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Deckel FP2 OIL LEAK

hypersport

Plastic
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Can anyone help I have an oil leak from a Top Bevel Gear at the back of my Milling machine which has destroyed the drive belts and also covered the motor.
I would like to repair the leak but I don't know how it is removed or if there is a oil seal or o ring.
I would appreciate any advise.Regards
 

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I have never poked around that area. Is the oil coming from the headstock/ram area just above that gear? If I understand correctly, this is associated with the mechanism that brings power feed for Y up into the headstock/ram area, just below the Y-axis feed screw nut. Is that right?
 
Im not sure what you call it as the manual I have doesn't cover this area.It could be something to do with the rapid feed .There is a vertical shaft that runs behind the drive pulley from the L/H lower corner .It connects to a bevel gear that is aft and under the Long Gear at the top of the mill.There is fresh oil running down the shaft from that bevel gear which will fling off under operation .It is running down the shaft with the 2 pins in the picture .hope this helps
 
That shaft running slightly off vertical is the drive that powers the "Y" feed for the machine..
As i recall think there is a conventional spring garter lip seal there that runs on the extension of the shaft (where the pins are)
Bearings, seal and bevel gear are carried in a "carrier" that is held in place via a grub screw in the casting (slotted screw head)

Pretty sure everything comes out going up which means you have to remove the "Y" slide and the Hand wheel for the "Y" feed as well as the driven bevel gear, feed nut and if not mistaken the "Y" screw....


There is the chance that you can drive out the two pins on the upper part of the shaft....and slide the sleeve down , which will give clearance to get at the seal ...at the bottom of the carrier and not have to take anything
else apart.....Been in here years back so not too fresh on the details.....
Think i would go for removal of the pins first as going in from the top is lots of work....Maybe with the sleeve down the entire shaft can be lifted up and out (its on a simple key , don't think there are any snap rings or grub screws)

With the shaft out the carrier for the upper bevel gear could be pulled out going down..
Cheers Ross
 
What you are describing is the area I am thinking of. It is illustrated schematically in this image:

attachment.php


The vertical shaft brings the power feed up to the headstock, where it provides the power feed for the Y axis. Here is a less schematic image of that area:

attachment.php


I have not looked to see how this area is sealed, but as I recall the oil is meant to drain from this area back down to the gearbox. So it may be that what is wrong is that an oil drain hole is blocked with goo. In your shoes I would remove the headstock (this takes an hour if you have a lift and nothing is stripped/damaged) and the Y-axis nut, and look at this area from the top. That will probably show you what is wrong. If there is a seal, that should also give you access to it.

Perhaps Peter or Tien or Ross have a better idea of what is wrong, and can comment.

Cheers,
Bruce

[EDIT: Ross, I just saw your post. Removing the Y slide, the Y feed screw, and the Y handwheel does not take very long on these machines, if nothing is stripped or rusted or damaged. I put some details of the process here: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...w-deckel-fp2-build-1965-a-275599/#post2172225 ]
 
Thanks Ross I have had a close look at the gear assy from the top and It looks like the bore diameter is smaller than the gear so as you said it looks like it is removed upward. I can see the grub screw but I will start with your advise of removing the pins in the shaft and seeing if I can locate the lip seal. Regards Greg
 
Thanks for the schematic It is exactly where the problem is.I have removed the headstock and can see the bevel gear from the cavity .The mill has no damage that I can see just some very minor sludge in a few groves.I will start buy disconnecting the drive shaft and look for a seal .I will take some pictures and post them as I go.regards greg
 
Oil level is much lower than that
Perhaps its a good idea to see how much oil is in the gearbox

I have had a lathe once with the gearbox topped with oil

BTW I never had any luck removing those tapered pins in that shaft Much too tight
One should to remove the bearing on that horizontal shaft you see in the first picture
I now simply grind a piece off that flange holding the bearing so it can pass that shaft for the powerfeed of the Y

Peter
 
Thanks for the advise the oil level is correct as for removing the tapered pins I have been able to remove them without any problems so far.I use a heat gun to warm the area up and then apply a penetrating oil let it soak support the back of the shaft and use a pin punch .Regards greg
 
Thanks Ross a great schematic .As you suggested I might me able to disassemble the shaft coupling remove the top screw at the bevel and remove the shaft downwards and then replace the lower seal .Im assuming the part B30-40 DIN3670 is the seal you spoke off .I will post some pics when I do it .Regards Greg
 
IMG_1482.jpgIMG_1483.jpgIMG_1484.jpgIMG_1485.jpgIMG_1486.jpgThanks to all the advise I have removed the bevel Gear assy which has its own housing at the base is the oil seal which was intact but brittle I hope the pictures may help others
 
Greg, thanks for the photos, this should make it a lot easier for the next person who has to fix this problem. All those parts look hardened, ground and polished, it's a nice feeling when they separate as designed without too much hassle. Hopefully the seal is a standard part easily obtained down under, if not send a photo to Franz Singer. The part is small enough that it can go by air mail in an envelope and you'll have it in a week. Cheers, Bruce
 
You got lucky with those tapered pins
I have tried at least twice without any succes
When you are at it I would check the bearing on that horizontal shaft They tend to go bad first as the V-belts are pulling on it
With the right equipment you can pull that bearing straigt out without any further dismanteling

Peter
 
Thanks Bruce I have found one locally they are a standard size ,It is amazing how well these mills are made I am enjoying servicing and fixing it up before learning how to operate it
 
Hi Peter,

While you are at it I would check the bearing on that horizontal shaft. They tend to go bad first as the V-belts are pulling on it
With the right equipment you can pull that bearing straight out without any further dismantling.

Could you please say what equipment is needed for this? One of these days I need to pull out the motor to replace the bearings and when I do that I'll also do the bearing that you suggest. So it would be nice to know what I need to have on hand.

Cheers,
Bruce
 








 
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