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Sheet metal freight damage on lathe doors.... press brake attachment work ?

I would press it straight just using a V block and a90dgr upperdie loose Without the guides and spring Press as hard as you can Radius on the upperdie must be the same or bigger Then get al the paint of Smoothen with filler and spraypaint the whole thing again

Peter
 
Can be done but anytime metal is bent it stretches so if you want a high class job you may need to "shrink" a few spots with a torch. If you aren't confident about that maybe straighten with a press brake and then ask an auto body shop to do the final work.

IMO if it is a high end expensive machine Bondo type fillers are a no-no and leading would be the way. Big problem is any wrinkles requiring filler will be visible on the inside if the panel is removed. A top-notch auto body shop can do it so well no one will ever know.
 
Can be done but anytime metal is bent it stretches so if you want a high class job you may need to "shrink" a few spots with a torch. If you aren't confident about that maybe straighten with a press brake and then ask an auto body shop to do the final work.

IMO if it is a high end expensive machine Bondo type fillers are a no-no and leading would be the way. Big problem is any wrinkles requiring filler will be visible on the inside if the panel is removed. A top-notch auto body shop can do it so well no one will ever know.

A good sheet metal shop could probably just make a new door easier/faster.
 
If I took those to my vintage autobody shop owner friend he'd probably have it ready for paint in a few hours. If I took it to my sheetmetal shop friend I'd have new ones in a couple hours.

The trick my sheetmetal shop friend usually uses on stuff like that is to squish them mostly straight again real quick in a press brake and then he forms up a thin brushed stainless "wrap" that attaches to the old painted part and holds it straight/covers the damaged paint. Usually looks slick, like it was made that way.
 
I have one of those "press brake" gadgets at work, altho a different brand. It is about 1.5 steps above worthless, as it flexes too much. That said it would get you started in the correct direction, but it would take some careful hammer and dolly work after the "press brake" action to get it to look original. As has already been stated, a re-paint will also be required.
 
I'd say everything looks relatively straight forward to correct except for where the dent goes across the 90 bend near the hinges in the door on the right. Lots of stress in that area.
 
Just take a steel block, about 2" x 2" x 4-6" long, hold it against the inside or outside of the part. Hit the part with your hammer against the block.

It wont be perfect, but it will look pretty good in less then 5 minutes.

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Think of those parts as pans. Outside down on something flat and heavy. I used a 1x3x25 steel bar and clamped it down to a huge milling machine table. Did it a few times to creep up right to the corner/edge. Heavy clamping and beating with a 3 lb dead blow. Once face is flattened, work on edge. May need to go back and forth. Patience and persistence will get it done.
 
thinking how to straighten the 90 degree folds on the door...

View attachment 327283

I have put back straight edges like that with a Kurt vise (minimum) with handle and a few scrap pieces of wood and metal.
It's going to have to be touched up with filler. The paint job is not hard to duplicate. I can duplicate that easy when I have
a paint session for a clean flat finish and it turns out with bumps. The reason is that paint droplets dried prematurely before
touching the surface and the underlying solvent in the previous layer was not enough to level the stuff.
 








 
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