Need opinion on removing x axis feed clutch, to replace drive key

I have an early FP-1, (1952) that I damaged, and am now putting back together. Through this forum, I was able to acquire a new x axis screw and nut, and replacement z axis handwheel. Other parts, I brass brazed back together, and fitted.

While removing the damaged leadscrew ( fell off a forklift), I pounded away, to push out the acme nut. I also managed to shear off the locating pin, on the x axis drive key.

I have removed the table again, a small 3mm setscrew, and removed the left-right shift dog. The feed clutch rotates freely. The feed clutch also has the sheared off pin from the keyway. I need to remove it. So far clawing at it, and strong magnets won't remove the pin.

How do I remove the feed clutch? I am afraid to damage the gearing. Do I have to take apart further? Thanks. Scott

Not an FP1 guy, but think the only way to gain access to remove that clutch is through the back (inside) cover.
Requires removal of the vertical slide from the machine column.
Abbreviated procedure....someone here that has an FP1 will ,i am sure fill in the low spots.
Think you can remove the slide by first moving the "Y" slide fully to the rear with the vertical head removed.
Loosen or remove the gibs on the "Z" slide, then lift the vertical slide up while you crank the "Z" up .
Keep tension on the slide as you crank the "Z" screw up till it comes free (out of the nut in the base),,,,then continue lifting till its free from the vertical ways....
Screw and feed rod will come up with the slide...place on bench , back side up, be careful of the screw and rod...

Remove the rear cover.....
Cheers Ross

update on progress, got it apart, and made a key. I went from this

to this
second picture shows after partial teardown. I decided I needed a puller/pusher to extract the sleeve bearing that holds the x axis feed clutch. No need to reinvent the wheel. Bill Fisher figured it out years ago. So I made one, per his drawings. Not really sure what he pushed out, but the tool made short work of removing mine. After cleaning 68 years of goop out, I pressed the pin part of the key out, and took time to marvel at the Deckel machine work.

A key blank was roughed out from some hot roll plate (laying around). Flycut on the bridgport, it was out .001" over 2". Not exactly
Deckel standards. I surfaced ground it for a slight tap fit, on the square sides. Now the interesting part. The key has a locator pin, same diameter as the key width. It has to be machined as a boss, standing proud of the key. A cnc Hurco made the boss. I pressed the key in the sleeve, and found the boss is flat on top, the sleeve has a radius. I am not a good enough programmer to profile a radius on a raised key. The sleeve is about 60 Rockwell, a file bounces off. So, a bit of hand filing, and I'm good to go. Only took 4 hours to take apart, measure, and make a key. At this speed. I'll make 10, and get rich!

Yes, I know. I have one of the rare wall mounted Deckels. When editing pictures in an iphone, it converts to an "AAE" file. I can rotate, save changes, then post. Sometimes it works, but today, not so much. Iphones, and Windows based computers don't play well together. Maybe someday I will get the hang of editing posts. Or not. Thanks for the suggestions, from members.It helped a lot. Scott

Be aware there is a somewhat identical key in the hole behind the Z-nut
Be sure to orient the shaft with the long keyway while lowering the saddle into place
How do I know ???

So I made a key like that once too
Aligned a oversize piece of flat from the correct thickness in the 4 jaw
Turned the locator pin Then cut the key of from the rest of the material and ground it to size in a vice
I do not have a CNC machine

Peter

Peter from Holland said:

Be aware there is a somewhat identical key in the hole behind the Z-nut
Be sure to orient the shaft with the long keyway while lowering the saddle into place
How do I know ???

Click to expand...

Oh no -- you were lowering saddle + lead screw + power shaft down onto the base and you forgot to line up the key slot in the power shaft with the key in the bottom part. The weight of the saddle on the power shaft broke off the key in the base. Ouch!

Hi Scott,

irontoys said:

update on progress, I decided I needed a puller/pusher to extract the sleeve bearing that holds the x axis feed clutch. No need to reinvent the wheel. Bill Fisher figured it out years ago. So I made one, per his drawings. Not really sure what he pushed out, but the tool made short work of removing mine. After cleaning 68 years of goop out, I pressed the pin part of the key out, and took time to marvel at the Deckel machine work.

Click to expand...

Congratulations, glad you got it fixed! Could you please edit your post above, and insert a link to Bill Fischer's description/drawing? That will help the next person to figure it out. Just open Fischer's post in another window or tab on your browser, and copy-and-paste the URL (starts with http:// or practicalmachinist.com/...) into your post (in "edit" mode).

Cheers,
Bruce