So I found this old Shear-in-the-weeds..... - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    Even for cutting 8' long .050 or .032 aluminum? I need to decide whether to fix or replace my 8' shear.
    E
    What's wrong with it?
    I do have a Niagara 6' 14ga shear that's good for thinner gauge materials. And it would be quicker and possibly neater than plasma if you were cutting narrow strips. I suppose thicker than 14ga would be less prone to warpage with plasma? Lots of variables.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dkmc View Post
    What's wrong with it?
    .
    It's an older mechanical machine of unknown parentage. The clutch is foot operated with a long treadle, I imagine I'd have to rig up an air operation at least to make it OSHA complaint with a covered pedal.
    There's a babbit bearing on one end of the eccentric shaft that needs repoured. The shaft looks pretty gaffed where it runs in the bearing so that needs fixed at the same time. Neither of those is insurmountable, except that I've never done babbit and don't have any of the equipment, plus Bubba welded the eccentric on that end to the shaft with a huge gob of weld because of what looks like a keyway problem, so now getting it apart to fix the babbit bearing means cutting it all apart, making a new 10' long shaft and eccentric and fixing it all correctly, not knowing of course what else will appear during disassembly that needs addressed. It worked fine as is when last used, but it's unknown how long until it's unworkable with the babbit pounding out a little with every stroke.
    I used it primarily for race car interior and body panels but haven't done any for a while so it's just sitting in storage without power. The plasma table would be handy to have on it's own, I but haven't seen the finish it leaves in thin sheet that is visible, and would expect it to need a lot of hand work to look good,
    Having the 8' shear made the 42" jump shear not a problem, because I could chop a sheet down in the 8' before making it smaller in the 42". Only having the 42" makes me use power tools to get a sheet to size before finishing so I'd like to have the big shear working correctly or have another way to make long cuts.

  3. #23
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  5. #24
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    If you could turn the shaft, could you press on or loctite on a thin wall bushing? I have Babbit, and got lucky on 2 jobs I did with it. If you'd really like to get it back working, post a pic of the piece with the Babbit. Or maybe replacing the babbit with a bronze bushing would be a better fix? I bet any of the CNC plasma mfgr's would be eager to show you the types of finish possible with the material you're working with,



    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    It's an older mechanical machine of unknown parentage. The clutch is foot operated with a long treadle, I imagine I'd have to rig up an air operation at least to make it OSHA complaint with a covered pedal.
    There's a babbit bearing on one end of the eccentric shaft that needs repoured. The shaft looks pretty gaffed where it runs in the bearing so that needs fixed at the same time. Neither of those is insurmountable, except that I've never done babbit and don't have any of the equipment, plus Bubba welded the eccentric on that end to the shaft with a huge gob of weld because of what looks like a keyway problem, so now getting it apart to fix the babbit bearing means cutting it all apart, making a new 10' long shaft and eccentric and fixing it all correctly, not knowing of course what else will appear during disassembly that needs addressed. It worked fine as is when last used, but it's unknown how long until it's unworkable with the babbit pounding out a little with every stroke.
    I used it primarily for race car interior and body panels but haven't done any for a while so it's just sitting in storage without power. The plasma table would be handy to have on it's own, I but haven't seen the finish it leaves in thin sheet that is visible, and would expect it to need a lot of hand work to look good,
    Having the 8' shear made the 42" jump shear not a problem, because I could chop a sheet down in the 8' before making it smaller in the 42". Only having the 42" makes me use power tools to get a sheet to size before finishing so I'd like to have the big shear working correctly or have another way to make long cuts.

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  7. #25
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    If you'd really like to get it back working, post a pic of the piece with the Babbit.
    Here's the good side.
    20190926_121648-1600.jpg


    Here's Bubba's weld repair

    20190926_121342-1600.jpg


    Here's the outside of the frame

    20190926_121403-1600.jpg


    Here's a closeup of the bearing. Sorry for the poor photo but you can see a chunk missing at the top

    111.jpg


    To get the shaft out without cutting it apart I'd have to completely disassemble the shear frame and that looks like a big job that I don't have the desire for..
    I've had the suggestion to dig out the Babbit and pour a new one around the shaft while in place. I've pictured lots of Bubba-esque means of repair, but I'm still open to new ideas.

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    OK, was thinking the Babbitt was in the big end of the connecting link. You 'could' pour it in place, but did you say you think the shaft is rough? Also you'd need to 'smoke up' the shaft with carbon from a sooty flame to keep the Babbitt from sticking to the shaft. That pretty much means taking the shaft out anyway, If the bore in the housing is machined, you could fit a bronze or oilite bushing. But sometimes when it's poured it can just be the as-cast cored hole. Seems like you have no choice but to disassemble.


    EDIT
    I found a thread on "znz zone" and the belief is a CNC plasma will work quite favorably in use as a shear. Even on thin metals, with good edge quality and no warping provided the settings are correct.
    Last edited by dkmc; 09-26-2019 at 11:54 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    Even for cutting 8' long .050 or .032 aluminum? I need to decide whether to fix or replace my 8' shear.
    E
    I don't do aluminum, so I can't comment on edge quality. If I was serious about cut quality, I'd go with high def plasma.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbent View Post
    I don't do aluminum, so I can't comment on edge quality. If I was serious about cut quality, I'd go with high def plasma.
    hy def doesn't improve quality on stuff less than 3/16, on 16 gauge it is less than air plasma. The cost of hy def plasma units and consumables is not trivial either. Add in controller and laser is cheaper if you are doing thin work only.
    Even with a hydef unit at work, shear is the better edge (1/4 -1"). None of our shears are gapped for thinner stock.

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    see cash who is on PM here Mattison 400S Grinder Just Arrived.

    he makes blades but his website knife maker.com is not coming up for me at the moment.

    babbit is no big deal just a few little tricks to learn like sooting the shaft getting your temps correct too hot you seperate the antimony from the babbitt which is bad.
    A good babbitt bearing should last a long time.

    Better go to town on it sandblast clean replace junk items get it painted and safety kitted an old unit should last.

  13. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street View Post
    see cash who is on PM here Mattison 400S Grinder Just Arrived.
    he makes blades but his website knife maker.com is not coming up for me at the moment.
    I emailed him already, but then decided to pass on the shear.


    Mud.......
    Your shear looks to be about the same age as my 6' 14ga Niagara No. 272. What model is yours and what capacity? Have you ever used it at or near rated capacity? On the left side front corner of the table on my machine, it's stamped: Mfgr Date 1916 and Capacity Steel 14ga. Check that area on your shear.

    These old open legged shears seem to be designed to be bolted down to a concrete floor to prevent twisting of the bed and frame. On the right side of mine, someone managed to break the casting where the drive shaft bearing is located. It's been welded and reinforced with plates in that area. I'm not keen on bolting it down, which would be an easier thing to do.
    But I have been thinking about bolting it to a frame made from 4" I beam to stiffen up the legs and minimize twist. An added benefit to the frame, is it would also make the thing a lot easier to move around with a forklift. As it is, it's a top heavy PITA to move safely, Any thoughts on this idea?

  14. #31
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    Any thoughts on this idea?
    As long as I've had it, we've never found any ID on it. There might be something buried under paint. I'll take another look. Soon. As soon as I have nothing else to do. And I'm working in that building.

    I cut .065' 4130N plate with it, I suppose that's about as difficult as 14ga mild steel, it seemed like that was about the heaviest I should cut especially with that bearing limping along.

    I a made frame for under my W&S #3 like that. I used 2" X 4" solid 1018 bar for the main frame laterals with leveling screws built in, and tubing crossmembers. I intended to weld loops on top to use for fork pockets but haven't yet. I'm going to do that real soon too... In the meantime, the frame makes it real easy to move it around with forklift or pallet jack which is not true without the frame. The pockets would make it much more secure for irregular ground. Those lathes are meant to be bolted to the floor for proper alignment and rigidity and at one time I did. The frame makes it much better than without the frame, really no different that when bolted down as far as I could tell..

  15. #32
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    Maybe slightly smaller solid bar stock wouldn't be much different in price than I beam? Added mass can't be bad?


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