How to make this cover removable

ballen · Jun 21, 2020

This is off-topic for this forum, but I am sure the regulars here can answer my question, so I'm doing it anyway. I suppose the machine (Studer cylindrical grinder) is Swiss so that sort-of counts.

The machine has an option to put a 200mm (8") grinding wheel on the right side. I just got the necessary parts from someone in Melbourne, and am fitting them. The wheel shroud fits here, like this:

My question concerns the cover (below, left) which is used when the right-hand wheel is not in use. I removed it from the large belt shroud with a hammer from inside. I had originally thought it was welded on, but in fact it was only retained by friction and paint:

I want to be able to attach and remove this cover, and have it stay in place without vibration. My question: what's a good way to modify this cover to make it easy to remove but not sloppy? One idea: enlarge the ID (say) 0.1mm, add grooves for a couple of O-rings, and rely on O-ring friction. Or slit the cover at the bottom, and add a clamping strap around the OD. Or add three pins around the periphery to the cover and machine three angled slots for them in the belt shroud. Is there an easier/better way?

Both covers are aluminium castings, probably around 7mm (bit over 1/4") thick.

Scottl · Jun 21, 2020

Is there enough meat to tap for some small brass-tipped set screws?

ezduzit · Jun 21, 2020

Epoxy and magnets.

ballen · Jun 21, 2020

Scottl said:
Is there enough meat to tap for some small brass-tipped set screws?

Good idea! Yes, there is, probably 7mm. So one solution is to enlarge the hole in the cover by 0.1mm so it slides on, then add 1 or 3 thumbscrews. Since grabbing in aluminium and in a grinder environment, I'd probably use stainless not brass. It should work, but there is some risk of vibrating free, and it is slightly fussy. Let's see what other ideas there are.

ballen · Jun 21, 2020

ezduzit said:
Epoxy and magnets.

I like that idea. Since both parts are aluminium, I'd either need matching magnets in both parts, or to add steel keepers (screws, most likely) to one part with magnets epoxied to the other part. Am slightly worried that this might not hold the parts tightly enough to prevent vibration. Also, this being a grinder the magnets would attract all steel and iron grinding swarf. I'd need to enlarge the hole in the cover so that it slides over easily, then add magnets and possibly keepers. Let's see what other solutions are proposed...

AlfaGTA · Jun 21, 2020

Piece of piano wire formed into a "U" shaped bale that snaps over the center of the cover...(file in a small retaining notch for the contact of the wire to seat into at the center of the cover)
Wire bent with two right angle ends that clip into holes in the casting...
No tools required to remove or install....simple and will hold the cover tight....
Could also use a small diameter extension spring instead of the wire...just stretch it over the cover...ends held to the casting via small screws/rivet that extend out like studs. when not ibn tension the spring end eyes come off the studs as to not interfere with the wheel instillation.

Cheers Ross

ballen · Jun 21, 2020

AlfaGTA said:
Piece of piano wire formed into a "U" shaped bale ...

This would be on the outside, right? Like one of those wire clips that holds the top on glass canning jars?

Could also use a small diameter extension spring instead of the wire..

Again, on the outside, right?

I like the idea of a spring a lot, since that ensures solid contact/no vibration. Would prefer a solution with everything inside the cover and nothing outside. So how about three spring clips on the INSIDE of the cover, that snap into the round hole?

michiganbuck · Jun 21, 2020

Being a wheel guard, I would want it solidly affixed to the wheel head. If there is 1/8 “ or more clearance to your wheel mount OD as it sets inside the wheel head shroud? Could you make a steel bushing to slip fit into that bore and then have two retaining shrews going through the wheel guard and through the wheel head shroud to be threaded to the added steel bushing.
If so, you could have three screw holes so when only the cover is in place it would look nice.

Perhaps the screws just threaded into the aluninum would be OK.

SIP6A · Jun 22, 2020

Its a Swiss made grinder there is no reason to cobble it up. The way it is supposed to fit is a friction fit. If you didn't distort the cover taking it off with a hammer, you should be able to clean it up and press on by hand and it will stay there when the grinder is running. If you have vibration so bad that you can feel it when the machine is running you have another problem.

thermite · Jun 22, 2020

ballen said:
This is off-topic for this forum, but I am sure the regulars here can answer my question, so I'm doing it anyway. I suppose the machine (Studer cylindrical grinder) is Swiss so that sort-of counts.

The machine has an option to put a 200mm (8") grinding wheel on the right side. I just got the necessary parts from someone in Melbourne, and am fitting them. The wheel shroud fits here, like this:

My question concerns the cover (below, left) which is used when the right-hand wheel is not in use. I removed it from the large belt shroud with a hammer from inside. I had originally thought it was welded on, but in fact it was only retained by friction and paint:

I want to be able to attach and remove this cover, and have it stay in place without vibration. My question: what's a good way to modify this cover to make it easy to remove but not sloppy? One idea: enlarge the ID (say) 0.1mm, add grooves for a couple of O-rings, and rely on O-ring friction. Or slit the cover at the bottom, and add a clamping strap around the OD. Or add three pins around the periphery to the cover and machine three angled slots for them in the belt shroud. Is there an easier/better way?

Both covers are aluminium castings, probably around 7mm (bit over 1/4") thick.

Over-thinking the actual need. As usual!

Tough job, I am sure, but "good on yah"!

SOMEBODY has to be OCD-Anal over the s**ty little details, 'coz it saves the rest of us a great deal of time wasted!

KISS method:

https://www.amazon.com/Pyrex-Blue-R...gware+lids+replacement&qid=1592811383&sr=8-27

Metric sizes, Corning uses, even. MANY Metric sizes.

Scroll down to "...products related to.."

Put an "O" ring - or an ignorant bun-gand - in the outer groove if yah need more grip.

Cheap, cheerful, "dishwasher and Microwave safe" .... last a long time.

Not a lot of time wasted nor tears shed to replace when now and then it turns out otherwise.

Plan "B"

Leave it TF as-is.

No one else seems to have had a major issue with that, have they?

Peter from Holland · Jun 22, 2020

I agree mostly with SIP6A
I would at least try it that way
Only if it does not stay on I would see if a sort of bajonet system is possible

Peter

ballen · Jun 22, 2020

Hi Buck,

michiganbuck said:
Being a wheel guard...

I am asking about the cover. The wheel guard has a clamping strap, which is loosened and tightened with a screw.

ballen · Jun 22, 2020

SIP6A said:
Its a Swiss made grinder there is no reason to cobble it up. The way it is supposed to fit is a friction fit.

Nope. In the 1960s my grinder was delivered without the right-hand wheel option, and this round cover was "permanently" attached to the belt cover/shroud. That's why I had to knock it off with a hammer.

I don't know how this cover was done for machines that were delivered with the right-hand wheel option. Being Swiss, I don't think they would have relied on friction, especially between two thick cast-aluminium parts.

ballen · Jun 22, 2020

Peter from Holland said:
I agree mostly with SIP6A. I would at least try it that way
Only if it does not stay on I would see if a sort of bajonet system is possible.

Probably that's right, I need to bore it out for clearance anyway, since right now it's too tight to go on without a hammer/press. But it would be nice to get some controllable friction in there also. O-ring? It's easy enough to make a groove for that when it's set up to bore out. Or perhaps three metal spring clips intended to hold glass shades onto lamps? Or something along the lines that Ross has described, but internally. Three or more pieces of piano wire attached inside of the cover, which push outwards against the flange? Or a kind of outwards-pressing circular spring?

thermite · Jun 22, 2020

ballen said:
Probably that's right, I need to bore it out for clearance anyway, since right now it's too tight to go on without a hammer/press. But it would be nice to get some controllable friction in there also. O-ring? It's easy enough to make a groove for that when it's set up to bore out. Or perhaps three metal spring clips intended to hold glass shades onto lamps? Or something along the lines that Ross has described, but internally. Three or more pieces of piano wire attached inside of the cover, which push outwards against the flange? Or a kind of outwards-pressing circular spring?

Would you believe Studer already did that?

Try cleaning, de-burring, checking for damage or out-of-round. Then try Beeswax?

NB: I'd hate to have the contract to supply your house with ignorant toilet-paper...

R&D & QC overhead on the rocket fuel alone would break the bank before you ever even got yer ass lofted into low-Earth orbit to AIM for Mars!

Most machina-shits can FIND their arse with both hands. Only a few as then feel compelled to re-engineer their own grommet.

michiganbuck · Jun 22, 2020

Then I would drill and tap for two simple set screws and make a small indent where they seat. Grind off the length so they are flush and look nice.

Plusminus · Jun 26, 2020

Hi Ballen,

Here I have a picture of the left cover.
It’s from a friend of mine who has the same machine.
It has just a set screw.

Greetings Peter

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