Deckel FP2 Aktiv maintenance and repair - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    I thought you had out the bevel gear There on the other side of the nut is a needle thrust bearing on a flat race on one side
    That is poor design too because the opposite side from the flat race has a split surface Therefore the needles tend to run on the highest part and wear real quickly

    To set the screws in the flange I set them the same all 3 measuring it with a hight gauge Assemble Measure endplay and adjust the 3 screws

    Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boat Brat View Post
    Yes, but you haven’t seen the screw! I have been trying to figure out what they have done to it. The majority of the thread flanks look fine, but in the middle third of the screw it looks like someone has gone over the tops of the thread with a coarse file.
    In the days before the DRO, it was important that these screw threads be very precise -- better than 0.01mm accuracy everywhere along the screw. Otherwise the positions that come from the handwheel dials are wrong.

    These days, since you will look at the DRO rather than the handwheel dial, it doesn't matter very much. I would suggest that you buy yourself one meter of Tr20x4 threaded rod (I think that's correct for Y, assuming you have a metric machine) and then either turn a new Y-axis lead screw or patch it in with a carefully cut thread and some loctite to the remainder of your current lead screw.

    A 1 meter bit costs 20 Euros Trapezgewindespindeln eingangig DIN 103 C15 gerollt Trapezgewindespindel | eBay .
    I think that might only be precise to 0.1mm, but I am pretty sure that you can find inexpensive Tr20x4 threaded rod that is precise to 0.03mm over this length (200mm). The cost is more-or-less the same.

    For example this one is good to 0.05mm over 300mm:
    Prazisions-Trapezgewindespindel RPTS TR 20X4 rechts C35/C45 1 Meter | eBay

  3. #43
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    I went even further than that. I bought a cheap TR20x4 tap from ali and made my own nuts
    These taps are surprisingly accurate in that initial backlach is even less than a original one from Franz and hold pretty good on bronze
    I was lucky perhaps

    Peter

  4. Likes AlfaGTA, ballen liked this post
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    Done same here although not using a tap...Did new nuts via thread milling , single point style on the FP4NC.
    My FP2,s have all been imperial....to get the correct move on the slide vrs. the dial you need 6 1/4 threads/inch

    No manual lathe that i own will do that, and a tap for that is a special ($$$+ time) ...so thread mill it was.
    Allows adjusting the fit though so the effort was not wasted. Made those nuts from 642 bronze...they last a long time.

    Cheers Ross

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    Hi Ballen, Peter and Ross.

    Although the bearing looked good you have convinced me to pull it again and fit a new one. The design is terrible not only is it riding on a thin face it is also crossing the end of a key way.

    Thanks for the tip on the stock threaded rod, it seems to be the way to go for a new screw. It doesn’t require modifications to the machine so if it dose not work nothing is really lost.

    Another slightly unfortunate design is the power feed to the Y, the bearings at the top are in a vertical housing with no oil drain. Any contamination that goes in there stays. Would have been easy in the design stage to make it a flow though.

  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlfaGTA View Post
    Done same here although not using a tap...Did new nuts via thread milling , single point style on the FP4NC.
    My FP2,s have all been imperial....to get the correct move on the slide vrs. the dial you need 6 1/4 threads/inch

    No manual lathe that i own will do that, and a tap for that is a special ($$$+ time) ...so thread mill it was.
    Allows adjusting the fit though so the effort was not wasted. Made those nuts from 642 bronze...they last a long time.

    Cheers Ross
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter from Holland View Post
    I went even further than that. I bought a cheap TR20x4 tap from ali and made my own nuts
    These taps are surprisingly accurate in that initial backlach is even less than a original one from Franz and hold pretty good on bronze
    I was lucky perhaps

    Peter
    A bit off topic here, but I always wondered: why would one buy a nut instead of make it? Apart from the imperial case that Ross mentioned, most machine nuts are large enough to bore and thread easily and end up with the fit you like. I mean, if you need a nut for your mill, most probably you already own a lathe...
    It always looked so strange that nuts for the Deckels are so expensive, when they are, relatively, simple in design.

    I guess someone might go for a bought nut if time is an issue...

    BR,
    Thanos

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    You want to try to make a TR20x4 nut 90mm long ?
    Shaft of the tool cannot be much thicker as 13mm
    Even worse on the Y-nut

    Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter from Holland View Post
    You want to try to make a TR20x4 nut 90mm long ?
    Shaft of the tool cannot be much thicker as 13mm
    Even worse on the Y-nut

    Peter
    Right...you mentioned TR20x4 but I still had it pictured as much fatter in my mind. Yeap, that's not trivial...
    If you can find a tap, it makes much sense

    BR.
    Thanos

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boat Brat View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the stock threaded rod, it seems to be the way to go for a new screw. It doesn’t require modifications to the machine so if it dose not work nothing is really lost.
    Exactly, it's at most a few hours of lathe work. I think Karl (CharlyDE on the forums here) had a source for these metric Acme screws with accuracy 0.03mm over 300 or 400mm. I suggest you ask him, as it probably does not cost much more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thanvg View Post
    Right...you mentioned TR20x4 but I still had it pictured as much fatter in my mind. Yeap, that's not trivial...
    If you can find a tap, it makes much sense

    BR.
    Thanos
    Aliexpress sells them for €35 I think
    Including shipping

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter from Holland View Post
    Aliexpress sells them for €35 I think
    Including shipping
    Thanks Peter

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    Hi All,

    Question, I have found the bearings directly behind the horizontal spindle have been greased, well at least the rear one. I’m assuming that these should not be greased? Oil in this area is a little minimal. Just wanted to check before flushing them out.
    Have attached a couple of pictures to show the area.
    d516e4b0-e663-422b-a06a-492b0d5982f4.jpg
    9494456b-cc56-4b54-b851-b83f562a50f1.jpg051e1e18-12b6-4495-8128-5d8459b05fc6.jpg

    Thanks.

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    So this is one of those things that you can't get wrong.
    Unlike the slides and screws. ball bearings in low lubricated locations (not the gear boxes) won't suffer from being greased....If teh bearing gets lots of oil the grease will be
    washed out, if not the grease will be fine.....
    Issue happens when you use double sealed bearings where they get splash oil...The seal will keep the amount of oil low , but enough will enter the bearing to mix the lubes...In this case you
    get neither.
    Cheers Ross


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