Please post instruction manual for HENSOLDT WETZLAR centering microscope - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    If its the same as the FP-NC's then it goes like this....Connector 3X Rear or the "Y" ram.....

    The 24v work light uses pins X3:E and X3:G With Pin X3:H provided for ground

    The scope lamp uses pins:X3:A and X3:B

    To disable the Drive motor start, Pins X3: C and 3X: D are connected together....

    Check your voltages before connecting the scope to be sure...

    Cheers Ross

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jersey John View Post
    Well the scope is working well but there is a serious piece of dirt / dust that's showing on the graticule / scale screen. Anyone stripped their scope down and given it a deep clean in this area.
    Sorry, it looks as if I missed your earlier request for a manual. All that I found was one page in the manual for my Deckel FP2. If it would still be helpful I can post that here.

    Did you take some photos in the process of strip-down and clean? I would love to see those, or at least get some notes from you about how to go about it. These would certainly be of use to someone here, either now or in the future.

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    Quote Originally Posted by der_wolf View Post
    Microscope has a round 5pos flat contact connector (I guess conventional milling machine version). Can anyone of you with the MZM's perhaps give me the correct connection plan? or just open the connector to provide a pic how it is connected right?
    Connector details in this post: Correct connector for Hensoldt-Wetzlar centering microscope?

    Since you are in Germany you can easily buy a new connector for 21 Euros from Conrad. Here is an updated link: Binder Standard Circular Connector Nominal current (details): 1 A Number of pins: 5 from Conrad.com

    The same post above also describes how it is wired. It's similar to the description that Ross has provided. On my FP2, the scope power comes from 6V provided to pins 1 and 2. Internally the scope has pins 4 and 5 connected together. This connection is sensed by the power supply and used to close a relay that disables the drive spindle.
    Last edited by ballen; 01-04-2019 at 04:55 PM.

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    Hi,
    I have the latest version of the MZM30 (The red one) with a SK40 S20x2 Deckel thread and I would like to mount this microscope on a Dufour53 milling machine whose head recieves SA40 Din 2080 devices with M16 tapping.
    Has anybody already done this? I thought initially that it was possible to remove the Sk40 shaft of the microscope and replace it by a SA40 one. Practically, I don't know how to proceed since I saw the cut-view of the microscope in the post.
    Secondly, I would like to change the électrical wire but I dont know how to remove the four bulb holder which stays in place although the four screws are removed. Thank you for your help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by phil25 View Post
    Hi,
    I have the latest version of the MZM30 (The red one) with a SK40 S20x2 Deckel thread. I thought initially that it was possible to remove the Sk40 shaft of the microscope and replace it by a SA40 one.
    Be careful, there are precision optics inside the SK40 taper, and as I recall from the cross section, they extend right up to the pull stud /thread region.

    Regarding changing the cable, here on PM there is a fairly recent thread with photos detailing the process for “my” gray type. It might well also apply to the “red” type.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    Be careful, there are precision optics inside the SK40 taper, and as I recall from the cross section, they extend right up to the pull stud /thread region.

    Regarding changing the cable, here on PM there is a fairly recent thread with photos detailing the process for “my” gray type. It might well also apply to the “red” type.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Talking about that....

    My scope came with a mushroom type protrusion instead of the drawbar targetted S20x2. Of course, as Bruce said, if you rush to remove it in order to just place a S20x2 stud and use the thing you see that there is a reflective surface on the bottom of the mushroom type thing. I guess the mirror's position axially is important...

    Not sure how to deal with this...I'll post a pic.

    BR,

    Thanos

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    In the meantime, here's the listing I found for an MZM Zentriermikroskop shank.

    If the seller's description is correct and the attachment is indeed from an MZM scope, it seems like the shank is just held by a fine pitch threading and a plain cylindrical centering portion.
    So removing the attachment is probably possible, but I don't know one is supposed to fine tune the reticle's position after a shank swap...

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    Quote Originally Posted by TNB View Post
    In the meantime, here's the listing I found for an MZM Zentriermikroskop shank.

    If the seller's description is correct and the attachment is indeed from an MZM scope, it seems like the shank is just held by a fine pitch threading and a plain cylindrical centering portion.
    So removing the attachment is probably possible, but I don't know one is supposed to fine tune the reticle's position after a shank swap...
    Link not working Tien....

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    Hi to all,

    I, recently, dag out my centering scope and used it first time, to center my indexing head with the tool for some gear cutting (I am recutting gears for the apron of an HLVH).



    It was very enjoyable to use and made my life very easy:




    So, I am intending on modifying the drawbar adapter so that I can also use it in the spindles. My example didn't come with S20x2 thread, it came with this adapter:







    The adapter carries a mirror that has the cross-hair and the centering circles (barely visible with the naked eye) so it's not just swap the adapter, I have to modify this part.

    My intention is to chuck a piece on the lathe, bore and thread it so that this adapter with fit, screwthe adapter on and turn it to, e.g. M8 thread. Then screw a custom S20x2 thread what would have a M8 internally. That's the best I can think of. Any better ideas?

    BR,
    Thanos

    PS. now that I was typing, I wondered about how that thing registers on the scope body. I hope it's not just the thread, I hope the little protrusion serves as register. Other ways, it wouldn't be much of a centering scope I guess....

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    Hi Thanos,

    M8 sounds small for a thread here. Probably ok because you won’t tighten the drawbar much, but not ideal.

    As an alternative, it looks as if the mirror is on a plug which is pressed into the mushroom. Can you press it out?

    [EDIT after Tien's comment below: my idea is that you drill a hole through the mushroom from the back and then use that hole to push/press the plug out.]

    Cheers,
    Bruce


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    Last edited by ballen; 03-12-2020 at 09:01 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    As an alternative, it looks as if the mirror is on a plug which is pressed into the mushroom. Can you press it out?
    Probably worth trying with extreme care but without knowing how tight the fit is and if it's glued, I'd call it a *very* risky business !

    Why not trying to thread the pull stud directly in order to accept some kind of S20x2 cap ?
    It's probably case hardened but it seems doable to peel the hard skin off.

    In a worst case scenario, I'd try to cut any kind of thread on the adapter with a wheel, then thread / glue a s20x2 cap on it.
    Last edited by TNB; 03-12-2020 at 09:45 AM.

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    How about putting the mirror end in a collet on the lathe and cutting off the rest it.

    After, or before, you turn or you buy a standard Deckel adapter from M16 to S20x2. Make the M16 part a bit shorter than usual so you can glue the mirror part on the end. You could turn locating features in each of the 2 parts so the mirror stays as concentric as possible.

    Jacques

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    Think you need a true cylindrical register and matching seat to keep the parts concentric. Setting the mirror relative to the threads seems questionable.....

    Cheers Ross

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    Hi to all, thanks for the replies!

    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    Hi Thanos,

    M8 sounds small for a thread here. Probably ok because you won’t tighten the drawbar much, but not ideal.

    As an alternative, it looks as if the mirror is on a plug which is pressed into the mushroom. Can you press it out?

    [EDIT after Tien's comment below: my idea is that you drill a hole through the mushroom from the back and then use that hole to push/press the plug out.]

    Cheers,
    Bruce


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hey Bruce,

    Since it's just a scope, pull stud needs to assure just that it will stay in place in the spindles. I think that even much smaller thread than M8 would be ok.

    Regarding trying to remove the mirror, I am sure where this would end... Me with some mirror pieces and a useless scope

    (if the mirror is fixed in a blind metallic plug it would be easier pushing it from the back, but it might be glued, heat might be required etc....I would like to avoid it as much as possible.)

    Quote Originally Posted by TNB View Post
    ...
    Why not trying to thread the pull stud directly in order to accept some kind of S20x2 cap ?
    It's probably case hardened but it seems doable to peel the hard skin off...
    .
    Hi Tien,

    sorry for not putting it correctly, that's what I meant by 'turning an M8 on the adapter stud'. I am sure it's soft inside, it won't be an issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by jariou View Post
    How about putting the mirror end in a collet on the lathe and cutting off the rest it.

    After, or before, you turn or you buy a standard Deckel adapter from M16 to S20x2. Make the M16 part a bit shorter than usual so you can glue the mirror part on the end. You could turn locating features in each of the 2 parts so the mirror stays as concentric as possible.

    Jacques
    Hey Jacques,

    My plan is similar to what you described, only simpler. Existing stud turned to male M8 and a S20x2 with M8 female loctited on that.

    Quote Originally Posted by AlfaGTA View Post
    Think you need a true cylindrical register and matching seat to keep the parts concentric. Setting the mirror relative to the threads seems questionable.....

    Cheers Ross
    Hi Ross,

    exactly this is what I was wondering and asked about in the previous post. I really hope that the mirror carrier, that black cylindrical part that protrudes from the thread and holds the mirror, registers in a female bore in the scope body. I don't see any other register.

    So, since the internal part of the pull stud is not to be modified, I think I'll be ok.

    Holding off the thread in order to machine as required to adapt to S20x2 is not an issue. Right, S20x2 might end up not perfectly concentric to the mirror itself, but it's just a drawbar stud, doesn't need to be, right?


    Thanks to all,
    Thanos

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    Hi to all,

    Checked the pull stud (also carrying the mirror) on my scope. No register at all, scope body is just bored out, no features to locate the mirror. Also threads are as sloppy as I remembered
    Not sure I understand...

  19. #36
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    Curious......
    Perhaps the only critical thing is the distance the mirror sits from the optics. (locating shoulder)
    Maybe the process is to fit the threaded plug w/mirror and then adjust the optics to make the scope read true to center.
    Believe Bruce posted some info about adjusting the scope to give true centered readings.
    Believe there are adjusting screws that allow moving the image. Think if you mount the scope in the spindle and setup on a good target, then rotate the scope and view from
    4 quadrants the target should remain centered. If not the optics are adjusted to move the image where it is the same no matter how the scope is rotated with the spindle.

    Cheers Ross

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlfaGTA View Post
    Curious......
    Perhaps the only critical thing is the distance the mirror sits from the optics. (locating shoulder)
    Maybe the process is to fit the threaded plug w/mirror and then adjust the optics to make the scope read true to center.
    Believe Bruce posted some info about adjusting the scope to give true centered readings.
    Believe there are adjusting screws that allow moving the image. Think if you mount the scope in the spindle and setup on a good target, then rotate the scope and view from
    4 quadrants the target should remain centered. If not the optics are adjusted to move the image where it is the same no matter how the scope is rotated with the spindle.

    Cheers Ross
    This makes sense Ross.

    In this case, I would have expected the stud being tightly fixed, or even loctited to the body of the scope, which it wasn't. But again, this is an old tool, who knows what it's been through....

    Anyhow, when I finally find the time to modify the stud I'll keep the original thread that screws in the body, so, at least, I won't induce any extra errors. And then I'll check it in the spindle. Now, with that stud there, I have no way to keep it in the spindle...

    BR,
    Thanos

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