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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattiJ View Post
    If you want to dig deeper to legal bullshit look for federal regulation 29 CFR 1910.253 - Oxygen-fuel gas welding and cutting: "Hose for oxy-fuel gas service shall comply with the Specification for Rubber Welding Hose, 1958, Compressed Gas Association and Rubber Manufacturers Association, which is incorporated by reference as specified in § 1910.6."
    The Tygon hoses I bought are imprinted down one side with all of the specifications they are in compliance with. It's impressive looking but hard to read. If anyone cares enough I'll go peer at it again. But these hoses are indeed lighter and more flexible.

    metalmagpie

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post
    The Tygon hoses I bought are imprinted down one side with all of the specifications they are in compliance with. It's impressive looking but hard to read. If anyone cares enough I'll go peer at it again. But these hoses are indeed lighter and more flexible.

    metalmagpie
    Update as of yet ?

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Update as of yet ?
    Well, the machine is up and cutting and following templates just fine. The biggest problem I had with setup was I was setting it up dead vertical but the level I was using was off. Grrr. That cost me at least 3 work days.

    The Tygon hoses are really light and much more flexible than rubber hoses. They don't come as oxygen or acetylene hoses, of course - I had to pick up a crimper and a bunch of ferrules and hose ends and make up my own.

    Before I start making my parts (from 2-1/2" thick plate) I wanted to get the feel of cutting heavy plate. I have about a square foot of 2.75" thick plate so I've been running tests on it today, varying tip height, preheat pressures, cutting oxygen pressures and cutting speed. I've gotten better at it, but I can't seem to get rid of waviness and roughness in the lines left in the cut.

    This is 2-3/4" thick top to bottom, remember.



    See how the lines curve at the bottom and the shadows between ridges deepen? I need to fix this. When I run the torch in free air the cutting oxygen stream is beautiful, at least six inches long and clean as a whistle. I'm using a brand new tip.

    Anyone got any ideas of things to try?

    metalmagpie

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    Were you traveling LtoR or RtoL in that photo?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    Were you traveling LtoR or RtoL in that photo?
    Left to right.

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    Hi-speed (100 psi pressure) O2 tips, I wrote about them before.
    Also, I watched a neighbor make a "first pass" on his machine, with just the pre-heat flames.
    He does this to clean the cut line, so he can run faster, uses less O2, and less top corner rounding.

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    I think it looks pretty good for 2.5". It's not going to look like a waterjet.The slight forward curve at the bottom says your speed is good. Is it square top to bottom? If you can get divergent bore machine torch tips for your torch that might improve the appearance a little. What brand torch are you using? I found on large stuff going up one size over recommended on the tip sometimes improved the cut and also allowed me to reduce the preheat flame.

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  9. #28
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    As I posted before:
    Web Page Not Found : Page Not Available


    And yes, you'll run 100 psi oxygen (don't worry about it)

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Hi-speed (100 psi pressure) O2 tips, I wrote about them before.
    Also, I watched a neighbor make a "first pass" on his machine, with just the pre-heat flames. He does this to clean the cut line, so he can run faster, uses less O2, and less top corner rounding.
    The Koike link you posted doesn't work for me. On my most recent cut, I increased my cutting oxygen pressure from 45 psi to 80 psi. This made a pretty big difference. The drag lines are now much straighter. My cutting table had an issue where molten slag was bouncing off the grating and accumulating on the bottom of the part. So ignore the very bottom, also the very left hand side. The arrow points up, movement again is left to right.

    Now I'm worrying about the depth of the ridges. Maybe I'll make another stylus with fine knurling and try it instead of the one I'm using now, which has coarse knurls. Anyway, here's a picture of my latest cut:



    Top edge is nice and square. The bottom edge got affected some by the slag pileup as I mentioned above. But previous cuts have yielded square bottom corners too.

    metalmagpie

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    I think it looks pretty good for 2.5". It's not going to look like a waterjet.The slight forward curve at the bottom says your speed is good. Is it square top to bottom? If you can get divergent bore machine torch tips for your torch that might improve the appearance a little. What brand torch are you using? I found on large stuff going up one size over recommended on the tip sometimes improved the cut and also allowed me to reduce the preheat flame.
    I'm using a Victor 3-hose machine torch with oxygen and propane. Tip is GPN-3, about correct for the thickness of the plate. I'd happily try a GPN-4 but I don't have a good one. My preheat flame is actually pretty small.

    metalmagpie

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    I bolted the mast of my machine to the wall, that dampened the shake of the arms as they moved and cleaned up the cut somewhat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post
    The Koike link you posted doesn't work for me. On my most recent cut, I increased my cutting oxygen pressure from 45 psi to 80 psi. This made a pretty big difference. The drag lines are now much straighter. My cutting table had an issue where molten slag was bouncing off the grating and accumulating on the bottom of the part. So ignore the very bottom, also the very left hand side. The arrow points up, movement again is left to right.

    Now I'm worrying about the depth of the ridges. Maybe I'll make another stylus with fine knurling and try it instead of the one I'm using now, which has coarse knurls. Anyway, here's a picture of my latest cut:



    Top edge is nice and square. The bottom edge got affected some by the slag pileup as I mentioned above. But previous cuts have yielded square bottom corners too.



    metalmagpie
    I'm sure you can google out what you need from that (now dead) linky.
    80 psi on a normal tip is not the same as 100 psi on those Koike hi-speed tips.

    Smaller hole size, they will use less oxygen (at 100 psi) than your regular tip at lower pressure.

    BTW what are you making from such thick plate, and that cut edge finish looks very good as
    it stands.
    Last edited by digger doug; 01-03-2021 at 05:32 PM.

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    Maybe not relevant, and based off of no knowledge of this machine, but:

    Is there any sort of viscous strut or linkage that could be added? Assuming you are manually tracing and that feed rate may be hard to control. Could also help with hose tug. Or could be a complete garbage idea.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    80 psi on a normal tip is not the same as 100 psi on those Koike hi-speed tips.
    Koike tips don't fit Victor machine torches!

    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    BTW what are you making from such thick plate, and that cut edge finish looks very good as it stands.
    I have it in mind to flame cut "flat face" dies for my Hossfeld bender. For most purposes the cut I showed above would work fine. But I'm afraid the cut is too rough for my particular use.

    I have never had trouble with a torch like this. I think I'm about to give up on this tip and try a bigger one or even go to another torch altogether. I have at least one Airco machine torch. It may not have 3 cutting hoses, but I have lots and lots of Airco tips.

    metalmagpie

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post
    Koike tips don't fit Victor machine torches!



    I have it in mind to flame cut "flat face" dies for my Hossfeld bender. For most purposes the cut I showed above would work fine. But I'm afraid the cut is too rough for my particular use.

    I have never had trouble with a torch like this. I think I'm about to give up on this tip and try a bigger one or even go to another torch altogether. I have at least one Airco machine torch. It may not have 3 cutting hoses, but I have lots and lots of Airco tips.

    metalmagpie
    ...and then, with the airco torch, you can use those high speed tips.

    I thought you snagged one of the Ebay $50 Airco/Concoa/Koike machine torches I posted about ?
    Still selling them.
    Buy (2) at one time, save on the shipping:
    Koike Style Oxygen / Acetylene and Propane Machine Torch w/ Hose Kit | eBay
    When you cut off those short hoses, remember they are an oddball Chinese size/thread, so be careful to re-use them. They will accept your hose, just the torch and outlet of the valve block are "non-standard".
    The inlet fittings at the valve block are standard "American".

    I would concentrate on making a square cut, and you can make 2 pieces to stack.
    Tack weld them together, and then belt sand the finish you want (as One piece).

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    ...and then, with the Airco torch, you can use those high speed tips.
    I ordered a Koike divergent tip. I will try it when it is delivered. Thanks for the tip. Somehow I had missed your earlier postings about those. Incidentally, I paid less for my 3-hose Airco machine torch than those knockoffs cost.

    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    I would concentrate on making a square cut, and you can make 2 pieces to stack. Tack weld them together, and then belt sand the finish you want (as One piece).
    That's great advice except I'm making custom parts each with its own radius, no two alike. It's a set of bending dies for a Hossfeld bender. I burned a lot of calories on the templates, having had them waterjet for extreme accuracy. I may belt sand the parts slightly but I'm not going to go overboard because I don't want to make the curved edges inaccurate.

    metalmagpie

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post


    That's great advice except I'm making custom parts each with its own radius, no two alike. It's a set of bending dies for a Hossfeld bender. I burned a lot of calories on the templates, having had them waterjet for extreme accuracy. I may belt sand the parts slightly but I'm not going to go overboard because I don't want to make the curved edges inaccurate.

    metalmagpie
    Yes, I understand exactly what your making.
    You did make a template for the machine's roller to follow ?
    That template can make qty (2) parts identical.
    so make them from 1" thick material, and stack them up.

  19. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Yes, I understand exactly what your making.
    You did make a template for the machine's roller to follow ?
    That template can make qty (2) parts identical.
    so make them from 1" thick material, and stack them up.
    I did make templates. Yes, I could cut my shapes from 1" plate and stack them. But I already have the 2.5" plate I need. I'm confident I will get this machine (a Heath/Linde pattern cutter) dialed in and then I'll cut my parts.

    I appreciate your help, DD.

    metalmagpie


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