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  1. #861
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    There is some initial flex I have not been able to get rid off despite all the extra stuff I've stuck on, not sure if it's the finger behind the gears or not that bends a little, I've considered welding a rib that spans the length of the pusher on the right side for stiffening it up.

    I cannot be sure it's just the 3rd gear as I have clamped all the gears back together for maximum space for the fingers that go behind the 3rd gear. I am able to push them apart again though using my small M8 spreaders I used before.

    I've gotten some 4mm grinding points and have thought I'd dedicate today to see if I can grind out the broken off drill. Honestly not sure what the reason is it's so stuck. I'm still waiting for the lapping compound I ordered.

    Also I meant to say I started work on it last weekend, been tacking on stuff all week.

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  3. #862
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    Managed to grind through the broken drill bit piece though there are still pieces left I can see, I made another extension to be able to get it all the way in.



    Ground down to a stub now. I am attaching new pieces using superglue and using heat to make them release when I need to replace one. It has worked well though it takes a while between switches.


  4. #863
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    Dennis, how is it going? We are all rooting for you. Cheers, Bruce

  5. #864
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisCA View Post

    Honestly not sure what the reason is it's so stuck. I
    My educated guess is that when the key failed and the gear spun, the surface of both the gear (ID) and the shaft(OD) got upset at the key slot,so that when the gear rotated it formed circumferential
    ridges and grooves in the mating parts...
    Think of this as having a series of snap rings on the shaft......
    Because there are likely more than one , the holding resistance can be substantial...To move things you have to generate enough force to make the steel move (plastic deformation)

    Don't think you are going to do that with the push "C" clamp tool you made.....
    Got to reduce the height of the ridges or enlarge the space they need to pass through to get the gear to move....this is why i suggested the lapping strategy...
    Its going to be slow, you have to be patient but i believe it will work in the end.

    Might need to refit the end bearings and mesh the offending gear, and use the drive motor to rotate the parts. Don't need to reinstall the cover, just position,by hand, the gears that will drive the problem gear.
    Leave the remaining gears disengaged....Be careful not to mesh more than one ratio at the same time......
    Make up your lapping "mix" , thin at first and load it into a squeeze bottle that you can use to squirt the slurry into the gear/shaft interface .....Use a length of hardwood to lever against the rotating gear and apply pressure
    parallel to the shaft applying pressure forward and rearward to in effect push sideways against the bumps and grooves.

    Cheers Ross

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    I've been working on that, by hand though. But I am otherwise engaged this week, so many other things, and a lot of things I've neglected in my focus on this. I've thought about motorizing the process as you mention.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisCA View Post
    I've thought about motorizing the process as you mention.
    Please take care not to get your fingers caught in the gearing. Nasty.

  8. #867
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    Maybe this has already been stated, but it seems to me you would be miles ahead by directing your time and energy to buying, begging, borrowing, building, or burgling a replacement shaft, and then removing the bad one destructively. Forget the "sunk cost" of your press tool, etc.

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  10. #868
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    I'm fully prepared for the idea that I have to destroy the shaft. But as I've written earlier, I want to rebuild the shaft in that case. Ideally I'd get it out as completely as possible. I have little to no hope of finding a spare shaft and if I did I believe it would probably cost more than having a replacement made by a shop.

    But I am also in no hurry and I will try to lap it and see if that helps.

    At any rate I think the shaft will need work afterwards even if I get it out in one piece. The key slot needs welding up and machining and probably the whole portion of the shaft needs to be welded and machined down again. The gears will also need some work I am thinking.

    But like I said I am really busy with other things at the moment. I haven't had time since sunday to look at the machine, for instance.


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