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Deckel LK LKS LKD

fastrider

Plastic
Joined
Dec 3, 2019
Hi
I just got myself a Deckel model LK, known as jig borer. I need to overhaul it a bit because it was sitting for a while and was not in use for some time. I. Was searching for a manual but couldn't find any. Do we have someone here that is willing to send it to me as PDF via email?
 
I also couldn't get it to lower the head down by hand (wheel on the back right), like it's stuck. Is it possible to move Z axis without powering the machine on?
 
I can't recall of any thread discussing LK machines on this board or anywhere else. Ever.

When I say discussing, I mean by someone actually owning and using such a machine !
Thinking about it,

Good luck !
 
I think it would be great if we have a thread like this. This machine would deserve the thread, don't you think ;)
 
Well, I’ll be darned! I own a cool old Deckel that Tien doesn’t. Yet ;-)

Yes, the Z axis, and the other axis as well, work without power. Just slower.

I don’t have a manual or parts book for the LK either and would be interested in a copy as well.

L7
 
For a short while i owned the conversion table that made a standard FP2 or FP3 into an LK...What i mean is Deckel built the same table that you have on your LK except it was made with a mounting
face that bolted to the vertical table of the manual mills.(not FP1)
Table had the optical scales and moved independent of the mill's slides....came with a frame work that carried the table with wheels allowing it to be rolled right up to the mill for mounting....
Don't know much about the table , did not keep it long....
Never seen any documentation on the LK's ...

Be careful with the vertical head....Fits between the quill and the head casting are very close. Dirt and rust will be a problem there....There are two versions of head, A boring/drilling head, and a grinding head. Both were used with that machine.
The quill is lubricated through a screw on top of depth stop rod (the bar on the front of the vertical head that has a small flat shelf on top) Move the bar (thumb screw) fully down.9after you clean off the rust) Remove the screw from the top of the flat shelf and apply oil into the hole....I would start with some light nachine oil to get things loosened up....


The two cabinets contain the electrics for the machine(1) and the high frequency power source for the grinding spindle. Believe there are two versions of the high frequency supply, but i don't know more than that other
than the first gen high frequency source is deemed troublesome....

You do know that the ways on that table will make it useless for all but very light milling....Not designed to take side loads, just down thrust from drilling and boring...

Cheers Ross
 
We bought a similar LK a decade ago for 1400 to nab the boring and drilling head, thinking we'd have use for it on our FP2. It sits there still in our cabinet's lower shelve unused.. Our shop neighbour kept some weird parts off it for possible use later as he's a millwright. Balance was carted off to metal recycling..
 
Alfa GTA I followed your advice also had to tap it on the lever to start to move the quill. It took me half a day to get it moving...back in my head I had this felling that i'm doing it wrong and will do some damage, but luckily this time it was a right way to loosen the quill. Thanks a bunch
 
Do we have anybody here that would know for what is this used for and most of all what it is....I was thinking that it's edge finder but I a bit sceptical...IMG_20200605_172108.jpg
IMG_20200605_172122.jpg
 
It's an early Centricator, forerunner of the Centricators CIII, also known as the Flying-centri-saucer....😋

Very convenient to center the spindle axis on bores or buttons, and even on a part's edges with the suitable accessory.
Also very fragile !
 
TNB thanks for the info...found also somewhere in the closet hidden some instructions of this Centricator and I already used it for tramming my bed on the mill. Very usefull tool ��. Now I have another question...found this two odd parallels or something. What could this be...a sinbar?IMG_20200613_223225.jpg
 
Hi
Can someone help me...I'm trying to repack and clean grinding, heads from Deckel LK. Did maybe someone dissembled them and repacked them successfully? I'm having troubles to dissemble the bearing on the tip of the head...everything else and upper bearing I could get out with some tinkering around. Also in case if Isoflex Super TEL grease is not available anymore, could I use Isoflex NBU 15. Thanks for your help guys or girls ;)
 
Yes, you can use Isoflex NBU 15, it's what the professionals (Franz Singer, for example) use on these bearings.

Its not clear which "grinding head" the OP is referring to....If its the high speed spindle unit, don't think the NBU 15 is what one should use.
Gotta be careful here as the terms can get a bit fuzzy.
Cheers Ross
 
Its not clear which "grinding head" the OP is referring to....If its the high speed spindle unit, don't think the NBU 15 is what one should use.
Gotta be careful here as the terms can get a bit fuzzy.

Good point. NBU-15 is rated for D n < 1,600,000 where D is the bearing diameter in mm and n is the maximum rotation rate per minute. So for example if the bearing balls are on a 50mm diameter and the rotation rate is 30,000 rpm, one has D n = 1,500,000, which is still within range. But if the speed is a lot faster than that, a different grease may be needed.
 








 
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