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  1. #41
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    I'd be glad to share the electrical diagram.

    Google Drive: Sign-in
    Let me know if you are able to access the diagram from Google Drive

    I'm struggling with finding a diagram of the valve assembly. I hate poking around trying to figure things out, I can do it, just don't like it.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffro1967 View Post
    Google Drive: Sign-in
    Let me know if you are able to access the diagram from Google Drive
    I tried to sign in and it told me I was not able to access account...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    I tried to sign in and it told me I was not able to access account...
    Try again and let me know.

    Scotchman 6509 - Google Drive

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffro1967 View Post
    Try again and let me know.

    Scotchman 6509 - Google Drive
    That worked great, looks pretty simple to instal.
    Thanks for posting that, I will call them to get more details and cost.

  5. #45
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    The cost is around $500 and it's a very simple design. I would have had our guys build one except it's a modification to the machine, not sent from the company, and it would have been a liability to us. Good luck and thanks for you info!

  6. #46
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    I've had this Scotchman FI-51 since 2002. It has been a work horse and has paid for itself several times over. It's only a 50 Ton machine but is fully integrated with 14" shear 14", angle cutter (5"X5"), punch station, break station and notching station. A heavy machine at 3500#. It has a stroke adjustment that allows for acurete repeatability when breaking flat bar.
    I also have a back gauge that saves time when shearing multiples. The punch table also has the ability to setup rapid presise punching of multiples. For some reason, Scotchman stopped production on this particular model.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_0752.jpg   img_1879.jpg   img_1880.jpg   img_1928.jpg  
    Last edited by firestopper; 06-20-2020 at 09:32 AM.

  7. #47
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    Shane Harmon, would you look at a post I have in the General section, I have problems with my accurshear.

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    If your cylinder isn’t the culprit, it must be the valve. I would have guessed the cylinder 9 times out of 10. Don’t think the pressure relief would be the issue. Good luck.

  9. #49
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    Imo, owner of the smallest MM-35 is that if you get the sheared part up close to the pivot pin the shear blades are way out of parallel at the start of the cut for thick material. That leads to distortion but reduces tonnage. Think of the forces in a side cutting "dykes" pliers, cut a wire way back in the jaws vs. cutting it out at the tips. The more the blades are parallel this increases tonnage but also decrease distortion.

  10. #50
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    Hi Shane, I have a Piranha p70 I got at auction. It's an awesome machine, but I'm having to deal with issues caused by previous owners. It appears that the stripper foot is bent and I think it causes lighter materials to deform when I'm punching them: the die leaves a donut shaped dent on the bottom and the material gets bent downward. Ever seen or heard of this? here's some pics of some 1" channel as an example. any ideas for a solve? (other than get a new foot)stripper-foot-die.jpg1-22-channel-issues-2.jpg1-channel-issues.jpg

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impractical View Post
    I only use the stroke adjustment to set the return height of the punch to a little above the punch stripper.
    I used to fuss around with the stroke adjustment to get parts to strip off the punch right too. I don't anymore, not since a guy at a county fair in Iowa told me "Oh - you need a crocodile!" I actually couldn't remember later whether he told me crocodile or alligator, but I did remember his very simple sketch. Here is the piece I made when I got home, been using it ever since. You step on the pedal and when the punch is fully extended you slip the crocodile (alligator? let's call it a croc-a-gator) over the part and under the stripper. The thickness of the croc-a-gator easily pulls the part off the punch.

    metalmagpie


  12. #52
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    repeat post, ignore

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubameat View Post
    Hi Shane, I have a Piranha p70 I got at auction. It's an awesome machine, but I'm having to deal with issues caused by previous owners. It appears that the stripper foot is bent and I think it causes lighter materials to deform when I'm punching them: the die leaves a donut shaped dent on the bottom and the material gets bent downward. Ever seen or heard of this? here's some pics of some 1" channel as an example. any ideas for a solve? (other than get a new foot)stripper-foot-die.jpg1-22-channel-issues-2.jpg1-channel-issues.jpg

    I would take the stripper off, and heat and beat it until it's straight. Won't do anything about the donut in the bottom, but should help with punch stripping distortion. As it sits now, you're effectively using a twice as large stripper opening, which is just inviting bending.

  14. #54
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    Shane,
    Thanks for your posts with info on other machines, very helpful.
    I have a Scotchman 50 ton older machine and built a new die holder and work table for it due to the totally worn out old die holder and completely useless work table system.
    Here is a link to some photos of the new parts. ironworker die holder material?

    Now after three years of use I can give a proper review of the changes. The die holder I made is absolutely fantastic, it holds the dies perfectly with no movement and will never come loose from use. The old setscrew system was cheap and very unreliable not to mention very difficult to align an oblong or square die with the punch. I made the die holder a very close fit to the dies and I usually have to just kiss the dies on the belt grinder to get them to fit as the size info stamped into the sides rubs as I install the die. I also make sure to carefully clean the die holder each time I swap dies as this helps to prevent wear and tear leading to a loose die holder.

    After completing the new die holder and table I removed the main ram and milled in cross slots and now get all my oblong punches ground with a 1/4" keyway.
    I need to be able to set up the machine fast and reliable which it now does easily and I will have to take some pics of the fence system I built with scales on each side so I can set the fence to an exact measurement from the centre of the part.

    Cheers,
    Michael

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  16. #55
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    Sorry for the late reply. Probably have it solved by now. I was going to say punch die clearance but looking at your pics it looks like the stripper is the culprit. The hole you are punching is taking out a large percentage of the overall width. Leaving that section with little strength. Then the stripper is pushing the material and distorting it around the die which is proud of the base. Your best bet is to fab a stripping spacer as another poster suggested. Closer to the punch the better.


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