New owner Deckel FP1 question - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Sigurasg,
    While not disputing your experience about power feeds when running in reverse, the drive dogs in the feed mechanism are designed to kick out if the drive shaft direction is reversed, easily checked with the machine off, engage a feed direction and turn the hand wheel in the back direction (clockwise) the feed handle should kick out, if not, something is wrong. The photo of the power feed shaft shows the setup.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drive-dog.jpg  

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan View Post
    Sigurasg,
    While not disputing your experience about power feeds when running in reverse, the drive dogs in the feed mechanism are designed to kick out if the drive shaft direction is reversed, easily checked with the machine off, engage a feed direction and turn the hand wheel in the back direction (clockwise) the feed handle should kick out, if not, something is wrong. The photo of the power feed shaft shows the setup.
    Hey Alan,

    interesting. My experience is with my FP2, which does run just fine in reverse. That is to say with the exception of the power feed kick-outs, possibly the splash oiling in the ram and the coolant pump.
    I guess the/your FP1 is different from the/my FP2 in this respect and as usual assumption is apt to make a you-know-what of you-know-whom .

    Siggi

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    Quote Originally Posted by sigurasg View Post
    My experience is with my FP2, which does run just fine in reverse.
    I guess I should qualify that statement - I managed to run the Y axis into a hard stop with the motor in reverse. I've been searching for photos of the FP2 Y-axis power feed dogs to try and figure out how I managed this.
    As usual I can't find any relevant photos, though I found the X-axis dogs. Those sure look like it'd be hard to impossible to run the feed in reverse.

  4. #24
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    Default FP2 Y-axis feed shaft

    Quote Originally Posted by sigurasg View Post
    As usual I can't find any relevant photos, though I found the X-axis dogs. Those sure look like it'd be hard to impossible to run the feed in reverse.
    I still haven't found any photos of the FP2 Y-axis feed shaft apart, but I did find this in an FP2 2202 parts manual:
    y-axis-drive-shaft.jpg
    It looks to me like the driving gear rides on the splines on the shaft, which presumably engage into one bevel gear or the other when the feed is engaged.
    Maybe there isn't room for a more elegant, uni-directional driving mechanism for the Y-axis feed?

    Does anyone remember photos of this mechanism apart?

    y-axis-drive-shaft.jpg.

  5. #25
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    The gib has a slot which is attached to a adjustment screw. Does this screw need to be tight in either direction clockwise or anti clockwise?

    I am pretty sure the machine is turning in the correct direction, when I am facing the machine the tool spins from right to left. If looking underneath the tool will be spinning anti clockwise..

    Yes the stop ends are in place.. I guess they are the two fixed stops with a circular end..

    I wish I could post photos..

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    Also I don't have any spare shear pins but I have ordered a pack from singer but who knows how long they will take to arrive.
    In the mean time I found that a 2 inch nail is the exact same OD as a shear pin and fits perfectly.. As I understand ordinary 2 inch nails are made from mild steel but a friend is not convinced and said not to use the nail..
    Would anyone know if it would be okay?
    Just as a precaution I have made some small cuts with a hacksaw where it should shear off in case of jamming which would make it weaker than normal..
    Has anyone tried this?

  7. #27
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    The handwheel on the back of the machine is supposed to rotate in an anticlockwise direction viewed from the rear. Yes the hard stops will have 2 locating pins and a scallop out of them, the soft stops are moveable and only in play for power feed, otherwise the trip mechanism passes through the slot.
    As for shear pin, do not use a nail if you value the drive mechanism, based on postings from this site the shear pin is mild steel, 2.95mm diameter by 12.5mm shank length length, it should only go through 1 side of the drive coupling, not both. In the absence of a confirmed mild steel source, then a spark test is the best option.

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    Ahh thank you for the correct Length of the shear pin.. I just assumed it went through all the time way..

    All working good now.. Thank you everyone for your replies

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve26 View Post
    The gib has a slot which is attached to a adjustment screw. Does this screw need to be tight in either direction clockwise or anti clockwise?
    Hello, it needs to be tight in both directions. There should another screw that will lock the adjustment screw in place so it cannot move. Maybe you found this?

  10. #30
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    Hmm I only see one screw.. But Li will have another look thanks

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve26 View Post
    Hmm I only see one screw.. But Li will have another look thanks
    On the larger machines (FP2+) the gib adjusting screw is locked with a set screw that intersects the adjusting screw at a right angle through the casting....

    As to making the adjusting screw "tight"...no, not really. That is an adjustment for setting the running clearance between the adjustable gib plate and the sliding surfaces of the slide.
    If tightened up till tight the slide will not move. Should be adjusted to give smooth light drag over the length of the slide travel...Likely somewhat tighter feeling at the outer ends of travel where the
    wear tends to be less on the slide surfaces....Adjust so as not to make things too tight at the end of travel.

    Cheers Ross

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve26 View Post
    Hmm I only see one screw.. But Li will have another look thanks
    The gib screw has an extended flat head which fits into a slot in the gib. Over time if the gib is moving slightly back and forth, it can wear that extended head, creating substantial play. Similarly if the gib screw is not locked, then it can "rock", allowing the gib to move back and forth. So if your gib is sloppy and moving back and forth, you need to identify where that slop is coming from. It could be:

    - gib slot too wide
    - gib screw worn out
    - gib screw loose because locking mechanism not working

    On my machine the screws were worn, but fortunately the previous owner had a set of three brand new screws in one of the boxes of parts


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