What is your process for brazing blades?
I don't have a picture handy, but 20+ years ago I bought a kit with a simple jig, some flux and some brazing ribbon marketed primarily to woodworkers.
This product is a bit more elaborate than what I got. Basically, the jig provides two reference planes to align the blade ends and two clamps to hold them in position. The reference planes have a gap so the joint is in free air, ready to be torched.
My first step is to scarf the ends of the blade. Hold the loose blade ends in the desired relative position (teeth on the same side of the blade, etc). Then "fold" the not-yet-brazed joint so that the loose blade ends rest on top of one another. Shift the end on top so it sticks out further than the end on the bottom. Hold them in this position and take them to the bench grinder. Grind the ends on a plane tilted roughly 15 degrees to make long, shallow faces on both ends at the same time. This increases the joint surface area tremendously. By grinding both ends at the same angle, when you "unfold" the joint for brazing the ground joint faces will match automatically.
Second step is to place the blade ends in the jig. If you haven't already done so, clean the ends of the blade so there's no oil, resin, or other junk near the joint-to-be. I place the ground faces in contact, not trying to allow anything for joint thickness. If the blade ends aren't flat, bend them so they are in
light spring contact. The jig provides locators for the faces and backs of the blade ends, so you really only have to pay attention to axial positioning. After clamping the blade ends, the blade should look pretty much continuous even before brazing. If there's a noticeable kink, angular mismatch, or other discontinuity, fix it now.
After the blade is secure, flux the joint and place a bit of brazing alloy in the joint. I
much prefer the flat ribbon for this operation over the usual small diameter rounds. Then heat the joint with a propane or MAPP torch until the brazing alloy melts. Let the joint cool, then grind off any flash or excess thickness in the joint.
This works pretty much 100% of the time on blades of 3/4x0.025" or smaller. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work on larger (say, 1x0.035" or 1.25x0.045") blades, but don't have 1st hand experience with that.