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Broken drill 4140 roll 120” long

schiada96

Plastic
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Location
North Carolina
Second shit broke a .57 dia drill 10 inches deep. I need the drill burned out.
Location is Kernersville North Carolina
Jeff
336 932 6570


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Was that a typo or a Freudian slip? You might get more responses listing this under manufacturing resources.
 
A tap burner such as is being discussed in the general thread about removing broken bolts will do the job. The machine is sufficiently small it can be hauled to the job rather than taking your roll to the machine.
 
A tap burner such as is being discussed in the general thread about removing broken bolts will do the job. The machine is sufficiently small it can be hauled to the job rather than taking your roll to the machine.

Thanks


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Most trodes come in 16" length and longer ones yet can be had.
Minus the chuck - guide - and a little ---- I've drilled through 11" thick Inco blocks before.
Does take multiple trodes but can be done.

My problem with that job would be 10" deep x 120" long ....
That sumbitch must weigh a ton or two or three ......
Wonder what did the 2nd shit supervisor say what happened?
 
HUH..the broken piece is 10" down a hole..that piece may be very short..maybe just the tip of the drill bit.:(

At least that's how I read it!

Stuart

The drill was an extension drill. The hole was about 10.25 deep. About 8 inches of drill in it. We will pay well for someone to come to us and remove the drill.


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Most trodes come in 16" length and longer ones yet can be had.
Minus the chuck - guide - and a little ---- I've drilled through 11" thick Inco blocks before.
Does take multiple trodes but can be done.

My problem with that job would be 10" deep x 120" long ....
That sumbitch must weigh a ton or two or three ......
Wonder what did the 2nd shit supervisor say what happened?

He told me it just broke. We make lots of different rolls,some more difficult than others.
We will pay to have it removed, any takers?


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Hi schiada96:
Has nobody tried to drill out the broken HSS drill (I'm ASSUMING it's HSS) with a carbide drill.
We used to do this regularly when the apprentice broke drills in deep waterlines of injection mold bases (not all of our apprentices were all that bright and even the good ones had the occasional disaster)
I even still have a home made extension drill 1/4" diameter and 12" long made for one of those moments.
I vee'd the end of a 1/4" ejector pin cutoff (nice and hard and stiff too) and just brazed on a carbide blank then hand ground a couple of flutes on it and pointed it by hand.

That thing is probably 40 years old.
Here's a picture.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com
 

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Hi schiada96:
Has nobody tried to drill out the broken HSS drill (I'm ASSUMING it's HSS) with a carbide drill.
We used to do this regularly when the apprentice broke drills in deep waterlines of injection mold bases (not all of our apprentices were all that bright and even the good ones had the occasional disaster)
I even still have a home made extension drill 1/4" diameter and 12" long made for one of those moments.
I vee'd the end of a 1/4" ejector pin cutoff (nice and hard and stiff too) and just brazed on a carbide blank then hand ground a couple of flutes on it and pointed it by hand.

That thing is probably 40 years old.
Here's a picture.

Cheers

Marcus
www.implant-mechanix.com
www.vancouverwireedm.com

Hey
No we have not tried a carbide drill yet, I’m hopeful someone can burn it out for us. It is a good idea. Yes is is just a HSS drill but a extension drill, the hole is for grease to force the big bearing off the shaft, we asked to relocate the hole to off center a bit but they said no . We can cut the head of the shaft off and bore for a new end on the tube, very thick wall tube at that. The ends are 4140.
Thanks
Jeff


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Hey
No we have not tried a carbide drill yet, I’m hopeful someone can burn it out for us. It is a good idea. Yes is is just a HSS drill but a extension drill, the hole is for grease to force the big bearing off the shaft, we asked to relocate the hole to off center a bit but they said no . We can cut the head of the shaft off and bore for a new end on the tube, very thick wall tube at that. The ends are 4140.
Thanks
Jeff


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Break carbide off 7 in deep and it will be in a edm for weeks. I'm guessing its going to be tough to find a machine big enough to do this. Good luck [emoji106]

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Hi White Lightning:
You wrote: "Break carbide off 7 in deep and it will be in a edm for weeks"

Yep...you'll get no argument from me on that.

So it's all about which decision gives the least pain if things go wrong.
The OP has indicated he could cut the spoiled end off (at least it sounds that way) if all goes to shit.

If that's the case there's not that much to lose by trying to drill it out.
Just don't break off the carbide drill...easy to say, right?:D

Seriously though; I've had to do this maybe a dozen times over the 45 years I've been a toolbreaker, and I've always gotten away with it.
If you look at that drill I butchered together, you can see the flutes are really shallow so the core is nice and stiff.
It's the same diameter as the hole it's going down, so it centers itself nicely and won't walk off the broken drill web and crunch things.

Once you get a feel for how hard you can push it, it goes pretty good...at least that's how I remember it.
I always had to sharpen my carbide drill a lot, and I did better with the hole horizontal so I could blow out the chips better.
A long skinny tube on the end of the air gun helped too.

Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
Vancouver Wire EDM -- Wire EDM Machining

On a last note...if the OP really wants to find an EDM vendor, Reliable EDM in Texas is probably his best bet.
They specialize in big stuff, but I'll bet it's going to be an expensive hole: a ten foot long roll is a fair sized beast even to ship and rig.
 
Hi White Lightning:
You wrote: "Break carbide off 7 in deep and it will be in a edm for weeks"

Yep...you'll get no argument from me on that.

So it's all about which decision gives the least pain if things go wrong.
The OP has indicated he could cut the spoiled end off (at least it sounds that way) if all goes to shit.

If that's the case there's not that much to lose by trying to drill it out.
Just don't break off the carbide drill...easy to say, right?:D

Seriously though; I've had to do this maybe a dozen times over the 45 years I've been a toolbreaker, and I've always gotten away with it.
If you look at that drill I butchered together, you can see the flutes are really shallow so the core is nice and stiff.
It's the same diameter as the hole it's going down, so it centers itself nicely and won't walk off the broken drill web and crunch things.

Once you get a feel for how hard you can push it, it goes pretty good...at least that's how I remember it.
I always had to sharpen my carbide drill a lot, and I did better with the hole horizontal so I could blow out the chips better.
A long skinny tube on the end of the air gun helped too.

Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
Vancouver Wire EDM -- Wire EDM Machining

On a last note...if the OP really wants to find an EDM vendor, Reliable EDM in Texas is probably his best bet.
They specialize in big stuff, but I'll bet it's going to be an expensive hole: a ten foot long roll is a fair sized beast even to ship and rig.

Thanks for all the advise!

Best
Jeff


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He told me it just broke. We make lots of different rolls,some more difficult than others.
We will pay to have it removed, any takers?

You could try Cammann Inc. They have made tap disintegrators for years, They last time I was there, they were talking about a bigger portable unit.
Ask for Hank Cammann if he isn't retired. 440 965 4051 He may know if someone has a portable for hire.
I've got one, but not portable.
 
Tap burners such as the one I had are small, say 2' x 2', maybe 3 1/2' tall. I don't think it would work horizontal. I'd just stand the roll upright and lift the tap burner into position with a forklift. Crib the mast with a 4 x 4 so it doesn't settle. The working business on the burner could be swung around so it wasn't over the base. Yes, it will be a little messy, a kids swimming pool could fix that. If you are afraid of plant safety, well, that is what weekends are for.
 
before i tried to burn it i would point up a 1/4" 7018

weld it to the bit

first grind a masonry bit for left hand and relieve the carbide to less than

the body to see if you can get it to turn

if it turns you can blow it out with air

mash a copper tube into a u shape for the air

if it is breaking through it could be driven through also
 
Tap burners such as the one I had are small, say 2' x 2', maybe 3 1/2' tall. I don't think it would work horizontal. I'd just stand the roll upright and lift the tap burner into position with a forklift. Crib the mast with a 4 x 4 so it doesn't settle. The working business on the burner could be swung around so it wasn't over the base. Yes, it will be a little messy, a kids swimming pool could fix that. If you are afraid of plant safety, well, that is what weekends are for.

We have a pit to assemble rolls, a box can be made for water for horizontal burning tho. We just need the drill out!


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before i tried to burn it i would point up a 1/4" 7018

weld it to the bit

first grind a masonry bit for left hand and relieve the carbide to less than

the body to see if you can get it to turn

if it turns you can blow it out with air

mash a copper tube into a u shape for the air

if it is breaking through it could be driven through also

Thanks for the idea , unfortunately the drill broke off about 2” deep in the hole.? We have stick weld capable machines.


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i don't know if you have the cross hole in it yet

can you drill the cross hole than pack it with grease and drive a pin

in the cross hole
 








 
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