Don't have specifics on that handle.
Some clues.....If the stationary portion of the handle is clear of the rotating part and there are no flats on the exposed OD then its pretty safe that its not threaded......
Further don't believe that the stationary portion is fit in a through hole in the ball....that would require finishing the curve with the shaft in place, and that 's not how that ball was formed...
So i believe that the shaft is pressed into the ball in a blind hole.....
The rotating part often is made with a groove in its bore up toward the end. The shaft is also made with a groove (same position along its length as the handle)
On assembly a split ring of spring wire ("C") is pushed over the shaft and allowed to snap into the groove in that shaft its a loose fit in the groove..The wire diameter of the ring is such that when in the groove its OD
is somewhat larger than the shaft OD.....
Then the shaft is forced into the handle bore which in effect compresses the ring......The handle is pushed onto the shaft till the ring snaps into the groove in the handle, thus retaining it, but allowing it to turn.
Long story short, these types of handles are generally not removable......Sometimes one can force the handle off the shaft, but it all depends on the internal shape of the groove and ring and how they fit together...
I have great success using "Scotch Brite" wheels for my buffer...They will do a nice job smoothing and removing rust and corrosion and will leave a nice finish if you are careful with the way the part is manipulated
past the wheel surface,,,,,These wheels come is various grits from very fine to quite aggressive...
Holding the wheel at an angle to the axis of rotation for the handle will allow the handle to rotate by wheel contact...changing the attack angle can produce some nice swirl patterns in the part....clean and consistent.
Cheers Ross