"Sticking 7018 rods"

Sophiedoc · Jul 4, 2006

Over the years I have stick welded items needing high tensile strength rods using an AC old Lincoln. On starting with a new rod they start fine but if you stop the puddle you need to scratch the end or "jab" it into the work to restart.Why is this worse with this rod and are there any other solutions-thanks.

pm · Jul 4, 2006

my understanding of this is some rods with heavier flux can develop a little coating of slag covering the tip.
pretty often with 7018 if I need to restart I will tap tap the rod onto concrete or ongrounded surface to break the slag away , esp. if working in an area where a clean start is important and excess arcing and spatter adjacent to the weld would be objectionable.

good luck

Joe Henderson · Jul 4, 2006

7018 is a good DC rod but the iron powder coating makes it a little difficult to restart. You can get Messer MG80 rods that are 80,000lbs tensle strength that start easy and weld good. You need to run them a little hotter than the 7018's tho.

JL Sargent · Jul 4, 2006

No real way around that with 7018. I might help if you can run the rod a little hotter. You might make sure that ground is good, etc. I just snap the rod into the previous layed weld and move on with it.

plastikosmd · Jul 4, 2006

i had same problem. much better if you switch to 7018AC rod. i am not a welding expert and dont know the science behind it but was much easier to start/strike the AC rod on AC machine. turned a frustrating situation back into fun again
scott

bob308 · Jul 4, 2006

7018 must by dry or it will stick. now for the hard restart it has a lime coating that forms over the end of the rod and must be broken to get an arc again some times we used to drag it over an old file or on the floor to break the coating. some times if you are done you give the rod a quick flip it shakes the coating off before it hardens.

Dr. Rob · Jul 5, 2006

Am I missing something? It has been my understanding that 7018 is a DC-only rod. It does not start on AC, at all.

Someone please clarify.

Meantime I'm gonna go look at the box. (or am I thinking of 7016?)

s7hss · Jul 5, 2006

With lo-hydrogen electrodes, the electrode burns back inside the flux. Have to break off the flux upon restarting. That's just the way they behave, can't really tell you why. Think with 6010 or 6011, the rod doesn't recede inside the flux to the same extent.

I have about 300 pounds of 8018 and 9018 which runs on either DC or AC. Better penetration, less spatter and smoother running on DC-, though. Have run 7018 successfully as well on AC, don't think those rods were DC-only. AC seems to take more heat, more spatter, rougher arc, but will work.

AC is all I got, so I learn to play it.

boozer · Jul 6, 2006

Ive welded pipe for 6 years with 7018, and 8018s The slag is a given problem, and there is no way around it, Most of the time you can just snap it off with your thumb,(wearing gloves of coarse, or what i always did is have something non conductive on the bench, (a rock, brick, etc.) just to give the rod a light tap on, When i restart my weld i would alway lightly drag the arc about a 1/2" infront of the weld, then long arc it back to the weld, and start welding. this will also help you from getting the perosity at the starts of your welds.

rayman · Jul 7, 2006

7018 is an excellent DC rod for X-Ray quality jobs. An AC version of is available (7018AC). If you don't need the 7018 qualities, then go for 7014 which will do really well for you on AC. I used lots of it in a previous job and it run really nice. Just strike it with a quick match strike meathod and away you go.

Sophiedoc · Jul 7, 2006

Thanks everyone for the help and explanations.I've used the 7014 which starts much better but I don't think I like the welds as well.

ClintJ · Jul 10, 2006

This is just a thought but one of the best ways to run 7018 is to use highfrequency. I have a hard time useing without it.

Dr. Rob · Jul 10, 2006

"An AC version of is available (7018AC)"

Ah, that explains it. I did go check the box on ESABs 7018; they do specify it as a DC + rod.

boozer · Jul 10, 2006

AC is the last choice i would want to run any thing, accept alum. or if im having problems with acr blow. but any 7018 is good for all of them. AC DC+ and DC-
EXX10 DC+ (DC reverse or DCRP) electrode positive.
EXX11 AC or DC- (DC straight or DCSP) electrode negative.
EXX12 AC or DC-
EXX13 AC, DC- or DC+
EXX14 AC, DC- or DC+
EXX15 DC+
EXX16 AC or DC+
EXX18 AC, DC- or DC+
EXX20 AC ,DC- or DC+
EXX24 AC, DC- or DC+
EXX27 AC, DC- or DC+
EXX28 AC or DC+

boilermaker154 · Jul 10, 2006

i agree with boozer,alum. is the only thing i run a/c. 7018 is an exellent rod,the lo-hydro flux creates a great shield and thus a good looking bead and penetration.the flux hardening over the end is just a characteristic of the rod you have to live with.keep something near to scrap the end before re-starts. be careful not to break off too much flux or it will take a few seconds for the arc to steady and you will get porosity and a shi**ty looking start or tie in.if its a critical start or tie in i start with a new rod each time.also not aware that 7018 has iron powder in the flux,i know 7024 and a few other jet welds do but there for flat welds only and designed that way so the flux as it burns and shields actually ads to the bead! i'm taking a stainless test today,i'll have to ask the weld tech about it.

JoeFin · Jan 12, 2008

s7hss said:
With lo-hydrogen electrodes, the electrode burns back inside the flux. Have to break off the flux upon restarting. That's just the way they behave, can't really tell you why.

That is the way 7018 is supposed to behave.

Actually the burn back, (the amount the electrode burns up into the flux sheath) is a good indicator if you are using the right amount of amps, (heat). I set mine to burn back about 3/32 – 1/8”. Like others have mentioned here, before restarting I just wipe the flux even with the electrode using a gloved finger.

11echo · Feb 21, 2008

I just a hobbyist welder and have an AC buzz box. I understand a DC unit is the way to go, but on my budget I'm luck to have an AC unit! As of late 7018 has been "forced" on me and I hate it! …Yes I'm sure it has its place in the world ...probably in DC use, but for me it's been a nightmare! I LOVE 7024!!! I try to use it for most of my needs, but as of late I can't find it at the local stores! Yes the weld shop is willing to sell me some ...in 50 pound boxes! All I need is 1 or 5 pounds at a time. SO I was "forced" to use 7018! First problem was the store sold me DC rod! The AC rod is different stuff and is marked 7018AC. Next problem I ran across it the initial arc goes well, but IF you stop for any reason trying to re-start again is a major pain!! And comparing the two rods together 7024 is way easier to run then 7018 ...at least in my world! ...SO my take, try to get 7024 if you can!!! My $0.02 anyway, good luck!

draggin61 · Feb 21, 2008

the easiest way I have seen to deal with the hard restart is to keep a block of wood or an old piece of leather handy. As soon as you stop the arc push the end of the rod into the wood or leather for a second. It will restart like a new rod. Must stick it on wood or leather immediately after the arc stops. Really works.
Brian

Benesesso · Feb 25, 2008

>"And comparing the two rods together 7024 is way easier to run then 7018"<

I like 7024 too, but in 3/32", not 1/8" With all that iron in the flux a 1/8" stick is FAT. Just crank up the amps and shove the stick into the joint, and you're welding. Let the bead cool and the flux pops off easily. But it's no good for vertical and overhead--too much like water. The welds aren't as tough as a good 7018 weld, but that doesn't bother me.

The burnback of the metal inside the flux is called the volcano effect, or something like that.

farmersamm · Feb 29, 2008

I run a crackerbox like you do. Most of the time I use 6011 for uphill and out of position stuff, and 6013 the rest of the time. Only use 7018 when I'm not sure of the metal I'm working with, or I know it's not mild steel.

7018ac works well. Hard to restart. Just pop it on the steel, and there she goes. Slag just rolls offa it when it cools. Beautiful thing to see.

AC gets a bad rap. It doesn't seem to put out a really nice looking weld because of the 60hz cycle. But it gets the job done at a reasonable price. I farm for a living, and I'm not a professional welder. I repair, and build, farm equipment. That ol' Lincoln has made it possible to do some really amazing things. Hang in there, you'll learn how your machine handles the rod, and how to compensate for it.

BTW, I did recently purchase a Lincoln Ranger GTX. Had really bad ice storm down here a while back, and needed a generator stout enough to power 2 houses. Was a good excuse anyhow

. Haven't got around to welding with it yet. Damn thing (brand new) came without leads. Another 2 C notes. Doggone folks. On the upside, it looks damn good sittin' out there in the yard:p. Everybody tells me I'm gonna love it when I finally get around to buyin' the leads. 100 percent duty cycle............Woof, Woof, Woof!!!! Gonna have to float a loan to buy gas to run the thing

"Sticking 7018 rods"

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