Miller Dynasty DX high frequency not working correctly

tomjelly · Nov 26, 2016

Late 90's vintage (all knobs, not touch pads, large cabinet like an xmt304) sometimes high frequency gives an approx 2hz spark when set to DC hf start & will not actually start running like that, only will start with lift arc. Sometimes turning the machine off then on again will restore proper operation. Looking at the manual https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O357D.pdf does not mention points & no mention of a points adjustment in the manual, so I guess there are none. Is there something I can fix or adjust or am I looking at a dealer fix?
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jamscal · Nov 26, 2016

In my experience they are all a little funny, and even saw a guy at the miller booth at a trade show doing this with a new miller dynasty and I asked him about it:

You touch the tungsten to the work before you initiate an arc and all will be fine (in my experience).

He said something about 'latent electricity' or some such and said you need to do the above sometimes. No he wasn't demonstrating lift arc either.

Probably a perfectly ground fresh tungsten and perfect ground would go a long way to help as well.

Which begs another question, what type tungsten?

Machines! · Nov 26, 2016

I can't help but to say I use a newer Dynasty 300 and it has the same issue with starting the torch. It's not all the time, and definitely more pronounced on aluminum. Usually scratching the metal with the tungsten before hitting the pedal works, but sometimes I damn near give myself fits trying to get it started on aluminum.

mTeryk · Nov 26, 2016

Same thing happens with my Dynasty 200 and two others I have used as well as one Maxstar. Just seems like it needs to find its ground or something. Seems like less of an issue if I'm grounded right to the piece I'm working on and moreso if there's a long ground path.

Doesn't really bother me much. Just touch the tungsten, lift and hit the pedal.

Teryk

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

tomjelly · Nov 27, 2016

I'll give it a try again Monday, I could see if it acted that way all the time, but because it is an intermittent issue seems to point to it being a bug rather than a feature unless I'm doing something different when it happens & I don't think I am..

Scruffy887 · Nov 27, 2016

Yup, happens on my 2+ year old Dynasty 350, and did the same at the voc school a few years ago. Push pedal, nothing happens. Lift pedal, push tip into work and lift tip, then push pedal and weld.

adama · Nov 28, 2016

Happens occasionaly on any tig i have ever used too, seams almost like the tungsten gets a insulated skin and the HF can not jump, just a touch seams to break that down and your away again.

tomjelly · Nov 28, 2016

Just tried again, everything spotless, direct ground, same problem. AC hi freq works fine, lift arc works fine, but HF start gives about a 2 cycles per second spark, does not do the shower of lightning bolts that my syncrowave 351 does, and does not follow thru with any welding power. lift pedal/touch/lift/depress pedal doesn't do anything different. Sometimes turning off the machine and trying again will work properly, but mostly I just give up and use lift arc.

Dave_C · Nov 28, 2016

Damn, I assumed it was just me and my "pre blue lightning" DX. Annoying as hell; to the point I'm tempted away from blue to other brands...

jerholz · Nov 28, 2016

Have you tried a different torch?

tomjelly · Nov 28, 2016

No but I'll do that and report back...

jamscal · Nov 28, 2016

Prob won't help the OP but I've read that hf can be adjusted on the dynasty via a 'hidden menu'

You would think it would be in the manual but if not it may be worth finding out if it's true/how to do it.

tomjelly · Nov 28, 2016

that may be true of the newer touchpad ones

tomjelly · Dec 4, 2016

Opened up the machine today after speaking with miller, it apparently does have points. They were set to .015 so I reset to .012 per miller. Still the same problem, though I can now pull away to 1/2-3/4" and get a nice shower of sparks. At closer gap, say from 1/16 to 3/8", I get the 2 Hz spark. Still no arc initiated, and everything I can see inside the machine LOOKS healthy. Miller says when set to HF remote the unit should provide arc power and then shut off the high freq when an arc is established rather than turning on power after a few seconds of high freq, which is how I initially figured it worked. Again, lift arc works fine. I'm thinking I may need to check the switch in the pedal though the pot in it works fine maybe that has something to do with it. Will swap cables torches etc and try again tomorrow....

rons · Dec 6, 2016

The dealer I bought my machine from was a full service outfit. They filled tanks with gas at their location. A full time field service guy in a business suit drove around the area to help with customer problems. I had a problem with AC on aluminium which he quickly fixed, my error. Point is:

See what Miller dealer you have in your area and if there is a field service guy.

tomjelly · Dec 6, 2016

Swapped torches and works perfectly with an air cooled torch. Spoke to miller again and he said if the first torch will work on lift arc the torch must me OK, try new internals and double the amperage so you can start at a higher amperage then back down to weld. Changed out all of the consumables, new 3/32 2% thoriated tungsten made it more intermittent, then cranking up the amps made it work fine. I was welding with a #25? (small) water cooled Weldcraft torch 1/16" tungsten on 16ga steel DCEN 120A, set it to 200 & pushing a little lighter on the pedal and now it works as it should, but still not as well as the 17 size air cooled torch which starts instantly perfectly EVERY time, same tungsten. I think that first torch just doesn't like me. I think I like the 17 size better anyway so I'll just make it so I can switch them easily.

adama · Dec 7, 2016

^ How recently did you change your coolant? Old coolant becomes conductive, may be enough to cause it to not sense correctly. Equally may be time for a new torch power lead.

tomjelly · Dec 7, 2016

Its real tig coolant, but old, clean and looks new. Can I test it by sticking 2 leads of an ohmmeter in at a certain distance apart?

rons · Dec 7, 2016

tomjelly said:
I think that first torch just doesn't like me.

Not very scientific. Things like this bite you later.

rons · Dec 7, 2016

tomjelly said:
Its real tig coolant, but old, clean and looks new. Can I test it by sticking 2 leads of an ohmmeter in at a certain distance apart?

Miller recommends coolant changes at least every year, if not 6 months. If you are fond of it, then drain it into a barrel and substitute distilled water.

Miller Dynasty DX high frequency not working correctly

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