Replacing swivel pad on C-clamp?

rexmo · Nov 10, 2006

I could swear I saw an article describing how to fabricate replacement pads for C-clamps. Does anyone have a link to this?

More and more I'm convinced that Google is designed for not re-locating finding something it showed before.

aametalmaster · Nov 10, 2006

I saw some replacements in http://www.mcmaster.com page 2435...Bob

Bernie/MA · Nov 23, 2006

I fabbed a clamp pad once by cutting a washer in half to go above the ball and welding it to another for the bottom. You can use holesaw slugs if you need something heavier.

David/toledo · Nov 26, 2006

Have one some one made out of brass. First layer was drilled and slited in Quaters. and sec was sloulder to the first.
David/Toledo

jigwelder · Nov 28, 2006

I replace my C clamp pads with a new C clamp from Harbor Freight Tools.

gpete · Dec 1, 2006

i have repaired heavy duty clamps from the flea mkt by taking a 3/4 long piece of 1 inch bar and slotting it 3/8 deep on one end leaving 6 tabs on that end which can be bent over to hold the new end in place. of course you also must drill that end to the diameter of tne ball b4 milling

Damien W · Dec 19, 2006

A fabricator should search for the ultimate Armstrong boilermaker type "C" clamp which usually has a large sometimes 1" or bigger square-headed set screw with no swivel cap.

But a range of clamping devices from the in-house fabricated wedge and dog to the "T-bar" sash cramps mostly thought of as a woodworking tool would be an ideal situation.

You can never have too many clamps except for those sliding "F" clamps that come loose so easily.

wlpier · Dec 19, 2006

Ran across a short article in an old Popular Mechanics. Those old magazines are great for ideas like that.

The writer took a bolt, appropriate size, cut the threads off, but left a short stud. Then he drilled the end out of the remaining stud for the clamp ball, sawed some slots and heated and peened them over the clamp ball. Looked simple.

Hope this helps.

chuckey · Dec 26, 2006

How about this:- The problem I find with C clamps is that, to adjust the position for the bits being clamped there is no spring in the system to maintain friction. What I mean is you clamp everything up tight , then you loosen a clamp, tap the bit to "adjust" its position, nothing!, loosen the clamp a bit more and b******, the whole thing falls apart! For cold working the easiest way would be to fix a disc to the original pad with the THICK (2mm) double sided tape. But for yoo boys who do welding the tape would catch fire, so some sort of metal spring would be required, such as a belleville washer. The problem then is how do you fix it? Any way food for thought at this stage.
Frank
frank

RLamparter · Sep 25, 2010

McMaster has them

aametalmaster said:
I saw some replacements in McMaster-Carr page 2435...Bob

They do indeed have them. They're called "Replacement Swivel Pads for C-Clamps", but are on page 2567 of the current (Sept 2010) catalog. The smallest size has a pad diamter of 1".

tailstock · Sep 25, 2010

This works well, but might be a bit labor intense. First take a half or three quarter inch nut or what ever size works, bore out the threads till it is size for size with the ball on clamp rod. Heat nut and slide over ball. next weld punch blank of proper size on to nut. If you can find someone with an ironworker you'll find enough punch blanks to last a life time.

Newman109 · Sep 26, 2010

I bought a vintage 12" C clamp at a swap meet many years ago. It was missing the foot. I turned one out of some scrap rod on my lathe that fit over the ball portion of the threaded part with a collar. I then heated the collar and peened it around the ball. It's still on there and the clamp works nicely.

As mentioned above, McMaster also sells them,

adama · Sep 26, 2010

I just make them out of bar ends. Drill the hole over size and simply turn the shoulder - foot to the same shape as a new one but with a 1mm thick raised rim around the hole. Clamp g clamp to desk and rivet - form the rim over to hold it on. No need to slit makes it way to inclined to open up. Diamiter wise i just make them the same as the foot of the clamp. A few of my woodworking clamps have a 2" pad though, and a coresponding 2" slug on the foot. Chamfer the edges out at a shallow angle and no need to mess with wooden blocks to prevent marking.

Cole2534 · Sep 27, 2010

I've made them before by axially tapping the threaded portion and then building a steel 'shoe'. Turn the 'shoe' to whatever size you desire then C/bore a hole axially into it. Use a shoulder bolt to keep them together.

Toolmaker51 · May 17, 2020

All the methods work. But there is one additional step worthwhile when convenient. Drill the hole just over depth to engage the ball with the top peened over. Finish the seat with a ball endmill, just SHORT of drilled depth, leaving a cavity in the bottom. They swivel better and don't 'walk' when tightening.

Any and all bozos riding me (one in particular) chiming in on old posts, take a running jump. Collectively.

Rob F. · May 17, 2020

Toolmaker51 said:
All the methods work. But there is one additional step worthwhile when convenient. Drill the hole just over depth to engage the ball with the top peened over. Finish the seat with a ball endmill, just SHORT of drilled depth, leaving a cavity in the bottom. They swivel better and don't 'walk' when tightening.

This sounds great, I have several that walk around when tightening, sure is a pain when trying to line something up. Several others need shoes re attached, Maybe a good job for the turret attachment on lathe, when time allows :skep:

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Replacing swivel pad on C-clamp?

rexmo

Plastic

aametalmaster

Diamond

Bernie/MA

Plastic

David/toledo

Hot Rolled

jigwelder

Aluminum

gpete

Aluminum

Damien W

Stainless

wlpier

Aluminum

chuckey

Stainless

RLamparter

Hot Rolled

tailstock

Hot Rolled

Newman109

Diamond

adama

Diamond

Cole2534

Diamond

Toolmaker51

Cast Iron

Rob F.

Diamond

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