shear gap adjustment - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Turn the nut Thats what it is for


    Peter

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  3. #22
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    Yes that worked! Thanks

  4. #23
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    Is this machine bolted down? You should have it bolted down if you expect the clearances to remain as you set them.

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    Yes I bolted it down today. It was shaking a lot when I had it on machine mounts. I don't know if I needed to shim it, it's a little off level.

  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    Is this machine bolted down? You should have it bolted down if you expect the clearances to remain as you set them.
    Our press brake went out of tram after 6 months of use not bolted down. It was off by several degrees from one end to the other when we set it down, we dialed it in perfectly, then it slowly wandered cockeyed over the next few months.

    Definitely important to bolt stuff down.

  8. #26
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    Yeah I have a Atek Bantam, 2 foot press brake. I have it on a type of pallet I made to move it around. The guy at Atek said it wouldn't make a difference performance-wise. Do you think smaller machinery tools, like the Atek, or my Southbend 9" lathe still need to be bolted? Also, do you shim to level the machines before bolting onto concrete or just do it as is?

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by j c View Post
    Yeah I have a Atek Bantam, 2 foot press brake. I have it on a type of pallet I made to move it around. The guy at Atek said it wouldn't make a difference performance-wise. Do you think smaller machinery tools, like the Atek, or my Southbend 9" lathe still need to be bolted? Also, do you shim to level the machines before bolting onto concrete or just do it as is?
    That particular brake is a very small machine with limited tonnage and not much span to flex. I would consider that more of a bench top machine IMO. Any machine meant to sit on a bench or a stand will not benefit from being bolted down except to prevent it from vibrating away, being stolen, or tipped over.

    You definitely level equipment as much as possible prior to bolting it down. Many have adjusting feet.

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  11. #28
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    I'll go back and level the shear then, and bolt it again. And good to know about the brake, thank you.

  12. #29
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    Yes Level as a way to get the machine square in all directions
    Check the gap again and make the gap bigger to start with as the gap might have been narrowed and knifes might hit oneanother
    Had a customer once who bought a shear from me and put power on it on the trailer
    Knives hit and a piece of the edge of the casting broke out

    Peter

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  14. #30
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    When I got my shear (used Pexto 12ga) and went through the blade adjustment I had to adjust the truss nut, a lot. I would start there as that is the design intent of the truss being adjustable. On my machine 8-9 thou clearance will not cut well and leave a large burr. Just my two cents

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    replaced many a shear blade . We always set them to cut paper/

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    Quote Originally Posted by drylakemachine View Post
    replaced many a shear blade . We always set them to cut paper/
    Oke
    A shear with a 20mm capacitiy you set the gap to cut paper the same as one that cuts 0.1mm???

    Peter

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    really good to know, thanks

  18. #34
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    So you set the gap so that paper can be cut at any point on the blade?

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    Yeah I had to bring out the truss nut pretty far after sharpening the blades. The nut is almost as far as it can go now. The middle of the blade seems to have a little more of a banging sound to it still, while the ends are very quiet when they cut. Maybe a little bit of a burr in the middle too.

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    Ok I just tried cutting paper. That's a great way to see how the gap is set. It cuts in the middle but on the ends it folds the paper . I thought I had the ends closer, but I guess it was the other way around.

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    Gap is 5% of sheetthickness So for 10mm sheet the gap is 0.5mm
    Will that cut paper ??
    For 3mm it is 0.15mm
    What gap you need to cut paper??

    Peter

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    I'm cutting .030" and .048" inch thick stainless. So my gap is really small, around .003" or even less. I think the gap is almost zero at parts. I'm able to cut paper in the middle of the blade, I still have to adjust the ends.

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    Just don't overdo it. The sound of crashing sheer blades is one I won't forget.

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    He said that's the way he always set them. He didn't say that is the correct way to set them


    Quote Originally Posted by Peter from Holland View Post
    Oke
    A shear with a 20mm capacitiy you set the gap to cut paper the same as one that cuts 0.1mm???
    Peter

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