Early Schaublin 13 value? - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MillersFalls View Post
    I'm also planing on turning down the existing shaft from either 3/8" or 1/2" to the required 9 mm via angle grinder or belt sander on the running motor. Wont be pretty, but it should be concentric, and should hopefully bolt straight in when I'm done modifying it. If it doesn't work i'm out at most about $100 for the motor.
    Cringe............ If the replacement motor has a key way you won't be able to make the shaft run round....the grinder will dig into the key way and make that part of the shaft lower than the rest, making it run off center.

    Would bet there is a small shop in your area that could easily turn the shaft on that motor for very little cash outlay....Would require disassembly, but that's pretty easy work....simpler than rebuilding a mill!
    Quality machines demand quality repairs....

    Cheers Ross

  2. #42
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    Yes I know its terrible, but if I can find a 3/8" shaft that's only 9.525 mm, so its only a 0.01" cut. That's a good point about the key way flattening though, perhaps I will fill it with a dummy key first. However the shaft will need to have a flat in it anyway to mate against the key in the existing female mate, I'm not cutting a new key way. The rapid shouldn't get used much, and the load should be low when it is used, so I figure might be good enough?...

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    One can clamp a motor to a plate and set the plate on a surface grinder with the long travel locked..shim the plate or motor to indicate flat.. Fire up the motor and down-grind the shaft to size...put a hand made guard of nylon at the motor bearing to be sure no grit can enter there...might add an O ring to the nyoln guard.

    Yes still to worry about the key way...two double (Piggy back) set screws on a shaft flat work well.

    and when you have the motor on the SG would be the time to make the flat....just clamp the shaft and long travel to grind the flat.

    RE: [turning down the existing shaft from either 3/8" or 1/2" to the required 9 mm via angle grinder or belt sander on the running motor.] is a plan to scrap the moror IMHO.

    looks like a very handy mill with a tilt tabel and a tilt head...

    I have the Steinel mill.
    steinle milling machine - Yahoo Image Search Results

  4. #44
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    Can you conjure a way to mount the motor on your mill's table and fix a lathe tool somewhere stationary? Feed the motor along the tool or vice versa using the handwheels. My guess is that you will get a bunch of chatter because the motor bearings are not intended to be lathe spindle bearings, but it ought to work with light cuts and a sharp tool. Do you have a dial test indicator to get things lined up so as not to make a tapered shaft? Heck, you could even use the corner of an endmill in the spindle with the spindle locked as your lathe tool.

    An alternative is to have a friendly machine shop bore the coupling to fit the shaft. I see in later Schaublin 13s that they used a commercial off the shelf flexible shaft coupling in that application.

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  6. #45
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    [QUOTE=michiganbuck;3553588]One can clamp a motor to a plate and set the plate on a surface grinder with the long travel locked..shim the plate or motor to indicate flat.. Fire up the motor and down-grind the shaft to size...put a hand made guard of nylon at the motor bearing to be sure no grit can enter there...might add an O ring to the nyoln guard.

    QUOTE]

    Pretty sure the OP does not have a lathe given his stated process to reduce the shaft OD.....
    Further,I would be pretty safe in assuming that he does not have a surface grinder either....

    Cheers Ross

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    I could likely set the job on that schaublin mill with a fair size die grinder and make +- .001 or better on the shaft..Likely dead on spot.. and grind the flat.
    Yes would use Janie's best towels to protcct the mill..and never hear the end of that.

    Qt the Op:[ via angle grinder or belt sander on the running motor.] is a plan to scrap the moror IMHO.

    Mounted grinding wheels...
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Industrie...bd3b79e56ce6aa

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    The topic of re-sizing motor shafts has come up on PM before, with many of the current solutions having been proposed previously. Though I don't have a lathe or surface grinder, as suggested here I could mount the motor to the table and reduce the shaft via a stationary tool like a lathe, or just hit it with a shaft mounted grinding wheel in the horizontal spindle like a surface grinder. That said since I already have the mill completely disassembled I'd like to get the motor replaced while I still have the option of turning the mill on its front to access the bottom. I think I will try to make a small reduction on a belt sander and then check the runout and decide whether to keep going or find a more accurate approach.

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    Seems there might be someonw up to grinding a motor shaft in New Mexico.

    With center on both shaft ends on might rumn it on a larhe with a tool post grinder.. on am OD grinder..even TC grinder.
    Very likely it will be made scrap with trying to hand grind it..better sell it and buy a motor that has the right shaft. Perhaps make a lath turnning to couple he shaft so something the right size.

  10. #49
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    I'd recommend that you go and buy a lathe - even a small Atlas or similar to help with the inevitable bushes and spacers (and motor shafts) that are needed on a project like this. You can always sell it on later when you buy a more suitable bedfellow for this mill.
    Frankly I wouldn't attempt a refresh/refurb of a mill without a lathe.

    Charles

  11. Likes Boat Brat, rklopp, AlfaGTA, J Grainger, ballen and 1 others liked this post

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