repair of cast iron pulley

I'm in the midst of repair/rebuild of a Sheldon 13" lathe and the dual sheave pulley on the upper countershaft has a chunk broken out about the size of half of a 50 cent piece. Probably will pull OK, but might induce vibration thru the belts to the spindle. So I want to remove the pulley, weld it up and remachine the sheave affected.
I'm a "fair to middling" weldor at best on cast iron. Trying to decide on the best method and filler rod to use. I have AO,stick, mig, and tig available in my shop.
I have brazing rods and flux, ni-rods, and silicon bronze tig rods. I have some ni rods that are left over from an old project of cast iron welding that have seen better days as far as the flux coating goes. Been thinking of cleaning the flux off these rods, cleanig the cast iron surface with a carbide burr, and using the tig to more closely control the filler rod flow.
Anybody ever tried a tig on cast iron?

SIR,
yes, i have used tig for cast iron.
i use 308ss rod, and it has worked
very well. i use a die grinder to "V"
the part. if the part is broken in two'
pieces, i clamp them together,and tack them on the ends, and then i use the die grinder.
i post heat with a mapp torch, and then
do the tig. when it is finished, i cover the
part so it cools slowly.
good luck with your projects.
wlbrown

THX wlbrown, for the advice. In this case it's going to be a matter of weld bead buildup, as I don't have the piece that broke out. Will the 308 SS work OK for the bead build up?
I never thought of using SS for this, but I have 308, 410, and 17-4ph rods for my prop shop work that I can use for this. When I am repairing a SS prop, I routinely use a copper back up, spaced back enough for bead build up protusion and gas flow on the back side and then build up to above parent metal level on front side.
Then comes the hard work, grinding back flush and smooth with the resr of the blade on the prop!

SIR,
i don't see any reason you could not use
ss buildup. is there any tapped holes
in the area you plan to weld? i had a
problem with a pulley years ago. it was from
a tractor, the owner had pulled it off a shaft
after he removed the set screw. it turns out
there was another set screw under the first one,
and the pulley broke when he used the puller.
i welded it back, and when it cooled, i drilled,
and tapped a new hole, 180 degrees from the
old one. the weld was in the area of the first
tapped hole, and it was very hard.
good luck with your projects.
wlbrown