Repairing Heindenhain VRZ 753B + LS803 scales - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Overhead crane... thatīd be sweet I got overhead piping lol
    Donīt have any other accesories as heads or tables, just some wise and Dividing head. But Iīm planning to put up some small rail in the roof to assist with those and material. But Iīll put that in another thread so we donīt pollute this one.

    Anyway, I got the 803 scale off and apart. my my my it was dirty. But not too much chips in there. Tomorrow Iīll go pick up a "sacrifical" plier for conversion and a fresh bottle of isoprop. Hopefully Iīll have the lips here on Wednesday.

    Did you take or make any special precation when cleaning the reader head or how did you do? You talked about dipping in isoprop, Iīm concerned pushing dirt further in where it shouldnīt be. Maybe vaccum it carefully to dry and get loose stuff out?

    Thanks
    Henrik

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    Hi Henrik,

    In this post, Dave reports that out-of-the-box Channelock 356 nippers are perfect for this. They have a knife-and-anvil design. If I were in your shoes, I would order a pair of these. They are about 25 Euros if you order them from the USA, perhaps you can find them at comparable price in Europe.

    Now that I understand better how the reader head works, I would be more thorough about the cleaning. (More information about these scales can be found in this post.)

    Carefully remove the lamp-carrier, by removing the little metal pins pushed through the rubber stubs. Use sharp-point tweezers, and work over a big tray that will catch the pins when you drop them by accident. Then spray isopropyl (2-propanol) liberally over all the components, including the lens and optical elements. Use something that squirts the fluid with a bit of pressure to wash away dust and goo. Finally, blow dry with a lens-cleaning hand blower, NOT with compressed air. I suggest you use pure 2-propanol, often the pharmacy version is 30% water and 70% 2-propanol.

    Don't disturb the five little screws. These modulate the amount of light that falls on the different photocells. But the overall design is quite robust, if you take it apart gently, clean it, and put it back together gently, it will work better than before.

    Cheers,
    Bruce

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  4. #43
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    Hi,

    Got hold of a perfect plier on my way home, 5€ at "Biltema", and trimmed it a bit on the benchgrinder and with the dremel. Flattened the outside jaws to reduce maring, was good enough on these old scratched scales but on a nice looking scale one might put a tape on the outside. On my scale I can barely tell the maring from the other scratches. Anyway it worked like a charm. Was going to install a stop screw as well but it was not needed.
    Got hold of a fresh bottle of isoprop as well, the proper one. It cleaned up nicely.
    The reader head however Iīm a bit terrified of. Every screw and pin is drenched in glue. So for the moment I stay at having it cleaned from outside as to say. Looked carefully and wiped carefully to get all loose dirt out. Tomorrow I do final cleaning. Also been thinking of simple tool to press back the aluminium lip holding the lip seal.
    Hope to get the seals one of these days.

    20160119_193257.jpg20160119_193315.jpg20160119_193153.jpg

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  6. #44
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    Hi Henrik,

    It looks good, you are on your way to freshly-renovated scales!


    Quote Originally Posted by Lumberjack View Post
    The reader head however Iīm a bit terrified of. Every screw and pin is drenched in glue. So for the moment I stay at having it cleaned from outside as to say.
    That glue is EXPOXY. It won't be disturbed by the 2-propanol. You want to use one of those pipette-squeeze bottles, that has a very fine tube as a spout, you squeeze on the bottle and it shoots out a thin stream at reasonable pressure. Just use this to flush out everything very liberally, then blow away the excess or just let it evaporate. If it makes you feel better, this is the sort of wash that every printed circuit board gets after manufacture. The only active elements in this read head are a resistor and some solar cells; they are designed for that sort of wash.

    Also been thinking of simple tool to press back the aluminium lip holding the lip seal.
    It's not necessary. The lip seals pushing against each other are naturally forced into the openings. I had originally planned to glue the lips back in with cyanoacrylate adhesive, but it simply was not needed.

    Let us know how it works out.

    Cheers, Bruce
    Last edited by ballen; 01-20-2016 at 01:54 AM.

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  8. #45
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    Believe current offerings from Heidenhain have the seals fit loos enough to be removed and replaces by simply sliding them out of the channel.
    No spreading needed or opening of the channel is needed...I take from this that the factory does not think any additional locking or retention of the seals is needed above a slip fit
    in the channel.....

    Bit of RTV at the ends where the seals meet the end covers is all i have ever done....
    Cheers Ross

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    Hi,

    A sudden rise in temperature called for attendency to outdoor duties for a while.

    The isoprop is indeed a good friend, why I mentioned the glue/epoxy is I was/is a bit cautious about taking apart those glued togeher things unless proven broken/not working - donīt fix it if itīs not broken or it may just be broken and then need fixing of course

    Anyway, got it together and I know there are several votes for just leaving them as is but......

    tool.jpg
    An M6 hex head bolt was like designed to fit inside the 803 scale...
    Just grind it a bit flat parallell to two bolt head sides to make a bit extra allowance for the rubber lip.

    hold-loose.jpg
    Insert carefully leave some space btw washer and lip.

    press-down.jpg
    Press it down and tighten the nut CAREFULLY while ensuring the bolt does not rotate. Pressing the washer down pushes the lipseal out in the slot.
    Be gentle on the crimping, only very Little force/torque is needed

    crimped.jpg
    Crimped

    Needed or not - I just Could not resist. I put a small crimp approx every 3-4cm.
    If it hadnīt been rather simple fix and by chance fit so well without any major toolmaking for this particular scale I would just have left it.

    installed.jpg
    Installed and the counter tics

    Thanks for encouragement and guidance!

    Bolt /screw/fastner dear friends goes by many names...

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    Well done, glad it works, nice crimping tool. I didn't quite get it, did you do a full isopropyl wash or just the minimum needed?

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    A minimum wash?
    Like a small hosing of the bottom part with the window and photocells. Dried it and looked carefully with the lupp it looked clean with no streaks or debris just before inserting it back in the scale.

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    For additional info...Thought some might like to see the difference in the extrusion on an LS 904 scale (FP-NC) ....
    Note the dual notches and the shape to the seal groove....somewhat different from the scale bodies shown above....



    Cheers Ross

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    Ross, I assume the sealing lips go into the lower pair of slots, the ones with the little hook. What are the upper pair of slots used for? Are there two layers of sealing lips? Cheers, Bruce

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    Bruce:
    Upper grooves are not used as far as i can tell from what is left of the seals.
    Does not seem to have any function as far as i can tell.
    Cheers Ross

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    Hi,

    Just adding some addition info like Ross.

    Did the other two scales as well, one LS501 and one LS503. They are very similar, the Picture is of the 503. The both take a lip seal with part number 360 502 02.

    ls503.jpg

  19. #53
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    Wow, great thread.
    I just bought today a VRZ 760B with 3 scales. I was wondering how to service them.

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  21. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by happymarius View Post
    I just bought today a VRZ 760B with 3 scales. I was wondering how to service them.
    Is it working OK? What kind of scales? A good test is to measure the distance between the two most-distant reference marks.

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    I only have one pic that I took while with seller.I will post more later . I have some shopping do to do.
    They seem ok. I moved them alond and it displayed values. How acurate ? TBD.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20160225_164647.jpg  

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    Accuracy is built into the scale.....If they read with no errors then i think the accuracy is as good as the scale, provided there are no electronic glitches.
    Cheers Ross

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    I will start a new tread tomorrow (about my scales ) when I can post some pictures.
    Don't want to hijack this post. They seem to be working good. How accurate ?
    Don't know ...

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    I had a scale repaired while I watched back around 1998. The technician used flowable silicone to glue the new lip seals in place. I need lip seal material for my scales. I've given up on getting any support out of Heidenhain. Only person worth a damn there is Rick Ankowiak - who I haven't been able to reach in over
    a decade.

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    Dear Reo12,

    If you read through this entire thread you will find the exact Heidenhain part number for the lip seal material, and contact information for suppliers in the USA. Other people here have been able to obtain the material within a day or two and without problems in both the USA and Europe. The silicone seal is typically used to seal the end caps on the scales, rather than the lip seal material. Regarding Heidenhain technical support, I have had very good experiences with one individual based in the USA, who answered my questions via email promptly and correctly.

    Cheers,
    Bruce

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    Hello all,

    I have an old Heidenhain 731B on my equally old Bridgeport mill. It has stopped working. It just displays a single zero on both axis. As a hobby user I don't have too much resources to have it repaired professionally. But I really loved it. I have replaced the 12v regulator as it was given way to much voltage. However I have discovered a burnt component on the display pcb, possibly because of a voltage issue, who knows. But the component is burnt beyond recognition...

    Is there anybody with schematics or knowledge what this component should be? My guess is an capacitor, but that does not help much without a capacity.

    I post in this thread because ballen seems very knowledgable... and maybe there are others with the same problem.

    Off course I would appreciate any help a lot!

    1.jpg
    2.jpg


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