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Millermatic 10a wire feeder rollers needed

Joined
Nov 10, 2017
Location
Madison Virginia
Hi I have a Millermatic 10a wire feeder on a Miller CP-200 machine. I need rollers for the wire feeder. I purchased the machine and the feeder rollers had been cannibalized by someone before I got it. My local Miller repair shop says Miller no longer sells the rollers. Can any one help me find rollers?
I suppose they could be made but that is above my machining ability.

IMG_20200826_110845_01.jpgIMG_20200825_084010211.jpgIMG_20200825_084044593.jpg

Steven

PS, I am sorry the pictures are sideways, they make it more difficult to view but I am not sure how to fix that.
 
I may have a set if I can remember where I put them. I will try to remember to look tomorrow.

I would be most grateful if you would have a set and be willing to part with them. I have been watching E bay and not seen any come across, maybe I need to be more patient but I am getting anxious to try out the machine and can't do it without the feeder rollers.

I have toyed with the idea of asking a machine shop to make me 10 sets and offering them here and on E-bay but have not gone quite that far yet as I fear it will be expensive.

Steven
 
I have toyed with the idea of asking a machine shop to make me 10 sets and offering them here and on E-bay but have not gone quite that far yet as I fear it will be expensive.

Better to adapt a newer "carriage" (cast aluminum parts that hold the gun and rolls) that uses the more common miller rolls that are dime a dozen. What will you do if you need another size wire?
 
Better to adapt a newer "carriage" (cast aluminum parts that hold the gun and rolls) that uses the more common miller rolls that are dime a dozen. What will you do if you need another size wire?

Can you please explain more what you are saying, are you suggesting modify this feeder or are you saying ditch the whole thing and buy a newer feeder that can be retrofitted to a Miller CP-200 machine? I am interested in what you are suggesting but I am sorry I got lost in your brief concise reply.

In reply to your question what will I do if I want to switch wire size? My answer is I don't know. I spoke with a welding shop this am who told me they have and use a feeder like what I have, when the slit in the feeder rollers wore too big he simply shaved a few thousandths off so it would grip again. I might do that, I might also keep posting a wanted here on Practical Machinist and watching E-bay hoping something comes across one of these.

Steven
 
Old MIG feeders are usually around $50 ready to go to work. How much did you spend for this parts machine?
 
Old MIG feeders are usually around $50 ready to go to work. How much did you spend for this parts machine?

You asked what I gave for the machine? I purchased a Miller CP-200 and two Millermatic 10a feeders for $115. My biggest interest is the CP-200 and getting a feeder that will work with it. Some look down on those machines as something that Noah should have left on the ark but my local Miller sales and repair man says he personally has one and they are good solid welding machines. I have seen other post on this form that speak well of that welder. If I could find a wire feeder that would mate with my CP-200 and work I would entertain it and ditch the Millermatic 10a feeder. It is true that rollers may be a difficulty for me to keep this machine working.

I have also seen on this form people say that the Millermatic 10a and the 10e are tough reliable feeders that just about don't wear out. That is part of my motivation for wanting rollers for it.

Can someone point me to a newer feeder with better availability of parts that works with a Miller CP-200?

Steven
 
Last edited:
Found them.045 smooth PM sent
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Can you please explain more what you are saying, are you suggesting modify this feeder or are you saying ditch the whole thing and buy a newer feeder that can be retrofitted to a Miller CP-200 machine? I am interested in what you are suggesting but I am sorry I got lost in your brief concise reply.

In reply to your question what will I do if I want to switch wire size? My answer is I don't know. I spoke with a welding shop this am who told me they have and use a feeder like what I have, when the slit in the feeder rollers wore too big he simply shaved a few thousandths off so it would grip again. I might do that, I might also keep posting a wanted here on Practical Machinist and watching E-bay hoping something comes across one of these.

Steven

Here is a link to an ebay listing, I am NOT suggesting to buy it, just posted to give you something to look at...
Miller 180816 Motor Super S-22P12 S-32P Constant Speed Wire Feeder Suitcase Feed | eBay
If you could find an old wire feed machine they all have something like this in them. I have an old millermatic 200 and the roller assy looks very similar to yours.
Anyway if you could get something like in the link, remove the motor and connect your motor to the drive rolls then you would be in business. The parts would have to be cheap or free to make it worth doing...

If you can run .045 wire then just get the rolls truetemper has and keep looking for other sizes. The v rolls he has will work with cored wire also if you dont tie the gun up in knots.
The newer miller rolls look like these, this is a 4 roll set though, just as common if not more so to only have 2 rollers:
Miller 046797 3/32" Wire Feed Guide Roll VK-G & Tube Kit | eBay
Any size wire or groove shape is available and common.

I used to change wire sizes more when I was just using 1 or 2 machines. Now I have more wire feeders so just get the feeder for that size wire. .023 solid wire, .045 dual shield, .045 self shielding, 1/16 self shielding. Sometimes .030 or .035 self shielding or solid wire.
 
You asked what I gave for the machine? I purchased a Miller CP-200 and two Millermatic 10a feeders for $115. My biggest interest is the CP-200 and getting a feeder that will work with it. Some look down on those machines as something that Noah should have left on the ark but my local Miller sales and repair man says he personally has one and they are good solid welding machines. I have seen other post on this form that speak well of that welder. If I could find a wire feeder that would mate with my CP-200 and work I would entertain it and ditch the Millermatic 10a feeder. It is true that rollers may be a difficulty for me to keep this machine working.

I have also seen on this form people say that the Millermatic 10a and the 10e are tough reliable feeders that just about don't wear out. That is part of my motivation for wanting rollers for it.

Can someone point me to a newer feeder with better availability of parts that works with a Miller CP-200?

Steven

Many old CV welders and feeders are that way. They're clunky old tanks. Thing is though, that welder can die tomorrow or it can live on another 50 years. I've had more than a few dead old welders that aren't worth a $100 diode and the time to tear it all apart. So don't invest much when almost new stuff isn't much more expensive.
 
I wonder if you could find the gear size and bolt a newer style wire drive roller onto the side of the gear? My miller S54A has gears and the rollers all bolt to the side of the gears. Its a pain to change wire sizes removing all the bolts and installing different rollers. CP series are good welders. Have been around for a long time and keep working.
 
My rollers in the photo above are too dig for the OP. If any one needs them they need a new home, I will never use them.
 
Alot of other feeders can be used on your welder. The cp series were some of the best welders Miller ever made and will still be welding when the modern stuff is dead. 100% duty cycle is hard to beat?
 
feed rolls miller 10a 10e

Alot of other feeders can be used on your welder. The cp series were some of the best welders Miller ever made and will still be welding when the modern stuff is dead. 100% du
cycle is hard to beat?
i have 3 new sets available $45.00 ea. Central Indiana
 
Many old CV welders and feeders are that way. They're clunky old tanks. Thing is though, that welder can die tomorrow or it can live on another 50 years. I've had more than a few dead old welders that aren't worth a $100 diode and the time to tear it all apart. So don't invest much when almost new stuff isn't much more expensive.

If you're spending $100 on a diode, you're looking in the wrong place. There's no newer machines, especially inverters, that will survive the duty cycle, AND withstand transients, dirt, and downright abuse, and appear at an opportunity cost under $200. Add an order-of-magnitude to the cost, and you'll STILL fall short of that performance class. They're simple to understand, hard to kill, easy to fix, and you won't be looking for an unobtainium IGBT.
 
If you're spending $100 on a diode, you're looking in the wrong place. There's no newer machines, especially inverters, that will survive the duty cycle, AND withstand transients, dirt, and downright abuse, and appear at an opportunity cost under $200. Add an order-of-magnitude to the cost, and you'll STILL fall short of that performance class. They're simple to understand, hard to kill, easy to fix, and you won't be looking for an unobtainium IGBT.

Last Diodes I needed for a 250 Airco were obsolete and a few on ebay at $80+ a piece.

I don't know. I have had great experiences with IGBT welders and have paid about the same for them as I have transformer CV machines that are 50 years older.
 
There's nothing particularly specific about the diodes in older welders, power supplies, and machines that require an OEM number match... simply choose a suitable form factor, equal or higher current, and equal or higher PRV. Stud mount diodes, particularly high voltage and high current, are extremely common. I replaced a set in a CP using much higher ratings, they were about $17 each from Digi-Key. I replaced a set in a 6-cylinder 500A P&H welder using similar, but larger stud-mounts in locomotive traction applications, they were $40 each from an online surplus source. Diodes are simple, easy, and not expensive.

If a welder exhibits problems with failing diodes, going much higher PRV helps substantially, as does putting a ceramic disc capacitor across the junction to snub transients. Welders generate large amounts of HF oscillations which can 'bite' a semiconductor hard enough to puncture the junction and either short, or open it. When the IGBT welder blows a puck, you'll not so easily find a replacement as an old-school diode.
 








 
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