Mikron WF41 C mill - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    it is a one piece part, it is clean, I looked at it quite carefully looking for the set screw present in drawings I could find of the other cylinders, but nothing is there, just the tiny 1.5mm hole positioned around the middle section of the spring stack

    I really don't get why OTT wouldn't share the parts drawing... it's a 35+ year old design that doesn't resemble the newer stuff, I can't imagine them making much money on servicing these, I emailed them back asking for approximate cost of the overhaul and time it would take, haven't received a reply yet

    the icing on the cake will probably be non-standard spring washers...

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  3. #22
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    Don't know from squat, but thinking that the yellow plunger is limited on travel so as to not over compress or damage the hydraulic portion of the unit above.
    Several thoughts:
    First you need to confirm that the cylinder ID is the same above where the yellow plunger stops as below (measure when compressed perhaps)
    I realize this likely will be difficult. Maybe a set of old style spring calipers could reach the lower portion when the plunger is compressed.
    At any rate if the diameters are different then it answers your question as to which way the plunger must be removed...

    Note: it might be near impossible to see a joint between two post finished parts.
    Often application of heat to the area will show a joint that was previously invisible .

    If the ID's are the same, within experimental error,..Then there is a hidden restraint. If your model is accurate and there is a groove in the cylinder, perhaps there is a sprung retaining ring
    (like a piston ring) on the plunger. Might need a compressor to get it to pass the groove.....I know you stated that the plunger had a 1.5mm clearance (approx) but that might be enough to
    pass a very thin sleeve (special tool?) between the plunger and the bore ID....That sleeve might be enough to allow the ring to pass the groove....

    Is it possible to compress the plunger enough so that you could see the sides of the plunger as it passes the small hole in the side of the housing....If so moving it in small steps you should be able to see the
    OD of the plunger as it is moved (compressed) past the hole and you would know if there was something there preventing disassembly.

    Cheers Ross

  4. #23
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    Just found a a drawing of the vertical "square" Deckel Dialog11 NC/CC spindle, the drawbar arrangement in there looks very similar to the Mikron one, perhaps that helps...
    deckel-d11-nc-cc.jpg

    Full size:
    Deckel-D11-NC-CC — ImgBB

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  6. #24
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    thanks for the ideas, I will definitely post results when I'll get around to it, but it might take few days

    Ross, the groove in the cylinder wall is where the ball bearings reside when the spring is fully extended, when I took out the piston and acting rod, the central (yellow) cone was pushing the ball bearings into that groove preventing overextension of the spring (that what I initially thought it was supposed to do), I pushed the yellow part down to remove the ball bearings and expected the green ring shaped part to pop out with the rest, but that green part is what is stuck and won't move, I doubt anything else will come out before that part is removed, and I plan on doing that with a better expanding extractor pulling on the central(yellow) part

    DeadMahoDude, that D11 setup seems to house the cylinder inside the splined section of the spindle, but in my case it is screwed in at the end with a long extension going into the quill to reach the grip fingers, anyway, this D11 looks very similar to what you posted earlier - that picture on the OTT website, the groove in the cylinder wall is missing and the top end of the central cone shape part is also different, in my case, the 3 cylindrical pins are pushing right on the flat end of the central(yellow) part

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    Found some more pics of the drawbar in disassembled state, as I was looking through collection of old photos, in search for random photos of my dog.

    She died very unexpectedly 2 days ago, at age 10, far, far too early.
    Nala, you were the best, smartest, more caring dog I could ever wish for!!!

    dsc_1025.jpgdsc_1026.jpgdsc_0029.jpgdsc_0418.jpgdsc_0764.jpg

  8. #26
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    Hi guys,

    interesting topic, i have Micron WF 40 C with quill, but it's not smooth when i'm extending it, so i want to disassemble the vertical milling head.
    I don't want to go inside draw bar mechanism, but i need to remove it in order to get spindle out of head. I'm bit afraid of those spring, do you need to compress them with hydraulic in order to unscrew holding collet ?

    Thanks you for your reply

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    sorry, when I replied to the PM I didn't notice this post

    no, you don't need to compress anything to take the drawbar cylinder off

    from the bottom - loosen the set screw for the claw adjustment, unscrew the claw completely

    at the top - heat up the splined shaft end where the drawbar cylinder is screwed in and turn it left to loosen, it was glued in very well on my machine, I couldn't loosen it without the heat

    regarding my cylinder, still haven't had the time to figure out how to get it apart, so for the time being I put everything back together and using it as is

  10. #28
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    I look at this diagram and it occurs to me that the collet should be constantly pulled upwards, or if no tool is inserted, the collet is free and can be unscrewed? The manual says that it is necessary to activate the hydraulics when adjusting the collet, so I concluded that it is also necessary to remove the collet.

    Thanks for the recommendation the heating of the thread, but first I will probably have to make a special tool to loosen the collet

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails picture2.jpg  

  11. #29
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    belleville washer stack inside the drawbar cylinder is what is pulling the fingers up all the time, and when you activate tool change and push the button, hydraulic pressure is acting on the piston in the cylinder to compress the spring stack and push the fingers downwards (thus releasing and pushing the tool holder out at the same time), so when everything is turned off and you start to take things apart - nothing is under tension except the washer spring stack, but it is captive in the cylinder which you don't plan on taking apart, and it is preloaded very lightly

    to take the fingers off you first undo the small hex screw (nr. 1 in the drawing) and then you can use a large screw driver to unscrew the finger "body", if you shine a flashlight into there you'll see what's what, both regular RH threads, left to loosen

    I don't recall using any special tools to undo the small locking screw


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