Edming copper on manual machine
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  1. #1
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    Default Edming copper on manual machine

    Hi

    Just wondering if anyone has any setting tips for edming a small internal hole into a copper ring on my Baron max manual sink edm with orbicut (machine similar to charmilles 2LC)

    Cheers Kev

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    Default

    Anyone pretty please ?

    Cheers Kev

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    Default Info please

    Hi Kev,

    We could make some suggestions if we knew a bit more than just, "edming a small internal hole into a copper ring".
    C'mon, give us a hand...

    What kind of "copper" ring (pure or alloy)?
    What is the "small hole" diameter and tolerance?
    Total depth-of-cut?
    What surface finish is required?
    "Internal hole" also needs to be defined to determine electrode making/holding.

    Help us, help you (I hope a customer isn't waiting)

    Bud Guitrau


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    edm-copper.jpgHi Bud

    I've been trying to find my old copy of your great edm book at home but not been successful yet ...

    I was just after some kinda general settings but anything more specific would be great too .

    Material is pure copper (C101 C102 etc )

    Copper , Telco or Copper tungsten I have to hand for electrode

    Tolerances quite open +- 0.3mm

    Finish nothing fussy.

    Machine : Baron max ke-320 se with orbiting head.

    Have attatched pic to show detail ... 8mm dia semi circle to solid to semi circle slot.

    I might try and mill out some with ball nose where possible.

    Thanks for any help

    Cheers Kev

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    Default A part-answer, sorry.

    Even though I can’t make out any dimensions on your drawing, from your description of an open tolerance and finish, this should be easy, Kev.

    Not knowing quantities, I'll assume this is a single-part. (Production quantities may differ) While copper-tungsten rod will wear less, it will cost more and the lack of flushing can become problematic. Again, without knowing the diameter, I’ll throw darts blindfolded and suggest using a coreless copper tube for through-hole flushing, using spindle-rotation if available.

    Without knowing the finished hole diameter, I can’t suggest an electrode-size or overcut, but I’d go with an electrode small enough to allow you to go in “hot”, while still leaving stock for clean-up and straightening via your orbiting feature.

    I don’t know your machine, but for Cu vs. Cu; you must use a negative-polarity electrode and high-frequency generator settings (carbide settings are a good start if you have them). In this combination, electrode wear will be high – at best, a minimum of 100+%, depending upon your settings, but tubes are cheap... time is not.

    In your case, EDM is short for, "Eat Dat Metal". With little chance of failure or scrap, I'd say "Go for it" and let us know your results. "What you learn on your own, is often better than what you are taught" - BG

    Seeking more and better advice from the rest of this excellent forum... if anyone else can actually see the drawing-dimensions and can offer better-founded advice, both Kev and I would appreciate it.

    Bud Guitrau

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    Default

    edm-copper.jpg

    Hi Bud

    Thank you for your help.

    Drawing is small on the forum for some reason but if you save it to desktop it is then zoomable

    Going sideways with orbit head so no spinning available.

    Full diameter cut is only through approx. 3.5mm deep web the rest either side is open for flushing.

    Quantity is 6 off at a time a few times a year i'm guessing.

    I can change to negative pol and use carbide capacitor box. Not sure what you mean about high frequency ..do you mean On / Off times ?

    Thanks greatly for your advice.

    Cheers Kev

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    Default

    Kev,

    Yes, high-frequency refers to low on- and off-times. That's why I suggested beginning with carbide settings. They will be similar to Cu vs. Cu. and you can expect high electrode wear. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

    Bud


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