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Mitusibushi FX20 Resistivity Icon stuck on Yellow

tzak

Aluminum
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
I had to re-install the software disks and parameters on a Mitsubishi fx20. I had done this a couple weeks ago, my sensor for resistivity is reading correctly. I originally changed the seal plate timer manually just to test the system and that allowed me to get a proper reading with a green Icon in the bottom left corner of the screen changing to red if it was to high. Now after this last reload of the software I only get a yellow icon. I had just changed brand new filters and resin however with this yellow icon is seems to disable the pump to pump through the new resin socks.

Just want to see what else I might be missing as I did have it working a couple weeks ago. Might be a parameter or program I didn't load correctly, just not sure what.

thanks
 
On the monitor screen, on the right side is your epac settings. Does not matter what epac is in there, you will see all the settings, IP SA SB ect. Go down to LR set it to 1. The light that go's from green to red also has numbers, should be running at 24, if it gets to 30 you will not be able to start a program until it gets below 30.

The sensor should be cleaned periodicly, it is in the tank next to the main pump, it's a long rod with two prongs on the end, clean the prongs. Hope this helps.

Bill
 
The machine seems to hover around 24-23 now. Should it go lower then that if the LR setting is set to 1?
 
Your LR is fine if it is at those numbers, you don't need to play with the settings. I do not have anything else for you, should be ok to run jobs on the machine.

Bill
 
I thought the color depicted the "cleanliness" of the water, it has little to do with the LR#.


OP, did you clean the deio/resin probe? I would start there.
 
The color lights do not refer to the cleanliness of the water, it pertains to the liquid resistivity. Green LR is in control, red LR is out of control. Why it's stuck on yellow, I don't know. The resin deionizes the water to bring the electrolytic property's to a good level for machining. If the level gets to high, the quality of the erosion go's down, especialy on skim passes. I know I am not explaining it well, but it is not for how clean the water is.

Link to a good thread: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/edm-machining/di-water-conductivity-111177/

Bill
 
I got the system read ok. Made my first test cut. Wire edm is now to me and this is an old used machine but it seems to cut well.

I am trying to the the auto feed to work now. But it seems as though the water stream is not lined up for the top and bottom cups it’s close but a little bit out . And when I try to run the auto feed it doesn’t work and the word bunches up. I did a wire alignment for the U and V axes but am now trying to figure out how to get the auto feed working nicely. I might need to post this in a new thread but any help on what else to check would be great.
Thanks
 








 
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