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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post

    Have a pix or linky to "ranger Smiths" ?


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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mcgyver View Post
    Where's the camper ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Where's the camper ?
    Running away with Yogi's pic-a-nic basket.

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  6. #44
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    As an aside- we camp each year in a pull up National Park campground with no hookups so folk are working out meeting power.
    As a kid my dad had a car battery in the tent camper for lights and would trade it for the one in the wagon about half way through trip to charge.

    The last bunch of years solar panels are everywhere- lots of campers setting out small arrays to keep their house batteries charged.
    So....
    Most folk don’t know the basics about lead acid batteries- cycle depth etc so I have been wondering when li-ion would begin to make inroads to the camper market as it has in yachts.

    I found this yesterday:

    Nissan gives the Opus inflatable camping trailer a week of off-grid adventure power

    High-tech Nissan x Opus aims to be the ultimate '''glamper''' | Fox News

    A quick check and yes- Nissan Leaf battery packs are everywhere on E-Bay.
    It appears for auto use they are pulled when capacity for the pack reaches 65%.
    So a used 8lb 3.2v module has about about 42 amp hour capacity.
    I guess I would be looking at a 4 module pack - 32lbs for 160 amp hours with no low draw down penalties....
    Let’s say a 200 watt solar array, dc fridge pulling about 35 amp hours/day plus a few for lights etc.
    Seems the relatively small pack could carry fridge and lights etc over no solar input periods if the charge state was not so critical as in lead acid.

    Might be worth screwing with even given the need for li-ion chargers and potential to burn the place down if the storage/charge regime is missed..
    I guess I could weld up a burn box eh?

  7. #45
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    Kinda negates the upside to camping when you set up satellites, wifi, and solar cells eh ?

    Decompress and simply-fi.

    I work with a guy that outfitted a box trailer as a camper toyhauler.
    goes down to the hills for 4x4 trail riding.

    Solar, inverter, LED lamps, and batteries is all he needs.
    why not a propane fridge ? (actually they are 3 way, so will work on solar
    when avail, switch to propane when needed)

  8. #46
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    Simplicity- more to that question than meets the eye.

    DC reefer?

    One of my clients undertook a major rebuild of a large yacht and switched horses mid stream.
    I caught him as he was tossing $3k worth of brand new Frigoboat gear in the dumpster including a custom built top/side load box- with door, led lights gel coated interior, shelves the whole mess.
    So there it sits in my shop looking for a home and my trailer project will be it.

    If you have ever gone to a boat show the reps have these little demo cooler setups with a car battery running them stashed under the bench.
    I was going to go that route and install the gear in one of our coolers but this guy did such a nice job on the box I might just install it as made.

    Many of our friends have the tripower units- they work.
    There is a certain simplicity though to having the fridge rocking off of just the solar/batteries (to my mind, and free gear is well.. free...).
    The serious RV guys are more of home dragging along with them- their units are near full size refrigerator/freezers and they set out from home with crocks of frozen gumbo and the like.

    I just want to slow down the chip ice use a bit.

    The DC reefers are very commonly installed gear in the yacht world now.
    When it hit the market it was something of a revolution to go away from the big engine driven compressor/cold plate units.
    Highly efficient- 6 amp draw on about 1/3 of the hour.

    FRIGOBOAT


    I’m getting some of the build details down-
    I am thinking foam cored abs skinned skirt walls with simple picture frame.
    No stud.
    Last edited by Trboatworks; 08-02-2019 at 08:46 AM.

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  10. #47
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    Just a update.
    This is a go- I am building this now.
    As it turned out I am fabricating everything from the hubs up.
    The chassis is a-la boat trailer frame- formed and bolted I-beam with torsion cartridge half axles (I am using the Flexiride 3.5 units).

    Above the chassis all is 6061 welded construction.
    Lots of skinned structural foam going in for the panel work following lightweight marine build techniques.

    I am targeting 1000-1200 pounds all up for the empty camper with a footprint of 7’8”x12’6” stowed size and 7’8”x24’ erected.

    None of the frame build is particularly outstanding but it does have some interesting design bits.
    I will post photos as it comes together.

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  12. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Above the chassis all is 6061 welded construction.
    Lots of skinned structural foam going in for the panel work following lightweight marine build techniques.
    Aw shoot, I thought you'd be strip planking it

    That Beauer of Digger's would be even cooler if you did the nose like a Steib sidecar ... do it cold-molded and it could be real purty. And it wouldn't rattle !

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  14. #49
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    As cool as this would be it’s NOT going to look like this....

    e485fc4f-0510-4fe2-bd72-d9155fd26734.jpg


    Certain irony for a chippy but I am decades past my wood is cool design stage.
    Lots of fit to use design thought going into this rig and while I might cold mold some fiddles or the like on a cabinet there taint gonna be no lumber anywhere...

  15. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Just a update.
    This is a go- I am building this now.
    As it turned out I am fabricating everything from the hubs up.
    The chassis is a-la boat trailer frame- formed and bolted I-beam with torsion cartridge half axles (I am using the Flexiride 3.5 units).

    Above the chassis all is 6061 welded construction.
    Lots of skinned structural foam going in for the panel work following lightweight marine build techniques.

    I am targeting 1000-1200 pounds all up for the empty camper with a footprint of 7’8”x12’6” stowed size and 7’8”x24’ erected.

    None of the frame build is particularly outstanding but it does have some interesting design bits.
    I will post photos as it comes together.
    This just popped up.
    All Aluminum 2004 Dual TORSION Axles NEW Tires/Rims **** CHEAP**** - trailers - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

    Note torsion axles, and smaller tires, (to lower floor) and tandem.

    Note empty and gross weights.

  16. #51
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    Thanks Doug I am good to go.
    Some assembly required....

    76242cd7-b6fb-4648-b028-708d0448cd45.jpg

  17. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Thanks Doug I am good to go.
    Some assembly required....

    76242cd7-b6fb-4648-b028-708d0448cd45.jpg
    Yes, I just posted it for an example for some weight guidance.

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  19. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Thanks Doug I am good to go.
    Some assembly required....

    76242cd7-b6fb-4648-b028-708d0448cd45.jpg
    Well, damn, expect to see some completed pics by Monday!

  20. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    As cool as this would be it’s NOT going to look like this....

    e485fc4f-0510-4fe2-bd72-d9155fd26734.jpg


    Certain irony for a chippy but I am decades past my wood is cool design stage.
    Lots of fit to use design thought going into this rig and while I might cold mold some fiddles or the like on a cabinet there taint gonna be no lumber anywhere...
    Surprised Thermite has not commented on the application of a spray on bedliner all over the inside, with a floor drain.....

  21. #55
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    Damn thing is gonna end up looking like one of those crazy aluminum boats from the 50’s.
    There is a certain insanity to design work- or maybe just some folk are certainly insane...

    95ba94f5-4cde-4268-b732-019d2f826fd4.jpg

    0cba27aa-5ea0-4770-b0f8-524372b76b35.jpg

  22. #56
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    I just want to know if it'll float when you're done with it.

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  24. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    I just want to know if it'll float when you're done with it.
    Yep- It’s gonna be ready for the next time we need to invade Newfoundland. Or was that Norway… I forget now.

  25. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Yep- It’s gonna be ready for the next time we need to invade Newfoundland. Or was that Norway… I forget now.
    A periscope would be nice.....Just sayin'

    And some long shag carpet on the ceiling....
    YouTube

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  27. #59
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    Guys- I have lots of butt welds to do in this project with 1/8” 6061-T6 plate.
    What is the best approach to keep distortion to a minimum?

    This fitup is typical and backside:

    6e75b972-3308-41c1-bd18-381401bf1dff.jpg

    I am thinking to tack backside, flip and full weld face.
    No bevel.
    Stitch welding that stiffener both sides.
    Welds left as formed- no grind before paint.

    I am thinking to clamp to plate before welding.
    I guess I could work it over with a hard rubber mallet after welding if needed.

    This doesn’t need perfection- just reasonably flat.

    Thanks all.

  28. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trboatworks View Post
    Guys- I have lots of butt welds to do in this project with 1/8” 6061-T6 plate.
    What is the best approach to keep distortion to a minimum?

    This fitup is typical and backside:

    6e75b972-3308-41c1-bd18-381401bf1dff.jpg

    I am thinking to tack backside, flip and full weld face.
    No bevel.
    Stitch welding that stiffener both sides.
    Welds left as formed- no grind before paint.

    I am thinking to clamp to plate before welding.
    I guess I could work it over with a hard rubber mallet after welding if needed.

    This doesn’t need perfection- just reasonably flat.

    Thanks all.
    Rivets....flush ones......


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