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Heidenhain ND960 Scales Compatibility.

Degull

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Location
Toronto Canada
Hello everyone! I have a Heidenhain ND960 that I would like to fit to my FP2. I have a 2 axis Mitutoyo DRO installed at the moment and I would like to have a DRO with 3 axis.
There are so many scales out there, I have no idea where to start. Should I look for specific Heidenhain scales or can I use others and adapt to the ND960?

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The ND960 is designed to work with Heidenhain scales that have sinewave signals. Specifically, 11uApp signal and 9 pin M23 connector, like the LS303, LS403 and LS406 (among others). You can use later Heidenhain 1Vpp scales (like the LS487) but that requires an inline signal adaptor available from Heidenhain.

Most scales from other makers have a TTL (square wave) signal format that is not compatible with the ND960. Though you can adapt the connectors, there are no quality signal adaptors to go from square wave TTL back to sinusoidal. If you want scales that match the quality of your ND960, get Heidenhain or RSF scales.
 
Excellent, thanks so much for the information. I saw that list in the manual but there were so many scales listed, I had no idea where to start.

One more question about the size of the scales I need. I have never fitted a DRO before and I am not sure about the size of each of the scales. My FP2 has 400mm of longitudinal travel, do I get a 400mm scale or do I need longer?

Can I have different model scales on the different axis? example a LS406 on the vertical, a LS406C on the long and a LS303 on the horizontal?
 
One more question about the size of the scales I need. I have never fitted a DRO before and I am not sure about the size of each of the scales. My FP2 has 400mm of longitudinal travel, do I get a 400mm scale or do I need longer?

Heidenhain scales have an 'ML' value, which means "Measuring Length". For example the LS803 series (often used on FP2s) have ML values which include 220, 270, 320, 370, 420, 470, 520mm and so on. If the travel is 400mm, then the best size would be an ML of 420mm. For the LS803 the overall length is the ML + 105mm, so a 420ML scale would have an overall length of 525mm.

Can I have different model scales on the different axis? example a LS406 on the vertical, a LS406C on the long and a LS303 on the horizontal?

Yes, that's no problem. Be aware however that the different scale models might have their reference marks in different places. I hardly ever use the reference marks, so for me that's a non-issue.
 
Once you have the correct signal type (usually the second digit in the model number), the main difference between Heidenhain glass scale model numbers is the resolution, reference mark configuration and physical size of the scale.

For example, an LS406 is the small size with high resolution- LS303 is the same body as the LS406 but with lower resolution. Generally speaking the LS3XX,4XX,8XX,9XX are the smaller bodied scales, the LS1XX are larger body. Some scales have removable markers that allow you to position the reference mark according to your preference. The ND960 has parameters in it's software which allow you to match the DRO to the scale resolution, including custom display characteristics, like how many zeroes you want on the right side of the decimal point.

Have to study carefully as Heidenhain has a large number of scale options- different grating materials, resolution, signal format, reference marks, body size, connector types, mounting types, cables...
Depending on the type of work you do, LS303 scales ought to be great on your FP2, the ND960 can be set for them to display .0002 resolution. If you want finer than that, opt for the LS403 or LS406.
 
It all makes sense now. I am going to look for some scales, .0002 resolution is plenty for me. Thanks for all the help guys!!
 
Any resolution finer than .0002" on a manual mill is jive.....Moving by hand you really can't split a move finer than that unless you are using a hard stop and gauge blocks....In reality most users find that .0005" is about the practical move limit....I read about guys claiming "tenths" accuracy from their machines and i call "BS".....Now, the NC's , that is a different matter...



Cheers Ross
 
I bought two 420 MM LS406 scales and one 220 MM LS303 scale on ebay. One of the LS406 scales has the round 9 pin connector missing. Looks like someone cut the connector clean off. Can I replace just the connector or should I be looking for a complete cable?
 
It depends- some variants have the cable permanently attached to the reader head, others have a (special) connector at the reader head.
Post photos of your scales where the cable enters the reader head and we can tell you which you have.
 
One of the LS406 scales has the round 9 pin connector missing. Looks like someone cut the connector clean off. Can I replace just the connector or should I be looking for a complete cable?

You can just replace the connector. If you have trouble finding one, let me know, I have a handful of spares. The color code is:
1 - green
2 - yellow
3 - brown
4 - white
5 - blue
6 - red
7 - gray
8 - pink
9 - not connected
connector housing - external shield
 
Any resolution finer than .0002" on a manual mill is jive.....Moving by hand you really can't split a move finer than that unless you are using a hard stop and gauge blocks....In reality most users find that .0005" is about the practical move limit....I read about guys claiming "tenths" accuracy from their machines and i call "BS".....Now, the NC's , that is a different matter...
Cheers Ross

Not so much in agreement here. I do find 50 millionths or one micron readouts on a B-port useful.
If the part tolerance is a thou or .0005 fine readouts can be very helpful. Of course your measuring has to be ten times better and that becomes a whole new problem.
If .0002 the smallest one can see I wonder the PPK off of such. Puts you into .002/.005 inch tolerances very fast.
But... I don't know .... very many think me crazy for putting 1 micron readouts on a B-port style machine and some machinists love me for it.
One can never be too thin, too rich or have too much resolution.
Bob
 
Thanks for the links! I have one coming from DigiKey.

I hope it fits OK. Colt45 told me that there are multiple keying methods for these connectors, which I had not realised.

The other two points to be aware of are that the connector you bought is for cable sizes 10-14mm, so if your cable is smaller, you'll need to use some plastic or rubber tubing to build up the diameter where it enters the connector. The other point that may be different is the numbering of the pins. That's no problem, as long as you are aware of it. The numbering in my post #11 is CCW, starting to the left of the key, when looking at the connector from the connection end (and not from the cable end). The connector from DigiKey appears to be numbered in the other direction, so 1/8 are interchanged, 2/7 are interchanged, and so on.
 
The key should be correct. I looked at the data sheet and the key looks like it’s in the right spot. If it’s the wrong connector, I’ll send it back.
Thank you for the wiring hook ups, I’ll be sure to check them twice!
 
The other point that may be different is the numbering of the pins. That's no problem, as long as you are aware of it. The numbering in my post #11 is CCW, starting to the left of the key, when looking at the connector from the connection end (and not from the cable end). The connector from DigiKey appears to be numbered in the other direction, so 1/8 are interchanged, 2/7 are interchanged, and so on.

The connector was delivered today, DigiKey is lightning fast delivering product.

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It fits the DRO perfectly, the key way is correct. The numbering is different as you described. I will take care to solder wires in the correct pin locations.
I’m still waiting for all the scales to arrive. Looking forward to installing it. Thanks!!
 
It fits the DRO perfectly, the key way is correct.

Happy to hear that. If it didn't fit I was planning to send you one of my used ones.

The numbering is different as you described.

Before you install the pins, consider *modifying* the numbering on the plastic insert with an Xacto knife or similar. Cut off all of the raised number markings apart from (say) 2 and 7, and then "adjust" those to read 7 and 2 respectively. That's enough to serve as a good reminder/warning for you or someone else looking at it in the future.
 
Happy to hear that. If it didn't fit I was planning to send you one of my used ones.



Before you install the pins, consider *modifying* the numbering on the plastic insert with an Xacto knife or similar. Cut off all of the raised number markings apart from (say) 2 and 7, and then "adjust" those to read 7 and 2 respectively. That's enough to serve as a good reminder/warning for you or someone else looking at it in the future.

You are very kind. I would never think to modify the connector in that manner. I appreciate that, thanks!

Fernando
 








 
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