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Adapter for MT3 tools in FP1

MikeLDN

Plastic
Joined
Jul 4, 2020
Adapter for MT3 tools on FP1

I have an FP1 with MT4.
Most of my tools are MT3, with "MTB" type - M12 to screw in the drawbar (pic 1).
What is the good way to make an adapter, safe to use and easy to extract?
I was thinking to use MT4 to MT3 adapter (pic 2), cut the top and then make some joining part for drawbar.

Any help appreciated...
MT3_MTB.jpgMT4_MT3.jpg
Thanks
 
I do a lot of that on my FP1, usually because I want to use a reamer with an MT3 or MT4 shank. Take the draw bar out. Pretty simple just remove the pin at the top and unscrew the stop and the draw bar falls out. The tang on an MT4 won't fit, you already know that. But you can buy an MT4-MT3 sleeve that doesn't have the tang. Super cheap on ebay. I never bothered making an adapter to the draw bar, I just use a long bolt or threaded rod from the top into the tool I want to hold. Actually reamers don't generally use a draw bar, I just jam them in like on a drill press.
 
Thank you.
Do you have a problem that sometimes sleeve remains in the head and only tool is removed?
I'm not sure how it could be pushed from above, only using some curved bar?
 
How about buying a MT4 blank arbour and turning threads on both ends for a drawbar / adaptor thread and an extraction nut on the other end. That could be bored out and reamed MT3.

..Maybe add a 2nd one without a fitted drawbar thread adaptor so you can push any tools out by screwing a bolt in.
 
Cut the tang off the Morse #3 sleeve.
Face and tap drill through for M20 thread.
Thread the ID of the sleeve at teh small end.( 20mm thread should clear the ID of the small end taper)

Install the sleeve and your tool.
Make draw bar long enough to reach and accept the M16 thread on the end of your tool.

To remove:
Use the draw bar to eject the tool.
If the Morse #3 sleeve remains you need an extractor.

Make a steel bridge piece shaped liker a"U" with a hole drilled through in the center of the "U" to clear a 20mm bolt.
The legs of the "U" to be just wider than the OD of the big end of your sleeve and long enough to provide clearance to the face of the sleeve..

Remove the draw bar
Fit a bolt through the "U" and thread it into the sleeve. Tighten the bolt and the sleeve will be withdrawn.....
Could substitute a thick washer and a piece of thick tube in place of the "U" piece....

Cheers Ross
 
For what it's worth....

My FP1 only gets used (mostly by students and mentors) with MT4 "drawbar" tooling. You have to hunt, but such things can be found on ebay etc. I made a different drawbar (be sure the copy the shoulder so that unscrewing the drawbar will knock out the tool)

The next trick is to find something called an MT4 collet. They appear on ebay from time to time, in a slightly weird set (missing one size you'd expect) but including key sizes. The most key size is the shaft of a Tormach or similar TTS style shaft. I ground down the end of one of these collets so the TTS tooling flange will seat against the spindle nose, might have had to grind some of the pilot off as well. What does all that get me? You can buy brand new TTS holders (ER collets, sidelocks, etc.) in whatever quantity you want (at least in normal times) and they swap in and out of the collet with OK for these purposes repeatability. And true MT4 drawbar tools are at least as easy to find as the somewhat weird Deckel MT4 with odd stud tooling. So my machine is completely switched over.
 








 
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