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  1. #41
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    I found a relevant thread it seems, will read it closely:
    Painting preparation: keep the filler or sandblast it off?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisCA View Post
    I found a relevant thread it seems, will read it closely:
    Painting preparation: keep the filler or sandblast it off?
    Yup, that's me again.

    Having done it both ways (sandblast to bare metal or just sand smooth but leave filler and tight paint in place) I will no longer sandblast to bare metal unless there is no alternative.

    BUT in your case don't even think about painting yet. Do the following instead:

    (1) Get your machine working. Use it cautiously. Investigate odd things. Look for problems. Clean, lubricate, adjust. Get tooling. If something is broken or damaging the machine, try to fix it. Example: inching wheel in the back.

    (2) Once you have used it for some hours, put on an indicator and some straightedges and squares and investigate the geometry. Get an SK40 test bar. How accurate is it? Where is it worn? How is the spindle runout?

    (3) Now make a plan. Do you need to fix the geometry? Grease the spindles? Is there a noisy bearing or a gear that doesn't always engage properly? Are there places where the paint is so nasty that you can't do decent work? This is the first time that painting should even be considered.

    Bottom line: get the machine working with the minimum possible effort, and assess it's condition. Learn to use it. Paint comes last.
    Last edited by ballen; 10-31-2018 at 03:45 PM.

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  4. #43
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    Oh yes, I don't mean to say the first I will do is start painting it, but the way I work is I get an idea in my head and I will start researching it at once, even if it's for later.

    What I will do however is give it a good cleanup!

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  6. #44
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    Totally agree with Bruce, apart from one thing that can't allow me to feel calm with a new-to-me Deckel, and that's the lubrication of the spindles.
    If the machine is oiled and not greased all around, if you don't see coolant all over the place, in general if the machine seems well looked after then I'd feel safer to use it for a while with the spindles as they are. But if there is evidence that the previous users didn't care that much about the machine I wouldn't feel comfortable to use it for long without making sure that the spindles are properly lubricated. At least that's what I did in my case. (Luckily, when I took the spindles apart they were free from debris or coolant but grease was either incorrect or too old). And we've read here about machines left in the rain...

    BR,
    Thanos

    ps. There is a excellent post here by Ross describing the spindle overhaul

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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    Bottom line: get the machine working with the minimum possible effort, and assess it's condition. Learn to use it. Paint comes last.

    and it's working.
    There you have it.

    One of the best, least-effort, least-cost, and most germane of all possible "assessments" is the one a(ny) machine-tool can do FOR you.

    SHOW YOU how well it is working. Or where it is NOT.

    Let it speak first. You can apply the "Verdict" or "Last Word", later..

    Last edited by thermite; 11-01-2018 at 05:36 AM.

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  9. #46
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    I was told the transport company picked up the machine today. Then I spoke to the company about arranging a time and they said tomorrow, but fortunately the person I talked to reacted to me mentioning rolling the machine in and she wondered if I was taking about a truck with a tail lift. Apparently they would have sent me a truck straight from sweden without the ability to unload the thing.

    At least now they will load it on a truck with a tail lift and we'll arrange a time next week, no possibility to get it this week due to having to change trucks. But really what kind of private customer has his own loading dock?

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    The transport is according CMR And they dictate that the goods are unloaded by the reciever

    peter

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    I have never heard of that before, I doubt many others without experience with the transport business have. I have had multiple pallets delivered myself but as it was domestic, they have always come on a tail lift.

    Now this is getting into a part of my work. Hopefully the person who compiled the offer will take this and note it into their deviations handling system, make an analysis and recommended solution to prevent it re-occuring. In my view that would be to ask about delivery methods, in this exact case I would recommend adding a select box of possible delivery choices (tail lift, hiab, none, collect from terminal) to their offer form on their website.

    This is exactly the kind of situation we would log at my company and work to avoid since we don't want situations like these from simple misunderstandings. I don't think it's fair to expect a private indidvidual to know about CMR.

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    For sure, my experience is they always bring a truck with a lift, coming from Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands etc. I think the need to have a fork truck or crane would only be when you get over the weight limit of a lift gate (so at least 1.5 tonnes)
    L

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    I am afraid transport companies don't have the 'private individual' in their mind when planning transports...The companies they work with either have loading/unloading facilities, or are experienced enough to make necessary arrangements from the beginning
    Last edited by thanvg; 11-02-2018 at 08:48 AM.

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    I sent this feedback to the person who compiled my offer. Translated roughly.

    Thank you for your feedback. There is absolutely something to keep in mind, now that we also have the many private customers around the country, surprisingly many of them have access to a tractor. So when in a hurry I also miss out on asking all the right questions!
    *
    I also commented that perhaps we private individual customers are more demanding than commercial ones.

    All customers are demanding in different ways, private as companies. There are companies that are much worse than private individuals.
    So this company at least seems agreeable. I noticed they are ISO 9001 certified as is the company I work at (I helped develop the systems for this) and this includes the kind of thinking I mentioned re: finding deviations and anomalies in the workflow and addressing them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by whidbey View Post
    For sure, my experience is they always bring a truck with a lift, coming from Germany, Switzerland, the Netherlands etc. I think the need to have a fork truck or crane would only be when you get over the weight limit of a lift gate (so at least 1.5 tonnes)
    L
    Well my experience is different You were lucky then
    International transport is mainly with truck and trailer A tailgate ads weight so does cost fuel Most of these trailers do not have a tailgate You have to ask for it And it costs extra About €75,-
    Even inland transport I always ask for tailgate if I need one A tailgate is a additional service
    I always ask my customers if they have the abbility to unload

    Now this is getting into a part of my work. Hopefully the person who compiled the offer will take this and note it into their deviations handling system, make an analysis and recommended solution to prevent it re-occuring. In my view that would be to ask about delivery methods, in this exact case I would recommend adding a select box of possible delivery choices (tail lift, hiab, none, collect from terminal) to their offer form on their website.
    You are asking a lott You expect the seller to solve all your problems Why not bring it up to the second floor also ?
    Or shovel it into your barn over gravel
    You as a buyer has some responsibility too You have to give information too

    Peter

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  17. #53
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    The machine was delivered an hour ago. We were not able to wheel it into the intended place. Would not fit through the doorway unfortunately. I am planning to build a metal gantry crane, I believe it will be sorely needed. I am in fact wondering if I should reorganize the whole shop. Take the lathe out of the small room and move woodworking tools there instead. And keep th e metalworking machines in the bigger space, or dedicate half of the bigger space to metal working instead.

    But for now I will have to look over the machine. The X-axis seems stuck, can't move the handwheel and I don't dare to force it. The Z-axis also feels somewhat tight but I did not move it much either. Machine is very dirty and I have already begun cleaning it somewhat.

    The location missing inching wheel seems to be just fine though, the wheel is missing but nothing appears broken, I was able to turn it around by hand.














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    I got the Z-axis to move upwards but it's certainly not a smooth motion, I wonder if the ways are full of the same gunk that covers the machine, the locking lever (lever 17 in manual, page 7) for the Z-axis is not engaged as far as I can tell. It really seems to be all over and forms in places a solid layer that is hard to get off.

    The same applies for the X-axis, the lever (16, same page) next to the hand wheel is loose and hangs down, but perhaps something inside has gotten stuck in locked mode anyhow.

    The slide for the DROs X-axis is also bust:

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    There are two gibs on X and one gib on Z. Loosen them, that may help get things moving.

    The clearances in the ways are very tight. Once you get it cleaned up, everything will move OK. Be patient, study everything, don't use force.

    Is the X scale a Heidenhain LS803? 420mm or 520mm? I may have a spare.

    [EDIT]

    PS: if the read head from the scale is undamaged, save it, that has most of the value of the scale itself.
    Last edited by ballen; 11-08-2018 at 05:09 PM.

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    Thanks I'll check that out tomorrow after work, been a busy night tonight and I have get up before 6AM.

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    I started googling a bit and I found one of your threads, hah I am starting to see a pattern here. Perhaps I can salvage something of the scales, they seem to be very expensive so repairs seem to be worth attempting up to a point.

    I looked at ebay scale prices and it made my hair stand on end, so if that kind money is required to try and rebuild the DRO perhaps I am better off selling the parts that work and investing in a new chinese 3-axis DRO like what I see Stefan Gotteswinter uses.

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    Hi Dennis,

    good luck on cleaning, I wish that you end up with a very nice machine when finished!

    A few notes just to keep in mind:

    - I see that there is a gap between the X axis handwheel dial and the reference plate, there shouldn't be any. So, check that, they might have monkeyed something there which could make your X handwheel difficult to turn.
    - Regarding X lock, if I remember correctly there there is a beveled pin that the locking lever engages, pin rests against the lower gib. This could have been lost if they ever took it apart, hence the looseness of the lever.
    - On the visible portion of your X leadscrew I think I can recognize grime made of powdery material plus oil. In this case pay attention cleaning, it can be everywhere. Since you didn't have a mill prior to this, you have nothing to miss if you devote some extra days for cleaning. As Bruce said, get it working and have a look before investing much time and money, but don't use it too much if that nasty powder is all over the place.
    - Your rapid lever has been replaced by an extremely long shaft!

    Enjoy this, most of us don't have the chance to work ON a FP2 every day, have fun.

    BR,
    Thanos

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    I believe the reason the hand wheel gap is because of the two rings you can see in the last picture in my 2nd last post, they seem to be what keeps the hand wheel in place and they were loose, when I screwed them back in I found I could adjust the gap.

    I do not believe I will be actually milling on this machine in 2018, both money, time and an overly cautious nature will drag this out for a long time. I have not even started it yet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisCA View Post
    I believe the reason the hand wheel gap is because of the two rings you can see in the last picture in my 2nd last post, they seem to be what keeps the hand wheel in place and they were loose, when I screwed them back in I found I could adjust the gap.

    I do not believe I will be actually milling on this machine in 2018, both money, time and an overly cautious nature will drag this out for a long time. I have not even started it yet.
    So, if you adjusted the ring nuts to remove the gap it means that either the table or the screw moved, good thing, at least one of them is not stuck


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