Gravity feed HVLP recommendation ? - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 39 of 39
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,433
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1682
    Likes (Received)
    869

    Default

    I used to do a lot of motorcycle work at one point, most of that I hung. Using one hand to steady with the gun in the other.
    Most car stuff I preferred to do on the car where possible, especially going through panels in anything light metallic, for colour. Also swerves the risk of twating a finished panel when fitting up.
    I dont like the reg gauges that go between the gun and hose, they just add bulk and get knocked about, something else to leak. I used to have the line pressure set at the max id wanna be using and trim the gun air flow at the bottom of the handle if I wanted to dial back the open trigger air 'pressure'. I remember the guy I looked up to as a noob used to kink the line .
    Matching orange peel imo can be about a lot more than pressure. Asides using the same materials and ratios etc, your environment and process probably matter more imo.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Maryland- USA
    Posts
    2,994
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1760
    Likes (Received)
    1989

    Default

    Should I pick up a gun for you?

    8c06698e-9514-409e-b28f-5e5009ae65e1.jpg

    The Binks Mach 1sl is worth having and in fine shape.
    I will be here about another hour..

    Price is RIGHT...:

    BINKS MACH 1 HVLP SPRAY from Aircraft Spruce

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,928
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    207
    Likes (Received)
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Should I pick up a gun for you?

    8c06698e-9514-409e-b28f-5e5009ae65e1.jpg

    The Binks Mach 1sl is worth having and in fine shape.
    I will be here about another hour..

    Price is RIGHT...:

    BINKS MACH 1 HVLP SPRAY from Aircraft Spruce
    That's way out of my price range lol.

    -

    Here's another question for you guys: What's the difference between the Kremlin and Graco HVLP guns and the Iwata , Devilbiss, Sata ?

    Is the Kremlin and Graco not meant for automotive , just for spraying thicker stuff like bedliner material and maybe some wood finishes ??

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    4,679
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    86
    Likes (Received)
    846

    Default

    Iwata and Sata are the best and worth the price. I like Devilbiss too.

    My favorite mini guns:

    https://netpanel.netbydesign.net/use...attach1425.PDF

    SRiPro™ Spot Repair Paint Gun

    Favorite full size guns:

    SATAjet(R) 3000 B RP(R) (DIGITAL(R)) / SATA.COM

    (without the digital readout)

    GTi(R) Gravity Feed Spray Gun

    The three tips you get with it are for different materials/viscosity. You can't go wrong with it.
    The Devilbiss PLUS gun is equivalent to the GTI.

    Would not consider a Kraco or Kremlin. If you want quality without a high price then Devilbiss is what you should look at. A price of $300 - $350 is going to get you a GTI with three fluid tips.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    4,679
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    86
    Likes (Received)
    846

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Spud View Post

    Is the Kremlin and Graco not meant for automotive , just for spraying thicker stuff like bedliner material and maybe some wood finishes ??
    The larger the fluid tip, the thicker the material in the cup. For example, the GTI comes with 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 tips. I have never used the 1.5 yet. I stay in the 1.2 and 1.3 range.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Maryland- USA
    Posts
    2,994
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1760
    Likes (Received)
    1989

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Spud View Post
    That's way out of my price range lol.

    ?
    Oh that table full of guns were $50 a piece.
    I did buy the Mach 1SL just to have a spare to my gear.

    What are you painting?

    Except for very small jobs I am most always in a pressure pot setup.
    The gun is so much easier to control and lots of my work is out of position- under/back sides of tube etc.
    On large jobs it makes a big difference to not have all that weight in the gun hand as well.
    I would buy siphon just due to fact you can toss on a pot as needed.

    Edit- I see you are in a auto course.
    Might feel the odd man out with a pressure pot there ...

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,928
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    207
    Likes (Received)
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Oh that table full of guns were $50 a piece.
    I did buy the Mach 1SL just to have a spare to my gear.

    What are you painting?

    Except for very small jobs I am most always in a pressure pot setup.
    The gun is so much easier to control and lots of my work is out of position- under/back sides of tube etc.
    On large jobs it makes a big difference to not have all that weight in the gun hand as well.
    I would buy siphon just due to fact you can toss on a pot as needed.

    Edit- I see you are in a auto course.
    Might feel the odd man out with a pressure pot there ...
    Only gravity feed HVLP used in our class, as that is what industry around here is using. No pressure pot , siphon or traditional guns. School shop not set up for use of pressure pots.

    We did have siphon and pressure pots in the wood working class.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Flushing/Flint, Michigan
    Posts
    7,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    345
    Likes (Received)
    6087

    Default

    I would buy a mid to low level gun and here is why.
    A good painter can make a $29 Harbor Freight gun work because he/she knows how to paint.
    If you buy top notch equipment to learn on the gun does the work for you and you will never develop the skills.
    High end stuff are crutches or status symbols.
    They do have a real place in dollars vs time environments which is a field you are not yet playing in.
    Bob

  9. Likes Dan from Oakland liked this post
  10. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    4,679
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    86
    Likes (Received)
    846

    Default

    Consider a bargain gun if you are doing car body work. I went thru a business last year and I didn't think too much of the equipment. In their work they can get by with cheap guns. The finish product is always cut and buffed with polishing compound.

    If you expect first class results with just spraying alone then a quality gun gets you there. For example, with some of the Imron paint the finish is not supposed to be buffed. Example, intricate parts are hard to buff. And why even consider it.

  11. Likes Trboatworks liked this post
  12. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Maryland- USA
    Posts
    2,994
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1760
    Likes (Received)
    1989

    Default

    In marine work some of the paints are notorious for being one shot deals- no buffing out to make do.
    US paints AwlGrip is this way and leaves a halo for most who try.
    Plus some colors float pigment to surface and will change color if you cut the surface.
    Takes a good guy behind the gun to nail a hull shoot.
    The gun helps but doesn’t come close to saving a novice.

    The saying goes you make money on the one shot deal, break even on two and go broke on three.
    I’ve watched lots of guys sand out screwed up paint jobs.
    Done a few myself...lol

    The interesting bit is learning to roll and tip AwlGrip- I mastered that- painted a 40 footer that looked far better than a spray job.
    Ya got to move fast to get that done..

    What’s not being mentioned here is who is doing the filling/fairing/sanding/priming.
    There is lots more to the work than pulling the trigger on top coats.

    On above for 4000 psi airless Graco gear- I was looking to get the air out of the equipment for driving paint delivery as I was shooting lp’s on spars in low tube tents- I couldn’t see after half way done due to overspray.
    Cabinet guys use the gear to spray inside cabinet work for the same reason.

    I don’t have the gear so trading on rumors here..

  13. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Country
    AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    1,585
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    6
    Likes (Received)
    484

    Default

    I worked for a crowd of industrial painters and sandblasters doing maintenance,and I used to have a drum of Turco stripper......forgotten the number ,but it comes as "thick" or "thin"......anyhoo ,in the industry I would often get solidified high end guns for a couple of bucks......and a while in the stripper ,the toughest of poly or epoxy would just wash out.....The stripper wasnt cheap ,and supposedly dangerous,but magic for removing anything that would go hard in a spraygun,or airless pump.....after i quit,the dumb druggie they put on didnt know what I was using,and thought it was hydrochloric acid......lots of Graco guns went missing after that....Remove the gun and leave the paint!

  14. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    4,679
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    86
    Likes (Received)
    846

    Default

    When using water based paints the dip and strip idea does not work for a gun that is clogged up.

  15. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Bedford, IN
    Posts
    952
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    82
    Likes (Received)
    300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by adama View Post
    Unless your into show grade finishes, some of the cheap ones on ebay are bloody good! I have both a 0.5mm (use it for water based varnish on smallish wood stuff mostly) and also a monster gravity HVLP with 1.3-2.4mm needles i use for U pol raptor. The first was sub £20 the second was around the £40 mark, sure there no £300 gun, but the build quality and finish on both is really good. The spray pattern on both is perfectly even, so any bad results are firmly down to me not the guns!

    The transfer efficiency on both is bloody good, HVLP even in a cheap gun is definitely a winner even for my usage. Outside of a proper booth IMHO your kinda pissing in the wind if you think a more expensive - top of the range gun is such a benefit. My experience, environment is everything when spraying and matters way more with re-guard to finish out come than gun brand.
    I agree with this. Unless you're in a proper booth with proper environment, using really expensive finishes, going for show-car quality you would be over-buying to go top of the line. The process is only as good as the weakest link. If you're weak link is your booth (or other factors) adding a high end gun won't compensate.

    That being said, I don't have a booth and I'm not going for show quality. I buy the $10 harbor freight guns and throw them away when the project is done. The labor to clean them isn't worth it.

  16. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,928
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    207
    Likes (Received)
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CountryBoy19 View Post
    I agree with this. Unless you're in a proper booth with proper environment, using really expensive finishes, going for show-car quality you would be over-buying to go top of the line. The process is only as good as the weakest link. If you're weak link is your booth (or other factors) adding a high end gun won't compensate.

    That being said, I don't have a booth and I'm not going for show quality. I buy the $10 harbor freight guns and throw them away when the project is done. The labor to clean them isn't worth it.
    We have proper booths here at the college, 2 of them. Cost in excess of 150K for each. Down draft ventilation with below ground filters and ducting .

    Breathing air supply is positive pressure, i.e. supplied from an external pump. Full suit with face mask. No part of the body is exposed to isocynates. School is very particular on following OSHA, NIOSH , EPA, DNR safety regs. Accredited with I-CAR. Paint room is separate entity, with all tables, mixing stations, cabinets being grounded. All lights are explosion proof. Class is about 33 hours per week, and so far about 70% of it has been about following proper safety procedures , gov. regs , industry standards and safety etc. Only positive pressure breathing apparatus for spraying paint and clear, no respirators. Respirators only used for primer.

    But I am new and just learning so a top notch gun wouldn't make a difference.

  17. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,433
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1682
    Likes (Received)
    869

    Default

    Are you telling us the primer is iso/solvent free, high build sunbeams and rainbows line?

  18. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,928
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    207
    Likes (Received)
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Are you telling us the primer is iso/solvent free, high build sunbeams and rainbows line?
    The primer does not have isocynates, which is why we can lay down primer outside of the 2 walled booths , but still need to use an external downdraft booth which is enclosed with movable curtains . Primer is epoxy. We use a respirator ; 3m VOC cartridge type.

    Far as I know only the paint we use has isocynates. Not sure about the clear coat.

  19. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Surbiton, surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,433
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1682
    Likes (Received)
    869

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Spud View Post
    The primer does not have isocynates, which is why we can lay down primer outside of the 2 walled booths , but still need to use an external downdraft booth which is enclosed with movable curtains . Primer is epoxy. We use a respirator ; 3m VOC cartridge type.

    Far as I know only the paint we use has isocynates. Not sure about the clear coat.
    Fair do's spud. I never goto the epoxy stuff, guy a couple units down liked it tho.
    I can understand the college emphasizing the saftey aspects to the letter. Doesnt seem to translate to much in real world use in my experience.
    Most materials with a hardner Ive used contains iso. 2K Solid colours, 2K clear, the base coat just used a thinner but still termed as 2K. Only touched on water based base coats. I do remember using a non iso '2K' product by Sikkens way back, it was pretty poor all round.

  20. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,928
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    207
    Likes (Received)
    337

    Default

    Update
    Got me an unopened box SATA 4000 B Digital ; and didn't have to pay close to retail. Bought off Ebay for $360 (includes shipping)

    Money I saved from buying the Harbor Freight hammer/dolly set went towards the Sata. First thing I bought from H.F. , and it is actually decent. Even the instructor said he likes it , so might end up getting the same set. The wood handle Snap-on hammers the school has do seem to be better for fine tuning small sheetmetal imperfections .

  21. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,928
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    207
    Likes (Received)
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Fair do's spud. I never goto the epoxy stuff, guy a couple units down liked it tho.
    I can understand the college emphasizing the saftey aspects to the letter. Doesnt seem to translate to much in real world use in my experience.
    Most materials with a hardner Ive used contains iso. 2K Solid colours, 2K clear, the base coat just used a thinner but still termed as 2K. Only touched on water based base coats. I do remember using a non iso '2K' product by Sikkens way back, it was pretty poor all round.
    Last class we mixed up a quart ; all products were BASF and Axalta (formerly Dupont)


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •