MV-JR Parts Diagram/Tool Changer Advise
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default MV-JR Parts Diagram/Tool Changer Advise

    Does anyone have the parts diagrams for the MV-JR? I have several different Mori and Fanuc manuals for it but none have any mechanical parts diagrams, mostly just electrical/controls. Mines an 86.

    I have read several posts describing the function and repair of the tool changer on these units so I have an idea of what is going on but would feel better with a manual before going any further. My issue is with the manual unclamp air cylinder, the ATC cam system works as it should but the manual cylinder was not cycling, it sounded like a bad/stuck solenoid. After removing the cowling the valves and airlines were all functioning properly but I was not able to actuate the air cylinder. I was able to remove top of the cylinder in place to find a rust ring freezing the piston to the cylinder wall. After some soaking in kroil I was able to free the piston and slightly depress it and clean the crud from the cylinder. I had hoped this would be enough to get it going but no dice. Before it sounded locked in place, now it sounds like it is bypassing air. Any recommendations appreciated. Looks like the spindle motor may need to come out to get much further.

    As a work around, is there a way to release through the MDI using the ATC cycle/cam or any way to remove the holders from the pots?

    Thanks,
    Mike


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default

    Fresh eyes answered part of my own question. The holders just pull out of the pots. I figured they did but did not want to pull too hard thinking the retaining balls may be unlocked somehow by the cam on the tool changer arm. So as a work around for now I can just use the ATC but need to be careful to reassign the tools by their number in the system memory rather than the pot numbers.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    2,094
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    576
    Likes (Received)
    483

    Default

    Finding "a rust ring freezing the piston to the cylinder wall." begs the question are you running an air dryer for your compressed air system? Also maybe ohm out the solenoids one could be going bad???

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug8cat View Post
    are you running an air dryer for your compressed air system?
    The machine is new to me. I imagine the previous owner either did not or did not add oil to the system at some point. I bought it from a local shop because it was not being used, I do not know how long it had sat. All other air related functions are working such as the air cylinder that drives the pots down on the ATC. Surprisingly the system is not even leaking down.

    Quote Originally Posted by doug8cat View Post
    Also maybe ohm out the solenoids one could be going bad???
    I did not check the resistance of the solenoids but disconnected the output lines and verified function. My first thought (and hope) was a bad or stuck solenoid but I do not believe that to be the case. From what I can see the upper cylinder is not in the best shape due to corrosion and should really be pulled and rebuilt/replaced.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Oakland, CA
    Posts
    2,856
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    492
    Likes (Received)
    884

    Default

    There are a few of us on here with intimate knowledge of that tool changer. 1st thing I would check is to make sure the oil reservoir for the knockout cylinder is full and that the air is bled out of the oil line. 2nd thing to check is the gap between the end of the knockout bar and the bottom of the knockout rod connected to the cylinder. You can peek in behind the spindle motor to see the gap. I recall the spec is either two or 3 mm. I have the parts book for the machine in a .pdf file. Send me a PM or e-mail at dmcgearsatyahoodotcom. Is this a Yasnac control or Fanuc machine? Do you know how to access the tool assignment page in the control so that you can assign tool numbers to pot numbers? You can assign tool numbers to pockets and edit them here.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan from Oakland View Post
    Send me a PM or e-mail at dmcgearsatyahoodotcom. Is this a Yasnac control or Fanuc machine? Do you know how to access the tool assignment page in the control so that you can assign tool numbers to pot numbers? You can assign tool numbers to pockets and edit them here.
    Email sent, thanks! It is a Fanuc 10M, I have a good handle on reassigning tool numbers to pots in the PC control; had to figure that one out to get past the "tool assigned to the empty holder" alarm. The only reason I was messing with getting the manual unlock working was because I did not know I could pull the holders from the magazine. Now that I have figured that out I probably would have let this sleeping dog lie as the ATC was functioning fine so I do not believe the adjustment nut or hydraulic oil were at fault, at least not until I messed with it.

    when I attempted to free the air cylinder by removing the top end cap I cut an o-ring at the base. This let air into the oil and caused a missed tool change with the ATC once reassembled. It also blew oil all over the place and generally sounded like I F'ed something up. I don't believe I broke anything yet that was not already broke just trying to keep it that way.

    I have since removed the air/hydraulic mechanism for repair and/or cleaning, it was really not that bad, I only had to loosen the spindle motor and slide it forward to lift it out as a unit.

    At current the biggest thing I need help with is figuring out how to release the tool holder from the tool change position. Reading some earlier posts, one by Dan I believe, it sounds like I need to remove the cap from the middle of the tool changing arm to release the locks and return it to the home position. I am going to dig into this tomorrow.

    Current position:
    img_8420.jpg

    Corrosion in the air cylinder:
    img_8405.jpg

    img_8408.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Oakland, CA
    Posts
    2,856
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    492
    Likes (Received)
    884

    Default

    You don't need to disassemble the arm. There is a control screen that will let you manually operate the toolchanger. I'm not at the shop at the moment, and I need to be in front of the machine to get to the screen. Recall that you access the screen from the same location as the tool table, but I have to check. There are also M Codes that do the same functions but. . . . I recall the following options- Pot Up, Pot Down, etc. I'll get back to you, but again, no need to disassemble the arm. Do you have the Mori operators manual? if not you need to order one from MS. All this is in the manual.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default

    img_8421.jpg

    img_8422.jpg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default

    The manual ATC controls in the PC screen were not able to be used since a tool was in the collet without a way to release it. I used a porta power to release the tool then removed the holders by taking out the keeper (??? The plate in the middle that holds the tool) then turning the tool holder 90 degrees to remove it. I then tried the manual controls again but had alarms for “arm not at origin” and “pot down”. The manual controls cleared the pot down error after I plugged off the air line but could not get the arm not at origin error to clear to use the “arm forward” or “arm reverse” commands. I was able to just push the arm back to the origin and with the gentle help of a small bottle jack (pushing up following the cam) and all alarms cleared and controls returned.

    I cleaned the components from the air/hydraulic unit, honed the cylinder, and replaced the cut oring and reassembled, tomorrow hopefully just bleed, bolt back to the machine, and back in service.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  10. Likes Dan from Oakland liked this post
  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    3

    Default MV-JR Parts Diagram/Tool Changer Advise

    I cant seem to manage to get out of my own way with this thing! Finished the mechanical issues and reinstalled the unclamp mechanism today. All ATC alarms were cleared. I had the bright idea to test an ATC command without any tools in the holders to watch the clamp mechanism. I did this before I retightened the spindle motor that I had loosened to remove the unclamp mechanism. Everything started great until the spindle orientation errored out since the motor was not attached to the spindle causing an automatic power cutoff. Everything turned back on but had the dreaded EMG at the bottom of the NC control that was followed by a "35 ATC Power Off" alarm. The ATC 35 alarm was cleared by resetting the K8 and K9 keeper relay settings to 0 but the EMG remained. All fuses I could find were good but I noticed the ready green lights on the axis control boards were not on but the one on the main board and the spindle control board were on. It seems like it is still in an emergency stop condition. I have tried all combinations of holding the emergency release button, doing the IPL soft overtravel reset and checked all the keeper relay settings against photos I took when everything was running well. Is there some emergency release in the PC control? I looked through the latter but don't really know what I am looking for.

    Edit

    After typing this I found a good thread started by Garwood that explains how to search the ladder for an alarm. I’ll give that a shot in the morning and triple check any wiring I touched.

    Mori-Seiki MV-65 Fanuc 10M stuck with EMG on screen- Could use some help


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •