Best arrangement for clamping on drill press? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Well as it appears you folk have been more than generous with me on this question given how many threads there are for "best drill press vise"..

    Well I read a few and got something I didn't understand- most seem to be "floating" the vise on the table and just tossing a single dog on when they go to drill or sufficing with a arm back to column or the like.
    With floating the vise the whole problem of finding drill locations fast goes away eh- just push the vise around till on the money..
    I wasn't thinking this was a go with a gear head as I was imagining the machine has enough torque to simply lift the vise but.... perhaps not.
    I think the Feeler is rated for 1-1/2" in steel.
    I get to that large and I will just bolt the work down.

    In any case- I have a couple of options in the shop now.
    I needed to improve the vise on the mill.

    A D40 and D60:

    screen-shot-2021-09-29-6.11.08-am.jpg

    The D60 goes on the mill so the D40 with the speed handle for a stopgap on the drill press.
    Honestly as nice as a vice as this is it doesn't seem right for drill press work.

    I am looking at the Heinrich and Cardinal and I guess I will sell off the D40 in time.

    Cardinal vise guys- that damn bed- seems built to drill idiot marks into and gives a nod to the Heinrich for a clear space between the rails.
    The Cardinal- I like being able to flop the thing over on its side.

    The Cardinal is a goodly bit more expensive than the Heinrich but appears less costly to build.
    Odd..


    Thanks all
    Last edited by Trboatworks; 09-29-2021 at 11:35 AM.

  2. #22
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    I have a Heinrich 8SV at work, and it's a great vice.

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    Mill hold-downs can be handy and a T bolt in a slot to avoid spinning parts... a long slot mill hold down can be very handy.

    Not a bad idea to touch a drill to the table to know where the break- through will happens to reduce this feed rate when getting close.

    for some drill presses, a block glued or screwed under that table that enables a C clamp holding can be handy...Of ten an under lip make C clamping a problem and such a block makes quicker clamping a part or clamping a spin blocker/stop.

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  6. #24
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    I made mild steel jaws for my vise with a shoulder milled about a half inch down from the top edge, it function like a permanent set of parallels. That way i can drill multiple holes in a small part without hitting the vise. I can still set things all the way down in the vice when needed.

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  8. #25
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    Well I mulled it over and just grabbed an ancient Cardinal 6B which showed up in the penny saver.

    screen-shot-2021-10-09-6.28.29-am.jpg

    I like it- 35 pounds and seems lots of drilling won't need dogging down to table.
    Interesting bit of kit and it will work great for all the bar, tube and rod drilling work.
    I like widgets and the half nut design is interesting on these.
    I floats on a pivot to self align to the threaded handle and I appreciate the approach and the mussing which must have been done by the guy who sorted the design out.
    Last edited by Trboatworks; 10-09-2021 at 08:00 AM.

  9. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Well I mulled it over and just grabbed an ancient Cardinal 6B which showed up in the penny saver.

    screen-shot-2021-10-09-6.28.29-am.jpg

    I like it- 35 pounds and seems lots of drilling won't need dogging down to table.
    Interesting bit of kit and it will work great for all the bar, tube and rod drilling work.
    I like widgets and the half nut design is interesting on these.
    I floats on a pivot to self align to the threaded handle and I appreciate the approach and the mussing which must have been done by the guy who sorted the design out.
    Well, you ended up with what I would have recommended. I have both the 6” and 8” along with Heinrich style vises and for heavier work really prefer the Cardinal

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyF View Post
    Well, you ended up with what I would have recommended. I have both the 6” and 8” along with Heinrich style vises and for heavier work really prefer the Cardinal
    I like it.
    I did a quick tear down and clean up and it is working great.
    It really is a Speed-Vise.
    It’s super fast and screws down as tight as one wants.

  11. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDegenhart View Post
    I am partial to the Heinrich cam action drill vice. I have had one for 40 years, very durable and accurate.

    Heinrich Co. 6SV drill press vise (first look) - YouTube

    Tom
    This was going to be my recommendation if nobody had made it yet. Fantastic on a drill-press.
    Since I don't have a real drill-press, I keep mine sitting on the side of the mill table. And use it as a drill-press all the time.
    And, I'm sure the safety nazi's will crucify me, but, I float almost everything I drill that I am not using the DRO to determine locations.
    Drills larger than 1/2" will sometimes get a C-clamp or vise-grips tossed on them after location has been established. For both the spin and lift factors.
    It is also the only machining operation where I will wear gloves. My hands never go near the tool. And I am always ready to let go if need be.
    Experience, common-sense, and good mechanical aptitude will go a long way towards safety when your doing un-safe stuff. I still have all my fingers.
    But I do need a good drill-press!

  12. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven-Canada View Post

    I've had one of these on every press drill that has passed through the shop. A large table is needed to get the most out of it, And it doesn't clamp up like a Kurt,

    Sure is useful though!

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    Not to say that a Heinrich couldn't be modified with a clamp rod system

    Tom

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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    But I do need a good drill-press!
    If you can find one this Feeler suits my shop needs very well and I’m quite happy with it.
    I have long needed something with more balls which could be slowed way down.
    This is the first gear head drill press I’ve owned and it works.

  16. #32
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    Surprised no one has mentioned a Thompson table? They are the best for a drill press xy table. I have three, two on my drill presses and one as a spare.
    They were cheaper a few years ago but are becoming a bit scarcer and now go for more money but maybe you can find one in the penny saver.

    If all you did with the Thompson Mill Drill table was use it to position the part in the vice under the drill then you would be way ahead, if you then also use it to pattern drill you will be making some real money. I cannot understand why anyone would sell one but each to his own and I am glad there were sellers when I bought mine, all three came from the US. You lose a bit of headroom under the quill but it has not been a problem for me yet. Your drill table looks large enough for a Thompson.

    I can make a quick pattern from 3/8" mdf and drill a set of holes in four plates faster than I can lay out the individual parts. When the part counts get up above 20 they really shine. I could go on and on for hours about how much I love my Thompson tables but I will quit now unless anyone asks for more.

    MM

  17. #33
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    We want more LOL

    What the hell is a Thompson table?

    I did find a Troyke 15" with one of the tool resellers a bit back- $650 was a good price I think.
    I was tempted but honestly I think floating the vise is all I need in my shop.

    And...
    275 pound table plus a vise on a 24" drill press...

    Edit...

    Ok I looked them up.
    Why Mr. Moore you seem the reasonable sort.
    A spare of all things...
    Share the love eh to a a fellow PM'er in need..?

    Quote Originally Posted by M. Moore View Post
    I have three, two on my drill presses and one as a spare.

  18. #34
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    Here is a pic of my drill press. It was taken to show the drill storage rack but you can see the TT with vise mounted. I also put stock supports left and right that line up with the bed of the vise. Those are very handy as I often drill to the left or right of the vise and the stock is supported which is very helpful even with a bolted on vise.

    One thing that comes up often is drilling a series of holes on a piece of flat bar down the centre line. It is simple to align the vise jaws with the table travel so I can clamp once and drill all of the holes marked on the stock by moving the table left and right. There is about 12” of travel in both directions.

    It does take some time to get used to the reverse movement of the table when pattern drilling and even now after years I still sometimes get tricked. This is in no way a drawback. There is only one that I have found and it is that the table is not perfectly ridgid when doing heavy drilling. However I added knobs to the axis clamps instead of setscrews so I can quickly lock down the table and that helps but not completely. It is just the nature of the beast and the solenoid clamps each axis reasonably well but it is the weak link.

    That is all for now I can go on and on but have to get going today.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drillstorage1.jpg  

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    Nice setup.
    All that organized gear puts my operation to shame.
    One thing with me is I am often switch hitting on drill press and end up needing to feed 20’ sections of rail along a fence or the like.
    I believe I will end up with a couple of different setups ready at hand to meet which job I have.

  20. #36
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    Here are some pics of the setup for jig drilling.

    I used 3/8" plate for this template as I use it often, if it is a one-off then I just use 3/8" mdf which actually holds up quite well to repeat uses. The groove in the template guides the stylus between the 3/16" holes and makes it easier to change positions as you don't have to look at the template. I am drilling some bolt holes in a 1.5" x 3" rectangle tubing at several spots along the length.

    The Thompson Table is meant to be bolted to the drill table and then you make each template so that the parts index properly when set up. I found this to be less than desirable as I was moving the vice and had other issues that made it difficult to follow their program. My solution was to add some very beefy clamps to the TT so I could move it in the Y axis to align the jig with the part held in the vice. This made it easy and fast to adjust in the Y axis, the template can only move a small amount in the X axis but the part also can move in the X axis so that is not a big issue.
    So my TT kind of floats on the drill table to increase the range of movement possible and to help with template alignment issues. This has greatly enhanced the user friendliness of the TT and should have been included in the software updates. (LOL)


    I do a lot of different jobs on my drill presses and I have only had to take the Thompson table off two or three times in 7 years. It is so easy to use and very versatile.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails thomtable1.jpg   thomtable2.jpg  

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  22. #37
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    So you find the TT robust enough to carry a heavy vise and the assorted stock one finds needs drilling?

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    A table T bolt, say 1/2-13 and 3 inches stick out above the nut so enough to hold down your vise. Plus having a running thread nut that may be 1" long and 1/2-13 thread..with this you can quickly add a running male thread of any length to hold down parts of any height... a long slotted mill hold down bar makes moving your vise easier.

    Having a couple of these t bolts can quickly add hundreds of pounds of hold-down to a setup.

    Along with a no-spin T bolt on the table, these can be a quick and easy asset to any machine.

    Running nuts can be made by welding 3 nuts together over a running thread, and then running a tap through if not having a lathe handy.

    I have these in 1-foot lengths so I can stack them as needed.

    Yes, a bigger machine might accommodate a 5/8 or 3/4 T bolt set-up .

  24. #39
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    Yes, the TT is heavy enough for any job I throw at it. The only thing I have found is with very long stock that is supported on a stand it has a bit of trouble dragging the stock around when moving the TT. So I use my shop cart and that helps. I don’t think I would drop 20’ of 6” I beam on there, it is not the right tool for that job.

    My dp is over 8’ tall and weighs 1800lbs and the TT doesn’t look small on the table.

    I have modified my table with outfeed supports and added knobs so I can lock down both axis very quickly. On the heaviest drilling jobs, like a 1” twist drill through 3/4” plate, the table does have some slight motion until the drill is fully engaged but I have not found it to be a problem. I generally use annular cutters unless it is an odd size that I don't have. I know that 3/4” plate is not that heavy of a drilling job but I assume you are not making container ships.

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  26. #40
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    Many years ago a buddy was selling off his small shop and told me I needed to have his Kopal clamp set. I had no idea what they were and was highly skeptical. He pushed them on me for $50. In very short order I was highly impressed! I use them on all my mills, and can't imagine how much time and aggravation (with step clamps) they have saved me. Some years ago, there were low cost China knock offs floating around Ebay and I think Shars carried a clone set, but by the time I discovered that, they were out of stock and disappeared from the website. They are much more impressive clamp pressure wise than they look. Great shop tool.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    If you have the budget these Kopal clamps are the hot setup for a T slotted table. Mitee Bite has taken the line over. They have replaced strap clamps everywhere we can fit them.
    Attachment 330054

    If you have drill press vise you still need to clamp the vise to the table, these are fast and secure.
    I have a Heinrich type, not sure if genuine, and don't really care for it, it never seems to clamp tight enough.

    I have a couple 3" Eron DP vises, they get used all over the shop including on the bandsaw and on the welding bench, and usually get used on the DP also for very small stuff, other wise material is clamped directly on the DP table.


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