What's new
What's new

shear gap adjustment

j c

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Location
Queens
I recently got a used 14 gauge Jorg hydraulic shear in my shop and need some advice about how to adjust the blade gap. I've only had a jump shear in the past. There are the two large bolts on the sides of the table, and the double nut and threaded rod at the front ends of the table. I will post a photo. Do I loosed the side bolts then adjust the front?
JORG.jpg

Also, does anyone know how to stop the shear at a certain point so I can check the blade gap? The electrical box looks like it's in good shape.
 
I recently got a used 14 gauge Jorg hydraulic shear in my shop and need some advice about how to adjust the blade gap. I've only had a jump shear in the past. There are the two large bolts on the sides of the table, and the double nut and threaded rod at the front ends of the table. I will post a photo. Do I loosed the side bolts then adjust the front?
View attachment 297856

Also, does anyone know how to stop the shear at a certain point so I can check the blade gap? The electrical box looks like it's in good shape.

You're correct on loosening the side bolts, and using the double nut to adjust. You're only moving the bed a few thousandths, so it's not a matter of loosening one bolt, and tightening up the other, instead you're keeping both tight, and just slightly increasing or decreasing the pressure - you shouldn't ever truly loosen one of the nuts.

Does the shear not have a jog function, or does it always complete a cycle when the pedal is pushed?
 
Ok thanks a lot for your response. So I move that nut that's closer to the bed? What does the outer nut do? I'll post closeup photo. I thought it would be a nut and jam-nut setup. Also, those bolts on the side are really stuck on there. Is a regular old socket wrench the best way to loosen them, or could I just let them stay tightened? Excuse the stupid questions.

I realized I said the shear was hydraulic, but it's mechanical. Not sure how I got that wrong. And I just figured out how to jog it as I'm writing this. I just flip it on and off. It looks like the left side has a lot more gap than the right.

a.jpg
 
I realized I said the shear was hydraulic, but it's mechanical. Not sure how I got that wrong. And I just figured out how to jog it as I'm writing this. I just flip it on and off. It looks like the left side has a lot more gap than the right.

If it's mechanical, not hydraulic, it's not going to have a jog option, and I don't think flipping the motor on and off is going to do what you think it will.

On the shears I've worked with, there's a hex in the end of the motor shaft (opposite of the gearbox - outside end of the motor) that you can turn with a ratchet. There should also be a way to manually engage the clutch - on my Niagara, removing a cover gets access to the clutch engagement linkage - just push the linkage in by hand.

I've never heard of that brand, much less seen one in the flesh, but regardless, there should be some way to engage the clutch and spin it over manually - just need to poke around and find what it is.

So I move that nut that's closer to the bed? What does the outer nut do? I'll post closeup photo. I thought it would be a nut and jam-nut setup. Also, those bolts on the side are really stuck on there. Is a regular old socket wrench the best way to loosen them, or could I just let them stay tightened? Excuse the stupid questions.

Both of those nuts are on the same threaded rod, right? Can't see if there's a gap, or if that's a shadowline. Assuming those are what we think they are (can't really see what I'm looking at in that picture), then tightening one should move the bed forward, tightening the other should move it backwards. Better pics would help. It's possible those are something completely unrelated, and the nuts we're looking for are under the bed.

Regardless you will have to loosen the side bolts, as they're what hold the bed position fixed, otherwise you'll never get the bed to move (they also hold the bed to the legs, so just crack them loose, don't take them out).
 
Just finished adjusting the gap on the new shear. It seemed daunting but with your help it turned out to be dead easy. I’m really happy now, before it was bending the sheet like a brake on the one side, now it shears it like a hot knife through bubble-water.

Thanks again for the detailed advice. Shearing Is Caring.:cloud9:
 
If it's mechanical, not hydraulic, it's not going to have a jog option, and I don't think flipping the motor on and off is going to do what you think it will.

On the shears I've worked with, there's a hex in the end of the motor shaft (opposite of the gearbox - outside end of the motor) that you can turn with a ratchet. There should also be a way to manually engage the clutch - on my Niagara, removing a cover gets access to the clutch engagement linkage - just push the linkage in by hand.

I've never heard of that brand, much less seen one in the flesh, but regardless, there should be some way to engage the clutch and spin it over manually - just need to poke around and find what it is.



Both of those nuts are on the same threaded rod, right? Can't see if there's a gap, or if that's a shadowline. Assuming those are what we think they are (can't really see what I'm looking at in that picture), then tightening one should move the bed forward, tightening the other should move it backwards. Better pics would help. It's possible those are something completely unrelated, and the nuts we're looking for are under the bed.

Regardless you will have to loosen the side bolts, as they're what hold the bed position fixed, otherwise you'll never get the bed to move (they also hold the bed to the legs, so just crack them loose, don't take them out).

Thanks Fish On, that worked perfectly. Flipping it on and off worked for me although it's not that accurate. Moving the linkage by hand is a great idea though, that's easily accessible on the side. Got this shear tuned up and ready to roll now. Thanks again
 
The gap can be adjusted at every position where a bolt is to tighten the blade
I think the adjustment is in the top blade
After you have adjusted the far ends you lower the knive to the next bolt and there you adjust the gap Then to the next one till you have had them all
That way the gap is the same over its lenght
Jorg is a dutch compagnie that still excists
Peter
 
The gap can be adjusted at every position where a bolt is to tighten the blade
I think the adjustment is in the top blade
After you have adjusted the far ends you lower the knive to the next bolt and there you adjust the gap Then to the next one till you have had them all
That way the gap is the same over its lenght
Jorg is a dutch compagnie that still excists
Peter

Hi Peter, glad to know that Jorg exists still in Holland. It's very well built, I'm glad to have it. There was a machinery importer here in Brooklyn who brought over machines from Germany and Holland I think. This one ended up at a sheet metal slitting shop down the street from him where I picked it up. I think all the screws are metric, but did Holland have the imperial system a few decades back? I think the machine is from the 70s.

Here is a photo of the back of the shear. So, these bolts I'll adjust one at a time right? There seems to be a soft/dull spot on the far right end of the blade. I'm not sure if that can be adjusted, however, or if it's just a dull part of the blade from overuse on that side.

b.jpg
 
Here is a photo of the back of the shear. So, these bolts I'll adjust one at a time right? There seems to be a soft/dull spot on the far right end of the blade. I'm not sure if that can be adjusted, however, or if it's just a dull part of the blade from overuse on that side.

View attachment 298011

knives are flippable and rotateable, to get 4 cutting edges out of one set of knives. You might find that the knives are currently in the 4th rotation, or you might find that you have a good set or two of corners left.

Peter may know something about those that I don't, so I'll defer to him if that's the case, but from that picture, it sure looks like it adjusts in the same manner that the American made ones I've worked on adjust. Meaning, the bed moves front to back to adjust the ends, and then that big nut in the back center of the upper assembly adjusts the middle. From the looks of it, the only way to adjust at each bolt would be with bits of shimstock.

I'm assuming you're using a feeler gauge to accurately measure the gap. Some sources recommend 7% - 10% of the material being cut. Others, namely old mechanical shears, (my 10 gauge Niagara, for instance), recommends a .003" clearance, regardless of material thickness.
 
I think the knives have a good edge at the bottom. If you see the photo, there's a dull spot like a chamfer on the top where it's been used a lot. But, that bottom edge not being used looks good I think, so maybe I can flip it.

I think the bolts have to be shimmed, I don't think they have a push-pull system. But so far it doesn't seem to have variation across the blade much.

Do you think I can just flip the bottom blade, the top seems to be ok. Or do you normally flip both top and bottom at the same time?



c.jpg
 

Attachments

  • c.jpg
    c.jpg
    95.3 KB · Views: 68
I think the knives have a good edge at the bottom. If you see the photo, there's a dull spot like a chamfer on the top where it's been used a lot. But, that bottom edge not being used looks good I think, so maybe I can flip it.

I think the bolts have to be shimmed, I don't think they have a push-pull system. But so far it doesn't seem to have variation across the blade much.

Do you think I can just flip the bottom blade, the top seems to be ok. Or do you normally flip both top and bottom at the same time?



View attachment 298122

Flip 'em both. They both should more or less wear the same, so if one needs flipping, the other does too.
 
Flip 'em both. They both should more or less wear the same, so if one needs flipping, the other does too.

Ok will do, thanks a lot. I'll probably have more questions when I take them off.

Also, I asked Peter if Holland switched to the metric system a few decades back. It turns out they switched in 1799. So I think my shear is metric.

:willy_nilly:
 
No push/pull system on the lower knives eighter ???
Perhaps not on a short shear like this
We used a lott of Withworth nuts and bolts till up in the 60ies
Then we went all metric with these too
Peter
 
No push/pull I don't think. Just an M8 bolt with an oversized hole in the casting. I'm guessing the oversized hole is for adjusting the rake angle?

v.jpg
 
Hi, I got my blades sharpened finally and am trying this again. I never found out how to engage the clutch or advance the motor. I can't seem to budge the linkage by hand. Any idea how to get this to advance by hand so I can adjust the blades? Here are some pics.

IMG_4346.jpg[/ATTACH]IMG_4348.jpgIMG_4349.jpgIMG_4350.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4347.jpg
    IMG_4347.jpg
    88.5 KB · Views: 54
Ok I've got another question. The far left, and the far right of the blade have about .003" clearance where the blade edges meet. I adjusted the sides of the table to get that clearance. I don't think I can go much closer, I'm afraid of the blades crashing. But there's a larger gap in the middle. Around .008-.009" or so. Should I turn the truss nut in the middle of the top ram to bow it in first? Or should I shim the top blade? IMG_4352.jpg
 








 
Back
Top