Thread: Maho MH600E ballscrew

Hi, I have recently bought a Maho MH600E and I am in the proses of retrofitting to linuxcnc. I haven’t power up the machine, I have strip the machine to inspect everything before move the axis. While cleaning I saw balls on the bottom of the machine, the match the groove off ball screw and the nut of the screw make noise while I turn by hand. I need to remove the ball screw and inspect it but I can’t remove the pulley from the end of ball screw. After removing the plate with the 6 screw, the pulley rotates freely. But there is not obvious way to continue.

Is there any service manual for the Maho MH600E, I have searched, and found none.

Is this the X axis or the Maho Z (Y axis)? I sent you a PM as the drawings are too big to post.

It looks to me like you need to pop the steel plate off, and there is a some sort of shaft coupling underneath (item #22). The user manual doesn't provide any further information on this except for the vertical axis ballscrew, which has a friction clutch built into it. Please post pictures as you disassmble it, as that will help the rest of us with MAHO's.

Please share your LinuxCNC plans. Are you keeping and interfacing into the indramat, glass scales and Maho relay board?

Since my Phillips 432 has an old 8088 CPU which only supports 2.5D motion, I am also considering a retrofit.
https://forum.linuxcnc.org/12-millin...o-mh400e#95934

Do you have a Phillips 432/10 user manual? I am looking for the list of which signal goes over which inpu/output pin to the MAHO relay panel.
Mark

Did you get the pulley off?

Hello, I have managed to take it off, thanks to the drawings you send me, thank you for that. It is indeed a friction clutch. I will post some photos as soon I go home.
I am planning to keep the servo and servo amplifiers, and put encoders to the end of the tachometer on the servo, and feed the encoders to linuxcnc. The solution for linear encoders on the table and head is not as attractive because it will have unstable performance and oscillations.

The friction clutch is shown on top of the pulley, when you push the plate on it, it expands and grabs the shaft and the pulley. It has very tight tolerances with the pulley and even more to the shaft. Now I am trying to unscrew the nut that holds together the inner races of the bearings.

While pulling the pulley from the shaft the outer part of the clutch broke because there was a mark on the shaft from the clutch.

Originally Posted by DrimJohn

Hello, I have managed to take it off, thanks to the drawings you send me, thank you for that. It is indeed a friction clutch. I will post some photos as soon I go home.

Thanks for showing that. So did you just use a puller to remove it, or is there some trick to it?

I am planning to keep the servo and servo amplifiers, and put encoders to the end of the tachometer on the servo, and feed the encoders to linuxcnc. The solution for linear encoders on the table and head is not as attractive because it will have unstable performance and oscillations.

The system should not be prone to oscillations as long as the ballscrew, mounts etc are not too worn. If you have the Heidenhain LS403 glass scales and EXE converter board installed, conversion should be very easy.

I posted a thread on the LinuxCNC forum, which has my proposed wiring changes to interface with the Indramat and L3403's.
Retrofitting a 1986 Maho MH4��E - LinuxCNC
Mark

I have used a puller. Put longer screws to the plate, WD40 to the clutch, grab the plate and push the shaft. The clutch has made a rotation mark to the shaft, and it wasn’t easy to come off.
I don’t know the history of the machine, but it is 30 years old machine and chances is that there will be slops at least in one of the axis, that will limit the P,I and D on the settings in linuxcnc and rigidly and or speed of the system. The previous owner has started the conversion to linuxcnc with scales and mesa card and failed. When I make the conversion with the encoders (and gain experience) I may use the scales for double closed loop.

I used to be able to get mine to just drop off the shaft while it was still in the machine. I'd reach under the front of the machine loosen the screws and it would come off. I could then adjust the clutch and reassemble. I find it odd that a puller would be needed to remove it.

The mark on the shaft is the reason that the clutch didn’t come off by hand, and eventually broke