Main motor on Dreis and krump press brake not functioning w/ Allen Bradley ac drive
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  1. #1
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    Default Main motor on Dreis and krump press brake not functioning w/ Allen Bradley ac drive

    Hello,

    I wasn't sure if this should go in this section or another.

    I recently purchased a Chicago Dreiss and krump press brake. I saw it operate at the machinery dealers location. We had a transformer included in the offer so it would operate on our power (see picture w/ transformer details).

    Anyways, we had the machine wired up yesterday by the electrician. We fired it up and the ram adjustment work, and the work light. The Allen Bradley Powerflex 40 Variable Speed Drive also lit too. The Ram motor was not operating though, the electrician saw that there was voltage going into the AC drive and not out of it. This leads me to believe it is a configuration that needed to be done in the AC drive. I am unfamiliar with AC drives and electrical in general. I wouldn't want to risk my self doing something stupid, on the other hand if it is something really easy to fix I would feel stupid paying somebody to fix it for me. Do you guys have any clues?









    Thanks,
    Nigel

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    Blown-out browser windows will only get worse as people start buying the new Nokia camera phone with 41 megapixels.

    640 by 480, eh Monkey?

    That all a browser needs, and basically tolerates. That about .3 megapixel.

    Thank You,
    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by S_W_Bausch View Post
    Blown-out browser windows will only get worse as people start buying the new Nokia camera phone with 41 megapixels.

    640 by 480, eh Monkey?

    That all a browser needs, and basically tolerates. That about .3 megapixel.

    Thank You,
    Steve
    Sorry Steve!

    I fixed the sizes, thanks for letting me know. You may have saved alot of scrolling, not to mention saving peoples eyeballs.

    I dont know how I let that one go

    - Nigel

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    Nigel,
    I don't know why anyone would put a a.c. freq drive on that motor, but here
    goes.

    I have a very similar D&K press brake (dis-assembled to change to hydraulic)
    and that motor (that runs the flywheel) is a "high slip" motor, special
    to punch presses and such.

    That might be driving the problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Nigel,
    I don't know why anyone would put a a.c. freq drive on that motor, but here
    goes.

    I have a very similar D&K press brake (dis-assembled to change to hydraulic)
    and that motor (that runs the flywheel) is a "high slip" motor, special
    to punch presses and such.

    That might be driving the problem.
    Thanks for the insight, I am going to research why they may have put the AC freq drive on this motor. Hopefully its something simple to adjust, I am just really unfamiliar with these kinds of things since I am just starting out. The term "high slip" is even new to me haha. I have a electrician stopping by tommarow to do other task, Ill see if I can get him to look at this. I just want to make some parts!

    Off topic how was retrofitting to hydraulic for you?

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    High slip is also used on oil field motors, known only because I read catalogs.

    If you find a lot of wires brought out of the motor, perhaps thermostats to guard against single phasing/overheating?

    Depending on how much configuring was done on the VFD, you should be able to change the control from the buttons to the VFD console, see how that goes.

    That three-button setup is about as simple as can be....check for a loose wire, any loose wire.

    Good Luck
    Steve

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    It`s a bit unusual and not good practice to put a contactor between the drive and the motor such as in shown in the drawing.Opening it under load is usually enough to blow the drive.
    I too don`t see the need for an ac drive on a pressbrake motor.
    Cinci uses high slip motors on their shears and Sedgewick used them on their pressbrakes both of them just used standard contactors.
    Could it be that the variable speed motor is for controlling the depth of stroke rather than the crankshaft?

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    The contactor after the drive is the first thing that struck me.

    Tell him to remove it and the overload before further testing. If it is opened with the drive running you WILL blow the drive. Maybe not the first time, but it will kill it.

    The drive has built in overloads and you can set the output current.

    The Powerflex is a good, simple drive.

    Check P036 is set to 1, which is 3 wire control as he's wired it.
    The default, out of box setting should still run off the keypad buttons.

    Set P038 to 0 if you want to use the pot on the drive, you can also set a preset frequency (speed).

    P039 and 40 are accell and decel time, default is set to 10sec.

    set the motor nameplate current at p033

    If you want the motor to coast to a stop instead of a controlled ramp, set P037 to1

    download a manual here:
    http://literature.rockwellautomation...m001_-en-e.pdf

    or from here:
    Allen-Bradley Drives Support Home page

    Chris

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    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyDoes View Post
    Off topic how was retrofitting to hydraulic for you?
    It's not.....I bought it as scrap, as someone had taken the screw ram adjusters,
    and then I stripped it completely (flywheel, air clutch, gearing, etc) with good
    intentions....and the project sit's.

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    All is well guys, it looks like there was a broken wire somewhere involving a switch according to the electrician. His explanation is that the rigger did the damage on wire.

    Thanks for the help guys.


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