Cold saw for thin aluminum extrusions - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Mar 2004
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    Similar to Hong Kong, in Italy there is a shop in each tiny medieval village that specializes in installing double pane aluminum windows in 800 year old stone buildings. They use small, italian made mitering cold saws, and also, small, italian made swivel bandsaws. But every job they do is custom. No two angles repeat, even on the same window, and they are constantly custom rolling curves too.

    I still say a Pistorius.

  2. #22
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    I think Ries is on the right track - the Pistorious seems to be designed to do what I do, and I'll probably start being on the lookout for one local and cheap.

    That said, as most of you mentioned, my carpenter's chop saw is up for the task, as long as I improve workholding, so that's what I played with this evening.

    Came up with this.

    3/16" aluminum plate, and a piece of 1 x 1.5" rect bar that fits snugly inside my extrusion.
    img_20191101_205452677.jpg

    img_20191101_205447311.jpg

    Mounts to some preexisting 8mm threaded holes in the saw.
    img_20191101_205650265.jpg


    Little toggle clamp for hold down. Currently, the toggle clamp is just threaded into the plate, but that's just for proof of concept testing, as it obviously isn't going to allow me to do 90 degree cuts. The offcut is held nicely, so it doesn't try to fall into the blade.
    img_20191101_205611430.jpg

    Originally planned on an easily removable clamp, with spots on the left, right and middle, but now I'm thinking a clamp on each side, angled in, placed between the 45 and 90 degree cut would do the trick for all 3 cuts. Either way, I'm going with a larger clamp to make grabbing it easier.

    img_20191101_205520029.jpg

    I'm getting cut times around 5 seconds, plus 2 seconds for the saw to stop spinning before lifting it back up. Also quite a bit quicker to clamp them - in the bandsaw, we were fumbling with 3 different size pieces of square and rec tube to hold it in a normal vice. Now, there's no chasing them after they've fallen on the floor between cuts.

    Next, I'm going to swap the location of the chop saw and bandsaw, so I can continue to use the existing stop rail we have on the right side of the bandsaw.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by memphisjed View Post

    Even a saw shaped saw blade holder shouldn't wonder to much over that section. Set your blade tracking on both wheels, then set guide arms to neutral axis, then set guide angles, then pressure. Your little scissor saw should be able to run thru those with all she's got without blinking. Make a set of "soft jaw" toggle clamps on the operator side to expediate sawing.
    It used to be fine, but I think over time the arm has started to pull out of shape from blade tension (it now has a noticeable curve), which has messed up the geometry. I bought it to serve a purpose, which it did, but needs to do so no more. My business had only been open for a few months, I was broke, and this product was in it's infancy - I just needed something to cut a few frames until I got to the point where I could start upgrading equipment. It's given me my money's worth.

  4. #24
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    We just threw a dewalt sliding chop saw away after we killed it from 20,000 aluminum cuts. I use the 100 tooth blades from Irwin I think. Only issue is wait till the blade stops before withdrawing it from the cut.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  5. #25
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    I have a double Pistorius saw for sale. Excellent shape, came out of a college framing shop. As above stated, these were designed for your operation. Let me know. [email protected]


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