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Bending brushed stainless and not marring it

Portable Welder

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Location
Milan, MI
I'm bending 3/8" x 3 brushed stainless and am trying to keep die marks off of it, duct tape has worked on thin stainless, however the tonnage required to bend 3/8" is not working.... I guess I should have bought the urethane they sell ???
 
I'm bending 3/8" x 3 brushed stainless and am trying to keep die marks off of it, duct tape has worked on thin stainless, however the tonnage required to bend 3/8" is not working.... I guess I should have bought the urethane they sell ???

Urethane die film is not expensive (check ebay), and I use it about daily. I don't know how well it holds up on 3/8" stainless, but it works flawlessly on aluminum for me.
 
I bend 1/8" ss with urethane all the time, never anything over 1/4 though.

What I do for holding it in place is to stick rods (all thread) through the holes in the base of the brake. I have a Cincinnati and there are 1" holes about every foot about a foot below the bottom die. Then run trash can sized rubber bands from the rod, over the die and urethane and back down the other side to the rod. The bands will bend with the die, just dont double them up.

I normally get about 50 bends out of a stick of urethane in long lengths before it curves so much that it keeps falling off.

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I use magnets to stick the urethane to the front and back of the die, but it does require fiddling with after a few bends. The rubber band trick is one I'll have to try.

For thin stuff like 1/8" aluminum, I'm getting thousands of bends per piece of urethane in shorter lengths (say 54" or less).
 
I have resorted to using a "wrapper" made from some surplus 20ga 304 sheet with the pvc coating. This keeps the brake die from scarring your pre sanded part.
 
rolla v. I have ghetto fab pivot dies for our piranha, use nicer (made by machinest - not rolla v) on fly presses. you can supper 77 some umhw on the tops for super clean bends. Also use way less tonnage to bend.
 
I used a combination of thick paper against the brushed stainless with cutting board material on the die, I only get one bend per pc. of cutting board, all in all, it cost 13 cents per bend.
The paper in beds itself into the stainless, so I used warm to get the paper off the stainless.
Thanks for everyone who replied.
 
I finish after. I do have and play around with the film. Got a big a$$ roll of the stuff. Also have some roll dies that make little on no markings at all. But $thousands per foot so I only have a few very small sections.
 
I finish after.

Same here. I do a good amount of stainless fabrication (architectural mostly), and no matter how hard you try to keep material clean there will always be touch up. Once you learn the techniques it is easy to match and touch up brushed finishes, and usually saves more time just knowing there will be touch up rather than painstakingly trying to prevent it. Once a part is ready it will get wrapped up right away to prevent further issues.

If you are doing lots of parts in production that is different, and probably easier to make set ups to avoid damage in the first place I would think. Isn't that the whole reason for using the roller dies, or are there other advantages from those too?
 
Isn't that the whole reason for using the roller dies, or are there other advantages from those too?

Less tonnage and more forgiving(more throw = less bend). Really once you use pivot dies you question why everyone doesn't. (I know, money... but even home brew pivot dies are better than v's)
I have a set here in the shop that the welders wont use, because you use v blocks to bend. Welders also do not like food touching.
 








 
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