Got a synchrowave 350 from a trade - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    I went with a modern miller foot pedal so I can swap it with our Dynasty (nice to always have a spare pedal). On the torch I went with CK and I'm happy with it. We use a weldcraft wp-20 on the Dynasty but a couple of years ago I got a CK micro torch and was impressed with the quality, so I decided to go with CK for the syncro's main torch.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newman109 View Post
    I've never noticed any difficulty with welding regardless of what I used. When I bought my first TIG welder a long time ago, it came with a home built cooler which I still have. The previous owner had been using soluble oil in the cooler which worked fine but permitted the formation of lumps of nasty stuff in the tank. Even though it welded OK, I got rid of it and went to distilled water and Lysol.

    With a machine as large as a 350, as mentioned above, you will want to make sure that you have a cooler on it. Also, you will need enough electricity to power it. I have 100 amps available for welding in my area but some machines would require more.

    Good luck!
    McMaster-Carr sells "welder coolant" for significantly less than the Miller coolant. I've had it in my Lincoln for roughly 2 years without issue. There's two versions (different glycol content and freezing point), here's a link: McMaster-Carr

    I second the power comment. I don't have a manual in front of me, but I'm guessing you'll want that on a 150 amp circuit with at least #2 copper wire to crank it all the way up. You can run it on a smaller circuit, but you will be limited on the amount of output current you can run. My Lincoln is a 275 and they recommend 100 amps and #4 copper for it.

  3. #23
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    This happened with my Miller cooler fittings. The original fittings are plated and the top side has a press fit pipe.
    If you change coolant every 6-12 months then you wouldn't notice anything until the pipe eventually detaches from it's rusted out hole.

    So I made replacements.

    dsc_0558.jpg

    dsc_0556.jpg

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graham Gott View Post
    McMaster-Carr sells "welder coolant" for significantly less than the Miller coolant. I've had it in my Lincoln for roughly 2 years without issue. There's two versions (different glycol content and freezing point), here's a link: McMaster-Carr

    I second the power comment. I don't have a manual in front of me, but I'm guessing you'll want that on a 150 amp circuit with at least #2 copper wire to crank it all the way up. You can run it on a smaller circuit, but you will be limited on the amount of output current you can run. My Lincoln is a 275 and they recommend 100 amps and #4 copper for it.
    My SW 200 is on a dedicated 70 amp breaker with 100 amp power to the shop from the house. The SW200 requires 52 amps so it's fine.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graham Gott View Post
    McMaster-Carr sells "welder coolant" for significantly less than the Miller coolant. I've had it in my Lincoln for roughly 2 years without issue. There's two versions (different glycol content and freezing point), here's a link: McMaster-Carr
    I just looked this up, 17% ethelene glycol - antifreeze 17%. Just use the stuff from any big box store.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newman109 View Post
    My SW 200 is on a dedicated 70 amp breaker with 100 amp power to the shop from the house. The SW200 requires 52 amps so it's fine.
    I was talking about the OP's 350...that will suck up some juice at full tilt.

  7. #27
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    Going to try and run it off a dedicated 100 amp breaker until I get my service upgraded. Guy I talked to at miller said it's possible with some sort of low power kit they have.


    Got myself a pedal and ck torch setup coming what does everyone recommend for a cooler?

  8. #28
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    Excellent trade!
    I switched from Ethylene glycol to Propylene glycol for coolant 20 years ago and have had zero trouble since. The sporting goods section has it labeled as RV antifreeze.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by West-7 View Post
    Going to try and run it off a dedicated 100 amp breaker until I get my service upgraded. Guy I talked to at miller said it's possible with some sort of low power kit they have.


    Got myself a pedal and ck torch setup coming what does everyone recommend for a cooler?
    The "low power kit" would be a set of power factor capacitors. They generally go across L1 and L2 on your incoming power to the welder. I don't know the values but they are not very large.

    I added a 30 mf power factor capacitor on my 7.5 hp RPC and it lowered the idle current something like 4 amps.

    Here is a Miller kit. They are not cheap and you could do it yourself for much less. You should check inside your machine to see if you do not already have the P.F. kit.

    MILLER WELDER CAPACITOR, Power Factor , Syncrowave 250DX, 203517, 194-692 - $199.00 | PicClick

    As to coolers, they are terribly expensive new. I have a vintage Bernard that I traded for. It has a Procon pump and holds 2.5 gallons.

    Again, you might save a lot of money building your own. There are plans available with a search.

  10. #30
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    I got this machine set up and running and it's very nice for a old transformer machine.

    Haven't got a cooler yet and haven't decided if I'm going to build or buy. I wanted to go with a Bernard cooler since I've used them in the past and liked the lack of plastic but they appear to be discontinued unfortunately.

    I contacted Miller and the parts are no longer available to convert this machine to pulse.

    Are any of the aftermarket pulse add on boxes any good?

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by West-7 View Post
    I got this machine set up and running and it's very nice for a old transformer machine.

    Haven't got a cooler yet and haven't decided if I'm going to build or buy. I wanted to go with a Bernard cooler since I've used them in the past and liked the lack of plastic but they appear to be discontinued unfortunately.

    I contacted Miller and the parts are no longer available to convert this machine to pulse.

    Are any of the aftermarket pulse add on boxes any good?
    One of my two coolers is an old Bernard 2500 2.5 gallon capacity. I got screwed when I bought it because the motor gave out about a month after I got it and the seller told me to pound sand, LOL.
    The only motors available had a single shaft so I had to add an electric fan. It works nicely now.

    As to pulse, my SW 200 has pulse that can be adjusted from 0.1 to 15 PPS. I seldom use it, but I can see how it would be useful for fabricating light sheet metal because it can keep the heat down.

    Now and then you will see one of the add-on pulse units on eBay but there's no support.

  12. #32
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    I'm with Newman on the pulse, I have it on my syncro 500s and don't use it at all. The Dynasty has high freq pules which we use from time to time but not often enough to want to buy the feature and add it on to an older machine. Just my two cents.

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    I agree with the previous two posts about the pulse unit. I added it to my Lincoln when I bought the machine and have messed with it a couple times. I wouldn't miss it if it wasn't there.

  14. #34
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    I've been using the machine for both stick and tig since hooking it up and it's performed flawlessly.

    It's one of the nicest welders I've ever used.

  15. #35
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    My Syncrowave 250 popped the 220 breaker at full tilt so I had it wired for 480 volts. No problem after that. 10 years and maybe 10 total hours and traded in for a Dynasty 350. Both units were purchased as full kits, cooler, torch, lead cover, foot pedal, cart.
    I went with the wireless foot pedal on the Dynasty 350. I could never go back to a wired pedal now.
    The Fronius that I just bought also has a wireless pedal and theirs has a "guard" thingy over the pedal. Not a full cover but a strap that is more like a hook as it only attaches to one side. Handy to pick up and move around with my foot. Miller pedal just gets kicked around on the floor.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scruffy887 View Post
    My Syncrowave 250 popped the 220 breaker at full tilt so I had it wired for 480 volts. No problem after that. 10 years and maybe 10 total hours and traded in for a Dynasty 350. Both units were purchased as full kits, cooler, torch, lead cover, foot pedal, cart.
    I went with the wireless foot pedal on the Dynasty 350. I could never go back to a wired pedal now.
    The Fronius that I just bought also has a wireless pedal and theirs has a "guard" thingy over the pedal. Not a full cover but a strap that is more like a hook as it only attaches to one side. Handy to pick up and move around with my foot. Miller pedal just gets kicked around on the floor.
    How do you like the wireless pedal? 2 local salesmen around here say after a couple months, people stop liking them. They loose range, suck batteries...

    I have always wanted one, but from what people are saying, not worth the 700 risk

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bondo View Post
    How do you like the wireless pedal? 2 local salesmen around here say after a couple months, people stop liking them. They loose range, suck batteries...
    Just imagining having the pedal cutout in the middle of a weld makes me frustrated already. If I had more money laying around I would probably get one, because why not I guess. Though until the wireless torch comes out I have never felt like it would be enough benefit to justify the wireless pedal, but maybe I am wrong having never owned one.


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