Shear Blade Maintenance

j c · Aug 21, 2020

Any ideas how to keep shear blades in good condition? Do you keep them dry, or give them a coat of anything?

I just got a used 14 gauge hydraulic shear. It has some rust on the blades, but they seem to be in great condition. It shears perfectly without a burr.

I took steel wool and WD-40 to get some of the rust off, but the rest seems more like tarnish.

Thanks a lot

1953chevB · Aug 21, 2020

j c said:
Any ideas how to keep shear blades in good condition? Do you keep them dry, or give them a coat of anything?

I just got a used 14 gauge hydraulic shear. It has some rust on the blades, but they seem to be in great condition. It shears perfectly without a burr.

I took steel wool and WD-40 to get some of the rust off, but the rest seems more like tarnish.

Thanks a lot

steel wool will contaminate the steel , use scotch bright pads for polishing, do you have any shipping oil for parts?
a good preservative oil use to coat parts works well, commercial grade

j c · Aug 21, 2020

Ok thanks for letting me know about the steel wool. I have way oil for my lathe, or boesheild t9. Does that help with cutting at all or is that to preserve the blades only? My only concern is that the cut parts will then have some oil on them which I'll have to clean off.

jz79 · Aug 21, 2020

I'm curious what will the steel wool contaminate hardened tool steel blades with?

1953chevB · Aug 21, 2020

j c said:
Ok thanks for letting me know about the steel wool. I have way oil for my lathe, or boesheild t9. Does that help with cutting at all or is that to preserve the blades only? My only concern is that the cut parts will then have some oil on them which I'll have to clean off.

You have to remove the oil before use and clean it, with lint free cloth, and hand wipe it the coat with WD 40.
after done recoat it with oil. WD 40 doesn't last and is only temporary.

1953chevB · Aug 21, 2020

jz79 said:
I'm curious what will the steel wool contaminate hardened tool steel blades with?

well steel wool is carbon base and will leave particles of steel on the blades. that's why it's normal to passivate
stainless steel to remove those fine microscopic particles from machining that cause corrosion.(rust)

jz79 · Aug 21, 2020

stainless steel blades on a hydraulic sheet metal shear?

1953chevB · Aug 21, 2020

jz79 said:
stainless steel blades on a hydraulic sheet metal shear?

tool steel just giving an example

j c · Aug 21, 2020

Ok so oil while it sits unused, then clean with WD-40 and basically have dry blades when using. Thanks for the info. Regarding the steel wool, that's true that it can rust SS. I have no idea what it does to hardened tool steel blades though.

j c · Aug 21, 2020

I'll stick with the nylon mesh just in case.

hobbyman · Aug 21, 2020

I ran plate shears for many years.... up to 3/4 inch plate. What shortens the life of a shear blade is the operator cutting everything on the left hand side. Eventually the blade is dull for about a foot at one end.
If you are only using once a month then you indeed have to look at some lubricant or barrier from corrosion.

j c · Aug 21, 2020

That's really good to know. I will try to use both sides. And yes, I'll put a barrier when not in use.

3/4" plate... that's some thick ass plate.

Bondo · Aug 21, 2020

I use mineral oil on all my machines during the spring and fall condensation times. Works excellent. I only apply enough for a week max so I dont have big puddles.

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Bondo · Aug 21, 2020

j c said:
That's really good to know. I will try to use both sides. And yes, I'll put a barrier when not in use.

3/4" plate... that's some thick ass plate.

I used to do 1 1/4" steel. That's a bitch to move.

We shared 1 3/4 aluminum in it. That is the max that could fit in the machine.

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j c · Aug 21, 2020

I can't imagine the sound when the blades hit the metal.

I actually had no idea you could shear that thickness.

j c · Aug 21, 2020

Ok actually I just watched some videos of shearing 1" plate and it's quiet as hell

Bondo · Aug 21, 2020

You think that's hell, the shear we had was from 1940s. It used air to apply pressure to the hold downs. The 90 psi air, which took about 55 seconds to come to full pressure through the orifices, would bow a 18" thick shear bed a solid 1/4 or more.

The biggest issue with the shear is if it wasnt ran in about 2 weeks, it may cycle by itself. One time someone left a 1/2" thick base plate under the blade, accidentally, and when it cycled, it shot it over 75 feet away and almost through a cinder block wall. It broke 1 side but not the other side of the cinder block. Imagine if someone was standing there.

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Matt_Maguire · Aug 21, 2020

j c said:
That's really good to know. I will try to use both sides. And yes, I'll put a barrier when not in use.

3/4" plate... that's some thick ass plate.

If the bed doesn't have slots on the bed (this is where you place a bar like a fence on a table saw) you can usually find a way to attach a squaring fence.

In addition, the bottom table usually moves so you can set the gap between the blades. (should be in the manual). Other than Steelweld shears you can flip blades 4 times before sharpening.

All the the blades I've ever seen were W-1 or W-2 tool steel.

Good luck,
Matt

j c · Aug 21, 2020

Talk about Ghost In The Machine. That's scary it would cycle by itself. Glad no one was there for that flying piece.

That being said, I love old machinery. Especially 1940s and around there. Maybe it just got mad that you hadn't used it in 2 weeks.

j c · Aug 21, 2020

Matt_Maguire said:
If the bed doesn't have slots on the bed (this is where you place a bar like a fence on a table saw) you can usually find a way to attach a squaring fence.

In addition, the bottom table usually moves so you can set the gap between the blades. (should be in the manual). Other than Steelweld shears you can flip blades 4 times before sharpening.

All the the blades I've ever seen were W-1 or W-2 tool steel.

Good luck,
Matt

Ahh that's how you set the gap. I was wondering. That actually seems fairly simple. There are 2 large bolts on either side, that must be the adjustment. Thanks for telling me that. It came with 2 t-slot rails in the front and on the table. I took them off, I think I'm going to do a top-down spring type jig where I can locate pieces with pins in drilled holes in the material. That way they stay flat on the table as well.

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