Mitsubishi MV Series Quirks, Tips and Tricks

I'm loving our new Mitsubishi MV 1200-R. However there are a few things that I've had to learn the hard way. I am hoping that there are some Mits users out there who might care to share some tips and features that they have found to be useful that are peculiar to the MV series.

Here are a couple I've found so far:

--When wiring small holes (<.080" or so) the Corner Master control will hold back the feedrate for the skims so much that the resulting hole will be oversize a couple of tenths. The solution I use is to change the CM-S "in" to +10 for the cut. I had to make myself a note to remember to turn it on and off...I hope Mitsubishi can fix it someday.

--If I change the E-pack settings from within the program, such as "E7070" for a VG of 80, the Straightness Compensation is turned off. This could be a problem, since usually the machine needs to tip the U and V about a tenth per inch of height. Better to make up a new Epack by copying the "stock" one and change the VG in it.

Anyone else found any little quirks or tips they can give?

I've talked with a couple local Mits techs. There is not a lot of these machines in the U.S. Thus why there may be a lack of responses. Our company has an MV2400S and may be purchasing an MV4800. I run our MV2400, but I am nowhere near a point in operating this machine that I would feel comfortable giving any advice, tips, or tricks. I have only been running a Wire EDM since June of '14. And have only been in the machining industry since February of '14. I don't even trust myself a lot of times. lol. But I'll be checking this thread daily to see if anyone post anything I can use.

I also love our MV1200R. We have a RA90 and a FA10S as well. We have found that the MV is better and faster but, more fussy. We have found we need more frequent cleaning, especially the lower head. We have had the nut that holds the lower flush cap stick on. The first one did not have flats and was ruined trying to remove it. The second one has flats and I cut a wrench to aid in removal. We only barely tighten it now. We have seen the machine not realize that it is not cutting when the power feeders are at the end of life and need to be indexed. Not the slow drop in speed but a cliff! The machine will run, the wire will run but, no forward movement. On the size thing, our older machines left a "tenth" per side and the MV cuts more on size. Also watch your water level! If you run low on water while cutting the machine goes into alarm (AXIS CAN NOT MOVE) and stops badly because the linear motors need cooling water and are very unhappy without it. OK, that's what I have off the top of my head. I'll be back if I think of anything else.

We have an angled parting line that needs to be to a tenth. Mits prescribes a method for cutting a test "wedge" punch, drawing the resulting sizes and graphically getting the adjustments for the Z values.

Mits uses a "Straightness Compensation" feature where the U and V tip away from the work about .0001/inch of height in order to account for wire wear while conserving wire. I just realized that is NOT active during taper cutting. So either the calibration test piece needs to be the same height as the actual part you will cut OR you need to speed up the wire so that it doesn't wear so much as it travels down the kerf.

I've been having some trouble with the machine threading the wire on an MV 1200. When the AT fails to thread the wire on the first attempt and reverses the wire direction, I have to grab the briefly hold onto the wire while the spool is still turning so the wire backs up slightly, then sort of shove it downwards. Please don't think that this was the first thing that I attempted to fix the problem. Absolutely I cleaned the machines, but the problem persisted. The issue is lies where the lower roller grabs a hold of the wire and threads it on through the machine. It used to be an easy fix to just simply pull out the lower roller and clean it as well as the sled but recently have done both of those. On the inspection tab under at maintenance its saying theres an issue with the "Miscellaneous". Rather than taking the machine apart and searching for the answers, I just LIGHTLY "force" the wire by hand, or better yet encourage it. Has anyone else experienced issues like these? what needs doing to resolve them?

georgecassimus said:

I've been having some trouble with the machine threading the wire on an MV 1200. When the AT fails to thread the wire on the first attempt and reverses the wire direction, I have to grab the briefly hold onto the wire while the spool is still turning so the wire backs up slightly, then sort of shove it downwards. Please don't think that this was the first thing that I attempted to fix the problem. Absolutely I cleaned the machines, but the problem persisted. The issue is lies where the lower roller grabs a hold of the wire and threads it on through the machine. It used to be an easy fix to just simply pull out the lower roller and clean it as well as the sled but recently have done both of those. On the inspection tab under at maintenance its saying theres an issue with the "Miscellaneous". Rather than taking the machine apart and searching for the answers, I just LIGHTLY "force" the wire by hand, or better yet encourage it. Has anyone else experienced issues like these? what needs doing to resolve them?

Click to expand...

I have and know exactly what you are talking about. It is one of two things, the wire can shave off in the lower head near the rectification plate (it will create a tiny brass version of a steel wool pad) This is what you are "encouraging" your wire to go through. Or the bearings in the lower roller are shot. The bearings can go bad and not seem bad at all.

My money is on the mini steel/brass wool ball.. take the lower head apart lmk when you find it lol.

Hello guys,
Can any of you teach me how to run the MV1200s with the door open. I have some jobs that the part is way too big to fit in the tank and i would like to run it with the door open. I was trying once and i had the water splash over me everywhere...LOL.
thank guys.

georgecassimus said:

I've been having some trouble with the machine threading the wire on an MV 1200. When the AT fails to thread the wire on the first attempt and reverses the wire direction, I have to grab the briefly hold onto the wire while the spool is still turning so the wire backs up slightly, then sort of shove it downwards. Please don't think that this was the first thing that I attempted to fix the problem. Absolutely I cleaned the machines, but the problem persisted. The issue is lies where the lower roller grabs a hold of the wire and threads it on through the machine. It used to be an easy fix to just simply pull out the lower roller and clean it as well as the sled but recently have done both of those. On the inspection tab under at maintenance its saying theres an issue with the "Miscellaneous". Rather than taking the machine apart and searching for the answers, I just LIGHTLY "force" the wire by hand, or better yet encourage it. Has anyone else experienced issues like these? what needs doing to resolve them?

Click to expand...

I have experienced this as well... What I have found out from the Mitsubishi tech was that there is a small black plastic piece in your lower head. This piece has little holes in it that water shoots through and grabs your wire and sucks it down and out the back of the machine. To get to it, you have to pull off the top part of your lower head by removing the 4 screws under plastic caps as well as the lines that go to the head. Below that, there will be the piece you are looking for mounted with 2 Phillips head screws.

Hope this helps!

You are supposed to be able to remove the M78's from the program. I have not tried it

MARTIN NGO said:

Hello guys,
Can any of you teach me how to run the MV1200s with the door open. I have some jobs that the part is way too big to fit in the tank and i would like to run it with the door open. I was trying once and i had the water splash over me everywhere...LOL.
thank guys.

Click to expand...

You are supposed to be able to remove the M78's from the program. (submerged cutting) I have not tried it though.

Space Wolf said:

I also love our MV1200R. We have a RA90 and a FA10S as well. We have found that the MV is better and faster but, more fussy. We have found we need more frequent cleaning, especially the lower head. We have had the nut that holds the lower flush cap stick on. The first one did not have flats and was ruined trying to remove it. The second one has flats and I cut a wrench to aid in removal. We only barely tighten it now. We have seen the machine not realize that it is not cutting when the power feeders are at the end of life and need to be indexed. Not the slow drop in speed but a cliff! The machine will run, the wire will run but, no forward movement. On the size thing, our older machines left a "tenth" per side and the MV cuts more on size. Also watch your water level! If you run low on water while cutting the machine goes into alarm (AXIS CAN NOT MOVE) and stops badly because the linear motors need cooling water and are very unhappy without it. OK, that's what I have off the top of my head. I'll be back if I think of anything else.

Click to expand...

Thank you so freaking much. The ( AXIS CAN NOT MOVE) thing has made me pull out my hair. i have years on the old school non subs like a 90c and many a 110s but this one does some goofy stuff. I didn't know it was water related. The company I work for is really goofy on ordering the consumables I need so I sometimes let my water level go low before I spin out the last of my DI bottles. I also have it alarm out and give me something like a ZERO X AXIS OR Y AXIS . Especially when I am on the extreme far X travel. Can you explain that to me? We bought the machine used and MITS sent the same goofy kid twice and he didn't know crap about the machine. Mits had a guy named Scott ( it's been 20 years) something starting with a S, ( he was a half Hispanic man who would be about 55 or so now. but he was absolutely a genius on those machines and extremely helpful but I refuse to pay another tech visit bill until they get somebody who knows something. I really wish I had one good day with a real Mots guy because I taught school for 10 years and these newer machines have some new features I am having to teach myself. Thanks for the info, it helps me greatly