a nozzle extended from the ball shape, with splayed nozzles, tapped nozzles, small hole nozzles, 45° bent nozzles, long nozzles, short nozzles, etc. They're easy to get in there, adjust and all have different applications.

R
 
I have been using brass flare fittings and copper tube in 1/4 and 3/16 in. Very cheap and stays put. I also made some bullet nose front-1/4 npt back brass fittings that i can drill holes in or slot at whatever angle suits.
 
How is that in improvement over just the std slots in the collet?



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I think the coolant concentrated into a couple of thru passages would squirt out farther. I dont have high pressure so with a regular collet it just flows out not much past the collet face.
 
Does anyone have any products/Tricks that work with the mazak style U-Drill / Boring bar holders with the rotating ball that has a thread on the inside?

Yes. We plugged those holes with bolts, and drilled/tapped new holes in the blocks that intersect with the internal coolant holes, and tapped them 1/8 pipe. We usually plug one side, and install push-lock fittings in the opposite side. U drills get mating push-lock fittings & plastic push-lock hose. The hose stays with the drill when we swap them out.

For boring bars, we simply position the push-lock hose in a good spot to get coolant to the insert, and then wrap the hose to the boring bar with electrical tape. Again, the hose stays with the tool when we swap it.


Coolant.jpg



FWIW - Those holders supplied with the machine are horrible. I desperately would like to replace them with some better engineered split/pinch style blocks.


Also, I hate coolant :ack2: with a passion :mad5:, and just wish I could everything dry...
 








 
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