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Getting an MT4 to 40 taper sleeve off a Wohlhaupter UPA-3 boring head

sigurasg

Aluminum
Joined
May 4, 2018
Hey y'all,

I found a Wohlhaupter UPA-3 boring/facing head for my Deckel FP2. From the story the seller gave me, this should be 1969 vintage or thereabouts, and the previous owner bought it new for his hobby shop. It was absolutely filthy with a black paste-like substance, which is because apparently the previous owner enjoyed machining a particular kind of black wood.
IMG_20200701_180541.jpg

It cleaned up OK on the outside and it mostly moves well though there's some stickiness or rough spots, presumably due to detrium in the head. I'd like to do a proper disassembly and cleaning, but to do that I think I'll have to get the MT4-40 taper sleeve off it. This probably hasn't been off the boring head since the before the Beatles broke up.
IMG_20200701_180554.jpg

I'm thinking penetrating oil and then using some kind of puller from the top of the shank to under the drive collar on the sleeve.
Are there any tricks to this that I should be aware of?

Siggi
 
Don't think so...The original MT4 heads have an integral shank...not removable so save your efforts at removing the sleeve, it won't make the disassembly any easier.....

Later versions all have removable shanks, but don't think that is what you have there. If the body of the head is marked as "SO 4" then its got the integral Morse shank.
Cheers Ross
 
Siggi,

I've never been able to get one of those sleeves off. Probably the best way is to make up some wedges like drill chuck removal wedges. I never bothered making any because it is not necessary anyway, as Ross notes. You can completely dismantle and clean the UPA with the sleeve in place. I did one just like yours only 6 months ago.
 
I never bothered making any because it is not necessary anyway, as Ross notes. You can completely dismantle and clean the UPA with the sleeve in place. I did one just like yours only 6 months ago.

Ah, that's good to know. I don't think I'll bother if it's not necessary. Obviously I can get the slide off and clean all of that. I figured I'd have to get the sleeve off before I can get the two rings off at the top, but maybe that's not necessary for getting into the works?
 
Siggi,

I've never been able to get one of those sleeves off. Probably the best way is to make up some wedges like drill chuck removal wedges. I never bothered making any because it is not necessary anyway, as Ross notes. You can completely dismantle and clean the UPA with the sleeve in place. I did one just like yours only 6 months ago.

This time or any other time, the trick is to accept that the outer sleeve will become scrap. Strike with a matched pair of hand-drilling hammers impacting 180 degrees apart. The sleeve goes oval, the tapers separate.

CAVEAT: Major one.

Won't work for s**t if the 4MT HAS NO taper on the inside. EG: If what it is sleeving is as an interference fit straight cylinder.

Fails even more badly if the 4 MT isn't any sort of sleeve AT ALL, but solid, rather!

Of course!

:D
 
I figured I'd have to get the sleeve off before I can get the two rings off at the top, but maybe that's not necessary for getting into the works?

There isn't really enough clearance between the shoulder of the sleeve and the head to even get the C-clip freed. I cleaned the slide and such, I guess I'll leave it at that for now.
If it still feels crunchy, maybe I can inject some grease through the nipples on the ring.
 








 
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