Deckel FP1 testing and restoration?
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  1. #1
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    Default Deckel FP1 testing and restoration?

    I just got a Deckel FP1 basically for free, minus the cost of renting a uhaul trailer to pick it up, and the cost of gas for driving across a few states. It belonged to an engineer who died and it seems to work (motor/spindle rotates). It also came with multiple heads, table attachments, tons of collets and some weird looking endmills, etc. However, it is really dirty and grimy and I am wary of running it too much if the lubrication inside is not good. No rust, just looks like a lot of oil and dirt. Here are some pictures (table removed for transport)
    1.jpg
    2.jpg

    I was looking for advice on several things:

    1. How much should I need to tear this down to be able to trust that the internals are healthy and will be good in the future? All the handles seems to actuate fine, although one has slightly more friction than the others.
    2. What would be the best process to clean this? My idea is using acetone all over to get rid of the exterior oil, then try to clean the sump best I can with acetone and a vacuum, then start taking pieces off, using paint stripper, masking, priming, and repainting each one.
    3. Are there any translated FP1 manuals? I was only able to find the german one.
    4. How should I go about oiling it? Do I really need to be pumping oil through the machine constantly if I don't expect to be machining too much? I saw that someone ran kerosene through the internal system for remove old lubricant before replacing the oil, should I do that?

    Thanks so much in advance!

    -Mike

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by theonlycobra View Post
    I just got a Deckel FP1 basically for free,... It belonged to an engineer who died and it seems to work
    That about sums it up.

  3. #3
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    Hi Mike,

    Welcome to the group!

    Quote Originally Posted by theonlycobra View Post
    It also came with multiple heads, table attachments, tons of collets and some weird looking endmills, etc.
    That's quite a score, congratulations!

    However, it is really dirty and grimy and I am wary of running it too much if the lubrication inside is not good.
    The oil and grease mixed with that dirt and grime have done a good job of preventing rust. It's very likely that the machine is in fine shape. These Deckel's can withstand tremendous abuse, it's one reason they have endured and are so sought after.

    Regarding internal lubrication, there is only one thing you need to understand. Did someone lubricate it with grease (WRONG) rather than oil (CORRECT). The machine has what appear to be grease nipples, but almost all of them are for oil. So (1) get a manual from the internet if you do not have one (2) study the lubrication points (3) remove the lubrication nipples and check that there is no grease inside. Also inspect the oil level windows, again to be sure they are not blocked with grease. If you find grease, you are going to have to spend many hours tearing down the support to remove that from inside. Lots of people here have gone through that and will hold your hand as needed.

    1. How much should I need to tear this down to be able to trust that the internals are healthy and will be good in the future? All the handles seems to actuate fine, although one has slightly more friction than the others.
    If no grease has been used, get the correct oils, lubricate as per the manual, and use it. Does your machine have solid bronze bearings for the horizontal/vertical spindles, or needle bearings? In the latter case, a regrease is a good idea but can wait until you have used the machine for a while.

    . What would be the best process to clean this? My idea is using acetone all over to get rid of the exterior oil, then try to clean the sump best I can with acetone and a vacuum, then start taking pieces off, using paint stripper, masking, priming, and repainting each one.
    Don't do all that now -- it is premature. Acetone will make a mess of the paint. Use WD40, scrubbrush, paper towels to get off the grime. Then USE THE MACHINE. After you have used it for tens of hours, you will become aware of any important issues or hidden problems. At that point, some teardown for repair/paint/geometry correction might be contemplated. But not before you have spent time using it.

    3. Are there any translated FP1 manuals? I was only able to find the german one.
    French and English ones are widely available. I have FP2 manuals but not FP1. Someone else here will help you.

    4. How should I go about oiling it? Do I really need to be pumping oil through the machine constantly if I don't expect to be machining too much?
    It's just a few CCs. The manual is clear, you need to get that, study it, and follow what is says.

    I saw that someone ran kerosene through the internal system for remove old lubricant before replacing the oil, should I do that?
    The manual recommends flushing the gearboxes with kerosene. Sure, you can do that, if the machine is low on oil. But if it's not too low, I would suggest just topping it up and using it. You can flush it later, after you've gotten some experience with it.

    First thing you should do Mike is get yourself the manual, and study it!

    Cheers,
    Bruce

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    Hallo everybody,

    I am in a very similar situation:

    1) I received a Deckel FP1 for free, I had only to pay for the weight of scrap metal, and the transportation.

    2) It was so dirty, I worked a lot to clean it. But one recommendation: DO NOT use aggressive solvents like aceton, thinner or similar. The paint is not strong enough. First I tried on invisible parts, but soon my wipe cloth became green, everything was clearly understood. Then I bought "TIX Grease Remover" from the local automotive shop. Not only it does'nt harm the paint but it also cleans faster, much faster!

    3)I saw the grease nipples and thought they were there to receive grease. The previous owner did use grease, but this was not a good idea, after reading the owner manual I had to dismantle parts, remove it and use the correct oil spec.

    4) I have the right owners manual for my machine (from your pictures, it seems to be exactly the same machine, especially when looking at the start/stop buttons and the handles for changing gears). The manual is in French, I can copy it if you want that. Remember that it is never too late to learn a second language!

    Regards,

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  6. #5
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    From my sewing machine repair days, don't start with Acetone! I suggest solvents should be used in an increasing order of strength, starting with paint thinner, or even soap and water. Then something like lighter fluid, then lacquer thinner (which could attack paint), and then finally, we would bring out the Acetone. DJ

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