FP 1 Dismantle - Page 3
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 51 of 51

Thread: FP 1 Dismantle

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Country
    CZECH REPUBLIC
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    11

    Default

    No, I did not actually. I wanted to manufacture them because I am really bad at cutting threads on the lathe and looking for excuses to practice.

    PS. Just checked out of curiosity, it costs around 3€ M20x1

    Poyraz

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    6,828
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    378
    Likes (Received)
    2027

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poyo View Post
    No, I did not actually. I wanted to manufacture them because I am really bad at cutting threads on the lathe and looking for excuses to practice.

    PS. Just checked out of curiosity, it costs around 3€ M20x1

    Poyraz
    Excuse accepted

    Peter

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Country
    CZECH REPUBLIC
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    11

    Default

    Correction, it is m18x1 and I could not find off the shelf item with that specs, they have 17x1 and next size is 20x1. I made like 4 of them, in case similar size is used elsewhere on the machine.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    6,828
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    378
    Likes (Received)
    2027

    Default

    A hex nut would have worked also
    To secure it one can use a big thin washer and fold it over the hex on one or 2 sides

    Peter

  5. Likes Laurentian liked this post
  6. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Country
    CZECH REPUBLIC
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    11

    Default

    So, most of the problems are solved. I could not clean it as thorough as I wanted but don't have time to go any deeper.

    Any suggestions on how to push the wicks through oil channels? Also, to y axis oil plate had some sheet of paper looking thing to stop oil from leaking, is it OK if I use gasket sealant?

    Cheers,
    Poyraz

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poyo View Post
    Also finished the design and printing of splash guard,I'll do a test fit, if its alright, will be sent for casting.

    Attachment 325853
    Attachment 325854Attachment 325855
    Hey if it works, don't forget your american brethren who have this exact part broken in this exact same way that could use a replacement

    I swear your mill is in the same condition mine was in. I did a pretty thorough degrease and re-oil when I had it apart.

  8. Likes poyo liked this post
  9. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Country
    CZECH REPUBLIC
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    11

    Cool

    It did fit in place, radius of the part could be smidge smaller but can't complain. I gave it couple of coats of PU paint and will confirm the results during the weekend. And I can share the part with you once I believe its ok.

    I've been also degreasing and oiling it along the way. Also got rid of the table feed and coolant pump mechanisms since I wont be using them. I have the change gear feed model and I do not have the change gears. Planning to place there a 12NM servo that I have laying around or a geared AC motor. Meaning I'll be able to feed also while motor is in reverse(not sure if it will have any use.)

  10. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Oregon
    Posts
    29
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    I also need a splash guard! Please let us know if you can have extras made.

  11. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Country
    CZECH REPUBLIC
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    11

    Default

    I 3d printed it since some already indicated it does not have to be made of metal. I also painted it with couple of coats of PU paint should be just fine. I will share it on thingiverse since you are already the second person needing it. With slight change can be also used as a template for casting. Franz Singer had it in stock but too expensive for my taste, if you say you need it out of alu get in touch with him.

  12. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    GERMANY
    Posts
    3,686
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2484
    Likes (Received)
    1501

    Default

    Example of using a 3d printed part to cast an aluminium one:

    Turning a 3D PRINT Into an ALUMINUM Casting Using LOST PLA │Orangutan Skull - YouTube

  13. Likes poyo liked this post
  14. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Country
    CZECH REPUBLIC
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    11

    Default

    This seems like a quite a big effort for such simple part, its not as detailed as the skull so simple sand casting would probably be ok.


    PS. I ended up watching several other videos of that dude, pretty cool

  15. Likes ballen, sigurasg liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •