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repairing a 1045 shaft

Cole2534

Diamond
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
Neighbor came over earlier with a broken shaft from some machine. The shaft parted from a torque load but they swapped it with another identical shaft and now this repaired unit is going back as an idler until its replacement arrives. Maybe a conveyor belt? I dunno.

Anyway, I beveled the ends, lined it up in a vee block to get it straight and then filled it up with ER70s6 and the TIG box. Shaft came out straight as an arrow (go me) but then I realized this was probably 1045 vs the 1018 I was anticipating. I have couple questions-

1) which filler would one use to weld up 1045?

2) are pre/post heat specs super critical? I can't toss it in the heat treat oven, there's a rubber widget bonded to one end.

3) in the interest of letting such a weld cool as slowly as possible, what mediums can a guy use expediently to somewhat insulate it? Sand?

If the shaft fails at my weld I'll put a collar over it until the new part arrives, that was their second choice anyhow, but I'm just curious as to how I could improve.
 
Can't answer your other questions, but hot rolled 1045 is about the same strength as ER70s-6. The HAZ is going to be no stronger than HR. Post weld stress relief of the weld HAZ will likely be needed if an martensite formed and in 1045 that can be a coin toss.
 
For unknown but likely better grade steel that has to work I use one of the varieties of Supermissile type rod, which is basically a modified 312 stainless.
 
I get lots of farm repair stuff like that. I've had good luck with a preheat, weld and immediate peen with needle scaler routine.
 
Awesome. How's needle life?

Sent via CNC 88HS

I don't think I've replaced them. They still look decent. I have a few others, similar style, USA made that are well used with some bent and shorter needles.

When I was the military I was in charge of tools for my ship. I would take all the worn out needle scalers home when they were done. I'd patch them back together and keep them. They were never as good as a new one. I kind of treasured that new one I bought and babied it with frequent oilings. I don't shove the needles in a hole or throw it on the floor. It'll probably last my lifetime.
 
Neighbor came over earlier with a broken shaft from some machine. The shaft parted from a torque load but they swapped it with another identical shaft and now this repaired unit is going back as an idler until its replacement arrives. Maybe a conveyor belt? I dunno.

Anyway, I beveled the ends, lined it up in a vee block to get it straight and then filled it up with ER70s6 and the TIG box. Shaft came out straight as an arrow (go me) but then I realized this was probably 1045 vs the 1018 I was anticipating. I have couple questions-

1) which filler would one use to weld up 1045?

2) are pre/post heat specs super critical? I can't toss it in the heat treat oven, there's a rubber widget bonded to one end.

3) in the interest of letting such a weld cool as slowly as possible, what mediums can a guy use expediently to somewhat insulate it? Sand?

If the shaft fails at my weld I'll put a collar over it until the new part arrives, that was their second choice anyhow, but I'm just curious as to how I could improve.

You have some good advice on peening after. I would post heat uniform and put in a pile of lime to cool at least overnight.
Lime will cool slower than fine sand but it can make a mess. I have a drum cut in half like a covered bbq keeps breeze from blowing around.
We repair shafts and cast gear box's this way all the time. Also works great to slow cool hyd cyl ends etc after welding.
 
You have some good advice on peening after. I would post heat uniform and put in a pile of lime to cool at least overnight.
Lime will cool slower than fine sand but it can make a mess. I have a drum cut in half like a covered bbq keeps breeze from blowing around.
We repair shafts and cast gear box's this way all the time. Also works great to slow cool hyd cyl ends etc after welding.
Thanks!

You still interested in that lathe?

Sent via CNC 88HS
 








 
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